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Post by northumbria on Aug 1, 2019 9:11:36 GMT
hi. We have recently bought a 69 p5b, it came with a spare alternator regulator. The car is standard except had been fitted in its early life with air conditioning.
The ignition warning light flashes almost like an indicator light, very regularly, the ammeter also deflects at same time, normally when running over approx 1500 rpm. If you put headlamps on then it stops. We have had the alternator tested on a bench with the regulator and 2 relays in circuit, all works ok and the test bed warning light doesn’t flash. The alternator brushes were also renewed, we have also bought new regulator and both relays from Wadhams. All test the same when on the test bed and have same issue on the car.
Im relying on the auto electric company who tested the alternator to be doing that correctly, I watched it on their test bed, ran for 20 minutes with a long spell at 2000 rpm, with varying loads from very low to high with no problem. They have been repairing alternators for over 30 years.
Anyone had a similar problem? Any suggestions? Not sure whether to bite the bullet and change to an alternator with built in regulator. The car is in Newcastle upon Tyne.
Also so looking to replace points and condenser with electronic ignition, I did see somewhere a recommendation for a particular petronix unit, as there are 2 options and one is better than the other petronix unit. Anyone know the part number?
Thanks phil.
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Post by Phil Nottingham on Aug 1, 2019 17:07:40 GMT
Check all connections especially the earths on the O/s inner wing. A faulty 3AW "can" will give this effect so try another, Also loose ignition warning light bulb.
A leaking windscreen seal can cause havoc to the bus-bars and bullets under the o/s dash
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Post by northumbria on Aug 1, 2019 18:47:02 GMT
Hi. Replaced 3aw with new. It’s such a regular flash that you could imagine it as connected to flasher unit.
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Post by northumbria on Aug 1, 2019 18:48:13 GMT
I’ll have a look at connections under dash, do you remove dash top to get to them?
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Post by northumbria on Aug 1, 2019 18:53:46 GMT
Seen another one of your posts where you explained location of busbar. “Try a different fuse some look good but still U/s otherwise Bad connection on fuse box Lucars/fuse holders usually OR corroded bullets (from leaking screen )under n/s A panel trim (stuffed high up in between inner/out panels. You have to remove A panel kick trim and sometimes parcel shelf side trim higher up No other fuses unless PO has messed up wiring or some dislodged connections on main battery Lucar busbar under dash - not usual unless someone has been under there recently - no dash dismantling necessary here as just can be seen when under dash black covered cardboard trim been removed Read more: roverp5.proboards.com/thread/2373/fuse-location#ixzz5vNROpZMK
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Post by Phil Nottingham on Aug 2, 2019 18:07:07 GMT
The connexions you need to look at are in between the parcel shelf and the bottom dash rail that holds the instrument pod. Just behind the the steering column. If you are a not a contortionist, small, wiry and double jointed its going to be hard work without removing the entire dash by piece by piece dismantling
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Post by johnwp5bcoupe on Aug 2, 2019 18:31:57 GMT
The connexions you need to look at are in between the parcel shelf and the bottom dash rail that holds the instrument pod. Just behind the the steering column. If you are a not a contortionist, small, wiry and double jointed its going to be hard work without removing the entire dash by piece by piece dismantling They couldn't have thought of a better place Phil
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Post by Brendan69 on Aug 11, 2019 17:23:32 GMT
I have a similar issue just occurred on mine albeit my red ignition light stays on all the time with no flashing.
Its just started doing it. Car starts up perfectly, runs perfectly albeit im not using any electrical items if I can help it and not using it at night. Car started yesterday after a 4 week park up ( C-Tek ) connected all the time and she ran up ok with no red light on at all.
Started car this morning, drover her 40 miles to Newbury, red light came on after 30 miles and stayed on till I stopped and parked up at 0830am. Started car at 2pm, no red light on. Drove approx. 2 miles and the red light came back on and stayed on all the way back home.
Car continues to drive fine, does not stall at junctions or traffic lights and ticks over fine. Alternator looks like it could be original and car only has 63k miles original on the clock. No evidence in the cars detailed file of a new Alternator ever being fitted either.
Im thinking brushes worn??? or maybe Alternator voltage regulator unit??? I have recently fitted a new Lucas sport coil from JRW in place of the intermotor item which was on my car. Car now turns over a lot faster with the lucas coil as opposed to the intermotor coil.
Im thinking the following, Put old coil back on and see if the red light still comes back on, if it does get my Alternator refurbished and try again.
All thoughts appreciated albeit I do think its a simple issue and not something bad. No signs or smells of burning/smoke such as fire etc, all is fine and cars runs as she should except for this d**n red light permanently on after car has been driven for a good 20-30 miles.
Cheers in advance
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Post by johnwp5bcoupe on Aug 12, 2019 7:55:56 GMT
I have a similar issue just occurred on mine albeit my red ignition light stays on all the time with no flashing. If it is a standard Alternator the 3AW contacts are dirty they can be cleaned and adjusted but best to change the 3AW! there are solid state ones available.
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Post by Brendan69 on Aug 12, 2019 16:57:31 GMT
Excuse my lack of knowledge but what is the 3AW? ? Cheers
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Post by johnwp5bcoupe on Aug 12, 2019 17:47:37 GMT
It's the silver can beside the 4TR and below the 6RA
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Post by Brendan69 on Aug 12, 2019 18:34:01 GMT
Cheers John, that's a great picture showing it all. Yours are the same as mine in terms of the colour of the 4TR box ( RED ) which mine it too. Is your car a later model too??? 72/73 car???
