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Post by Tim Goddard on Feb 1, 2020 11:55:32 GMT
Not sure if this has been covered before, but what is the concencious on converting to Waterless coolant?
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Post by ray on Feb 1, 2020 13:56:57 GMT
Tim,
Go to the home screen and click on search, (you can see it now in the red bar above) then entre "Waterless coolant" you'll get a whole string!
Cheers Ray
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Post by Tim Goddard on Feb 1, 2020 16:21:08 GMT
Tim, Go to the home screen and click on search, (you can see it now in the red bar above) then entre "Waterless coolant" you'll get a whole string! Cheers Ray Thanks Ray.
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Post by Brendan69 on Feb 1, 2020 16:34:05 GMT
I know of 3 pals who have used this stuff now and they all swear by it. All 3 cars are nice cars too, Aston Martin, Lambo and a 911 porker.
I have an agent close to me who does it and i may have it put in my Rover next time its due its coolant change which wont be until next year now as ive just done it all with fresh.
Regards,
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Post by enigmas on Feb 1, 2020 23:56:47 GMT
Waterless Coolant! I know of 3 pals who have used this stuff now and they all swear by it. All 3 cars are nice cars too, Aston Martin, Lambo and a 911 porker. Regards, Sadly Brendan I don't mix in such refined company. Jay Leno promotes wateless coolant and uses it in his fleet of historic, vintage and classic cars...but then again he is a multi millionaire with a specialised team of mechanics and craftsmen looking after, restoring and conserving his collection. I believe he lives in California and considering the year around temperatures there after a recent trip I wouldn't want the product in my 2 classic cars (both run alloy V8s) or watercooled Harley Davidson Vrod but I'm not getting commissions either! The primary 'con' issue for me regarding the use of 'waterless' coolant in OZ is engine operating temperature. The engine will run considerably hotter all the time. There's an optimal thermal temperature range for specific engine designs. Power drops off considerably if exceeded. This can be confirmed empirically if you really know your car thoroughly or scientifically if you have access to the appropriate technical equipment. The thermostat in a well designed cooling system should control the temperature the engine runs at, not the 'coolant' The best coolant available is plain 'water' in a clean, well designed cooling system. Add the appropriate additives (for your climatic conditions) to control degradation, freezing, electrolysis, etc and the 'water coolant concoction' will work effectively for years as it does in most currently designed vehicles. Note. I can run the aircon all day in my modern in 35°C plus temperatures without any issues. Water boils at 212°F at sea level....that's why radiator caps were invented with different ratings...the higher the rating the higher the boiling point. So when some eager sales person tells you that water boils in an engine at 212°C your response should be, "yes it does, but with the radiator cap removed!" The sales hype is really about scare tactics and psychology not science. * Well designed cooling systems do not create steam pockets in the engine cyl head or block! greengarageblog.org/17-waterless-coolant-pros-and-cons
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Post by djm16 on Feb 2, 2020 22:46:12 GMT
Waterless coolant is essentially undiluted glycol. Nothing clever about it. Yes, it does have excellent wetting properties and boils at a higher temperature than water.
However, it has a lower (and highly temperature dependent) specific heat capacity, meaning that for marginal systems like our P5 and P5Bs unmodified, it will lead to overheating in warm climates.
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Post by Brendan69 on Feb 3, 2020 16:49:40 GMT
At the end of the day its all down to the OP if or if not he wishes to use it or not. I was just offering my advice from friends who are currently using it with no issues at all.
I'm no scientists nor do i wish to be and i certainly ain't getting into a debate about it. LOL.
EACH TO THEIR OWN i say.
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Post by enigmas on Feb 3, 2020 22:52:06 GMT
It is a tech forum Brendan and most views will encourage discussion, sometimes lively...there's certainly no ill-will intended! The best way to understand the product is to directly use it; so if you're encouraged by your friends go the path and you'll surely form a first hand opinion regarding the products viability. NB. If I owned something very exotic, rare and stored as a museum piece I'd probably use the product and occasionally fire it up...but I don't!
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Post by Brendan69 on Feb 4, 2020 9:21:14 GMT
It is a tech forum Brendan and most views will encourage discussion, sometimes lively...there's certainly no ill-will intended! The best way to understand the product is to directly use it; so if you're encouraged by your friends go the path and you'll surely form a first hand opinion regarding the products viability. NB. If I owned something very exotic, rare and stored as a museum piece I'd probably use the product and occasionally fire it up...but I don't! Its something i will be looking at doing next year with my Rover all being well. I have spoken with Evans guys at the motor show a couple of years ago about their product and they were very helpful and offered plenty of advice. They even suggested there hi grade product be best for the P5B engine due to its alloy parts. Regards,
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Post by lagain on Feb 4, 2020 21:36:52 GMT
The problem is getting all the water out before putting in the waterless. I always use my drain taps on the block as well as on the radiator, but when it comes to refilling the system once the Bluecol is in there is mot much room left. Presumably removing the rear heater pipes would help. I know that some of the Stag owners use something similar and think it works well and the Stag cooling system is far more marginal than the Rover.
I have used silicone brake fluid for 25 years, when I replaced or rebuilt everything and would never go back to the old stuff, if the waterless cooling is as good as that it would be worth doing.
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Post by enigmas on Feb 4, 2020 21:51:27 GMT
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Post by Brendan69 on Feb 5, 2020 10:25:53 GMT
The problem is getting all the water out before putting in the waterless. I always use my drain taps on the block as well as on the radiator, but when it comes to refilling the system once the Bluecol is in there is mot much room left. Presumably removing the rear heater pipes would help. I know that some of the Stag owners use something similar and think it works well and the Stag cooling system is far more marginal than the Rover. I have used silicone brake fluid for 25 years, when I replaced or rebuilt everything and would never go back to the old stuff, if the waterless cooling is as good as that it would be worth doing. Have a good read up about it George as it does explain how it all works and the proceedures needed to install it. I think you will find its pretty straight forward task for you seeing as what you have been up to recently on yours. Regards,
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Post by lagain on Feb 8, 2020 21:33:06 GMT
No springiness in my pedal In fact, the MOT chap said 'good brakes !'
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