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Post by Jens Munk on Nov 13, 2019 16:57:11 GMT
Unrelated to the TRE's it looks like you have additional inner wing protectors. Is that right? If so, where did you get them?
I would really like to have some to protect the "mud-traps".
I'm making slow progress on my project to replace all the radius arm bushings, ball joint and tie rod end boots on my P5. I finally got the bottom ball joint free (see before and after pictures below-before is the bottom one) on the left front suspension and am now trying to find universal urethane boots and bushings for them. A company called Energy Suspension seems the best option to look at- does anyone have other information on polyurethane boots???
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Post by Ken Nelson on Nov 13, 2019 19:37:42 GMT
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Post by Jens Munk on Nov 14, 2019 7:44:44 GMT
Thanks for the tip. I will definitely get some of those. The wheel arches in cars of that era are just notorious mud and hence rust traps. The front lower corner of the rear wings on my P5B are bad, and this is solely due to mud and moisture being trapped here. The wheel arch is open all the way to the tail lights and I am also aware that the sides of the boot needs attention.
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Post by enigmas on Nov 14, 2019 8:45:27 GMT
I've been watching and reading this thread and considering some options. My main discontent rests with the repro rubbish boots available for the lower main balljoint on the front suspension of my MK3 (also the same as the P5B ball joint.) I must have replaced 3 to 4 over the years and am truly getting sick of the exercise! So after checking the dimensions of a spare front lower ball joint I've ordered a couple of 'boots' from Bulgaria...which apparently is the go to place for these items. Boots* I omit the metal cap usually found underneath the grease boot on the ball joint as I've found that it tends to stress the convolutions of the repro boots. They usually tear (with regularity) along the convolutions after a short period of use. * The replacement boot referenced above will also be fitted without the 'metal cap'.
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Post by 3litrekiwi on Nov 14, 2019 9:45:51 GMT
Hi Vince
This is a job I have not got to yet on my Mk III. Thanks for the heads up, I have a new set of rubber boots waiting to go in. Perhaps I will look into the Bulgarian option.
cheers
Martin
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Post by Ken Nelson on Nov 14, 2019 22:46:31 GMT
I finally received my TRE boots from Polyboot, sized 19x40x32 mm. Pictures below. The small hole size is good with the original metal cap, but slightly big without it. The big hole fits, but doesn't grip the inner lip of the TRE tightly-it could be tightened some with a wire tie, but really should be slightly smaller I think. In comparing everything I think perhaps the closest size from Polyboots would be 16x37x32 mm and fitted without the original metal cap, so I will order a set of these. I haven't checked the ball joint size yet (will do soon) but I note in the companies information that polyurethane seems stronger than silicone which is what the picture enigma posted shows.
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Post by enigmas on Nov 15, 2019 6:43:31 GMT
As long as they're (repro boots) are not made of rubber Ken or whatever the compound is that passes for rubber! From my experiences...the grease eats them, the chemical composition is crappy and they'll fatigue virtually in front of your eyes!
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Post by Ken Nelson on Nov 16, 2019 21:05:13 GMT
Amen to that. Today's repro rubber bits are not made to last more than 1-2 years it seems. I have removed my ball joints now and measured them as best I could. I ordered a Polyboots 18x47x30mm polyurethane boot for the Bottom Balljoint and a Top Balljoint boot from "dmemltd" on eBay, sized 27x46x32 mm. For the Track Rod Ends I ordered 6 Polyboots sized 16x37x32 mm. I'll report later on how these work, although shipping from Bulgaria takes 2-3 weeks or so.
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Post by Phil Nottingham on Nov 16, 2019 22:13:03 GMT
Just think on the positive side - if these will last as long as OEM they will outlast you! We have to keep the consumerism drive going forward to maintain full employment of the masses.
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Post by djm16 on Nov 17, 2019 12:42:57 GMT
Silicon boots on the P5 (clear, filled with grease). These are the boots I used on my P4
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Post by Ken Nelson on Nov 17, 2019 18:00:36 GMT
Thanks Phil, employment for all is a good plan indeed. Djm, your boots fit well-I hope the ones I ordered will look as good. I also purchased a used 1971 LHD Volvo 164 Power Steering Box on eBay and will ultimately plan to convert my leaky Rover PS box over to it as mentioned in the forum and by Peter Van De Velde.
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Post by lagain on Nov 25, 2019 19:03:03 GMT
Looking in my service book I saw that the last time I replaced my steering ball joints was in 2003, since when they have steered me about 50000 miles. They were Quinten Hazel that I either purchsed through the club or from Roverpart. I also bought a spare set which I looked at every time I opened my wardrobe. Having followed this thread I thought, why not put them on, and so I did today. There was not much wrong with the old ones which I shall keep. Unfortunately I do not have a right hand thread for the track rod adjusting ball joints, so have had to leave them at the moment and they seem OK. The secret with the QH is to keep them well greased, they have grease nipples. Roverpart still have the QH ones, which from reading these threads are probably better than some and hears the link ! www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ROVER-P5-P5B-OUTER-TRACK-ROD-END-O-E-UNIPART-NOS/153440913944?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649
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Post by Ken Nelson on Nov 30, 2019 18:17:56 GMT
My Bulgarian Polyboots for the tie rod ends arrived and the fit seems excellent to go on without the metal cap. They are 16x37x32 mm, pictured below. Attachments:
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Post by enigmas on Dec 3, 2019 5:03:09 GMT
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Post by Sam Bee on Dec 3, 2019 20:50:22 GMT
Looks excellent. Just to be clear, your order was for 20 45 30?
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Post by enigmas on Dec 3, 2019 22:47:57 GMT
Yes Sam...and as the illustrations shown below. (Boot for the large bottom lower front suspension ball joint)
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Post by Ken Nelson on Dec 3, 2019 22:50:37 GMT
That boot looks like an excellent fit, but when the stub axle/swivel link is turning through about 90º swivel, isn't the metal cap from the original boot in place to be sure that the top of the boot doesn't catch and twist the boot enough to possibly tear it? I'm new to this front suspension stuff, so I'd love some input on that cap's function.
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Post by enigmas on Dec 3, 2019 23:08:27 GMT
Ken both top and bottom OEM boots have a hole in the top with a metal washer vulcanised to the inside surface. The weird OEM spacer that fits in the OEM boot is there to hold the boot up and provide a 'sort of' seal to exclude 'detritus' entering the boot and hence the ball joint internals. It's not exactly a hermetic seal but it worked. It also allowed the boot to swivel and not tear when the wheels were turned.
The Bulgarian Boot above fits firmly at the base of the joint but the top boot hole is not so tight that it will bind or tear when the swivel turns. So do not fit it with the OEM insert (as it has no function with this boot and will likely only damage it internally. Lightly grease/lubricate the swivel pin where it exits the top boot hole.
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Post by Ken Nelson on Dec 4, 2019 14:20:20 GMT
Thanks enigmas.
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