Looks like they are all relatively easy to change too with care applied and im guessing with the battery terminal off on one side??
I just been on JRW site to look and saw it all on there albeit their 4TR box is black.
Regarding alternator brushes 11ac, it asks if we want flat or curved type brushes?? so are these age related to the cars 67-73???
I plan to change the brushes, 3AW and 6RA. ( both of mine look old and original ) too as does my Alternator.
One thing I will ask is would my recent change from an intermotor coil to a Lucas sport coil ( JRW ) supplied be a possible cause of my red light now coming on??? just wondering that's all. BTW, car electrics is my weak point and ive always kept away from them. LOL
Cheers again, Brendan
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Post by johnwp5bcoupe on Aug 12, 2019 20:12:19 GMT
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Post by Phil Nottingham on Aug 12, 2019 20:52:22 GMT
The Lucas exchange 4TRs are all black - just make sure you get the 4 terminal version not the 3 otherwise wiring alterations will be needed
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Post by Brendan69 on Aug 12, 2019 21:30:01 GMT
Cheers John again, interesting read was that and I hope it doesn't mean more trouble for mine. LOL.
Phil: mine is exactly the same type as Johns in the picture he put up ( red ) and deffo a 4 terminal item. I just wish I knew in advance weather my alternator brushes were flat or curved items before I take it off. JRW certainly like to confuse us don't they!! LOL.
Regards,
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Post by Phil Nottingham on Aug 13, 2019 5:21:39 GMT
The brush holder just unscrews - the brushes are usually flat. One always wears more so swapping them over gives a little more life. The 2 field wires just unplug from it
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Post by johnwp5bcoupe on Aug 13, 2019 7:52:20 GMT
As Phil says Flat I haven't seen any curved ones
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Post by Brendan69 on Aug 14, 2019 9:51:03 GMT
Cheers Phil & John, I will place an order with JRW today for the items. Just gonna change them all.
Regards,
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Post by johnwp5bcoupe on Aug 14, 2019 12:01:56 GMT
I would doubt your brushes have had it or your 4TR Mr Wadham must love you
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Post by Warwick on Aug 14, 2019 13:07:38 GMT
Excuse my lack of knowledge but what is the 3AW? ? Cheers It's a radio station in Melbourne.
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Post by johnwp5bcoupe on Aug 14, 2019 14:28:56 GMT
Excuse my lack of knowledge but what is the 3AW? ? Cheers It's a radio station in Melbourne. Warwick you really must keep off those Stubbies
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Post by Brendan69 on Aug 15, 2019 19:26:13 GMT
Well John, I pulled my alternator yesterday and took the brushes out and one of them has about 5mm left on it of carbon and the other has about 10mm left on it of carbon so im hoping this is the problem.
Yes Mr JRW must love me but at least I have all new bits in a box for the future I suppose. I noticed an OEM 3AW on ebay for £69.99!!!!! but settled for the newer solid state item from JRW instead and a 6RA relay.
Regarding the brushes JRW advertises, really wish he would upgrade his listings and be a tad more specific when describing parts or alternate parts. Flat or curved brushes for example.
I took another look at my order status today which was still pending ( slow they are IMHOP ) and I think I may have ordered the flat ones and need the U shaped ones. The flat and U shape im guessing relates to the electrical connector and not the actual carbon brush which I wish JRW would highlight so I quickly rang them and got the " helpful lady " on the phone and amended my order for a U shaped set which I hope are the right ones. Anyhow, I have bought a backup pair off ebay for £5 which are original 11ac type and match what I have so yeah maybe ive spent £131 I didn't really need to spend but its only money and you cannot take it with you.
Its been many years since ive had to do this sort of thing and I seem to remember changing a pair of brushes on an old car I once owned and she was fine after that so hoping the same with the P5B too. We shall see.
Weather for this weekend is supposed to be rubbish now so both planned car shows will be off I think and I doubt my bits from JRW will have arrived anyway.
Cheers
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Post by johnwp5bcoupe on Aug 15, 2019 20:02:46 GMT
The brushes will not be your problem Brendan, low yes but would still work! at least you know now they are ok
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Post by Brendan69 on Aug 16, 2019 8:56:24 GMT
Ok John, cheers, Process of ilimination i'll go through which is why I bought all the bits related to that area apart from a new alternator that is.
JRW has one albeit is exchange again but I can get my own item refurbished locally in Swindon which is what i'll probably do if I have to.
Regards,
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Post by Brendan69 on Aug 17, 2019 15:21:29 GMT
UPDATE: Ive fitted a new pair of carbon brushes today in my Alternator. Run the car up on the driveway for 20 mins, NO RED LIGHT on. Took her for a 35 miles drive and to put some fuel in her and STILL NO RED LIGHT on so fingers crossed she is cured and ive maybe wasted £131 at JRW's!! LOL. In a way im hoping I have but if it does come back on which I expected it to do BUT IT HASNT then im happy and i'll just add the new bits to my special P5B spares box of bits.
One thing I did notice though was she was a lot more responsive and the indicators flashed quicker. I also drove her with headlights on, radio on, heater on ( cold ) just to load up the system and all was fine.
Cheers
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