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Post by petermichae1508 on Jul 14, 2020 18:05:06 GMT
Hi may car has no spark at leads. But it has spark at points. Also has live at positive side of coil
Please help me
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Post by johnwp5bcoupe on Jul 14, 2020 18:30:27 GMT
Hi may car has no spark at leads. But it has spark at points. Also has live at positive side of coil Please help me Take the high tension lead off the distributor when you open and close the points does the high tension lead have a good spark to earth "mind your fingers"! |
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Post by Ken Nelson on Jul 15, 2020 14:44:43 GMT
If you have a spark at the coil, it could be a bad rotor (I've had these fail on me before) or else a problem with the distributor cap. It would not likely be in the wiring or all leads would have to be bad (pretty unlikely). I'd bet that either replacing the coil or the rotor will get it going if it was OK previously.
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Post by petermichae1508 on Jul 22, 2020 18:29:17 GMT
Hi change original coil replaced one from wadhams. Rev counter gone berserk. Coil gets hot quickly.
And then totally Lost of power cuts out of 10 minutes
Thanks
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Post by johnwp5bcoupe on Jul 23, 2020 8:40:21 GMT
Follow Vinces advice Peter I had a P5b here with cutting out problems a few years ago "helping a guy out" left the engine running came indoors only to hear a loud bang rushed outside there was copper wire an bitumen plus flames due to the wrong coil being fitted! I had it on my CCTV and was glad my head wasn't under there!!!
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Post by enigmas on Jul 23, 2020 9:04:28 GMT
I'd be keen to see the video of the exploding coil if you still have the CCTV footage John. You're very lucky you weren't hanging over the engine when the coil detonated!  |
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Post by johnwp5bcoupe on Jul 23, 2020 18:00:13 GMT
I'd be keen to see the video of the exploding coil if you still have the CCTV footage John. You're very lucky you weren't hanging over the engine when the coil detonated! Hi Vince I changed my CCTV system so long gone but I still remember it well it was like a flame thrower as you say I was a lucky fella  |
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Post by djm16 on Jul 25, 2020 10:15:46 GMT
"Hi change original coil replaced one from wadhams. Rev counter gone berserk. Coil gets hot quickly.
And then totally Lost of power cuts out of 10 minutes
Thanks "
In case it has not already been made crystal clear, this sounds like you have fitted a 6V coil and your car has been wired (modified) to supply 12V to the coil all the time instead of only on start-up.
Doing this is dangerous.
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Post by petermichae1508 on Jul 25, 2020 12:01:19 GMT
Hi it has a 12 volt coil intemoter part 11070.
But cannot find ballast resister on car. Neither any wires going to coil other than switch wire low tension should the car have a ballast resister the year of car February 1972.
Problem coil gets very hot and whilst idelling just loses power and cuts out
Thanks
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Post by enigmas on Jul 25, 2020 13:34:03 GMT
Unfortunately if you can't use either a multimeter or follow/understand the videos presented above it would be wise to take the car to an auto electrician. The fix is quite straight forward.
You need to know the ohms rating of the coil (forget about the part number) and this is easily checked with a multimeter.
Similarly check the voltage output to the coil + terminal with the engine running using a multimeter.
If you see 12 - 13.4 volts there's no resistor in the circuit.
If you see 6 - 8 volts there's a resistor somewhere in the circuit.
My guess (from the other side of the planet) is that you have 1.5 ohm coil fitted (or something similar)
Get hold of a 3.4 ohm coil (primary resistance) and see what transpires. (Forget about part numbers)
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Post by johnwp5bcoupe on Jul 25, 2020 16:54:33 GMT
Hi it has a 12 volt coil intemoter part 11070. But cannot find ballast resister on car. Neither any wires going to coil other than switch wire low tension should the car have a ballast resister the year of car February 1972. Problem coil gets very hot and whilst idelling just loses power and cuts out Thanks 1972 it should be a thiefproof coil 3.4 ohms? BUT don't rely on that Vince's post now a sticky How to Choose and test a Coil |
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Post by johnwp5bcoupe on Jul 25, 2020 18:31:30 GMT
Hi it has a 12 volt coil intemoter part 11070. But cannot find ballast resister on car. Neither any wires going to coil other than switch wire low tension should the car have a ballast resister the year of car February 1972. Problem coil gets very hot and whilst idelling just loses power and cuts out Thanks The coil you have Intermotor 11070 is a Ballasted Coil (Low Voltage) |
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Post by djm16 on Jul 26, 2020 4:01:54 GMT
Copied from LDParts website:
Ignition Coil [ Intermotor 11070 ] GCL334
Genuine INTERMOTOR 11070 Aftermarket Ignition coil fully tested to be used with a ballast resistor. Primary winding resistance 1.4 Ohms.
Unbranded Bulk Buy item to keep costs down. Authentic Made in UK label on base.
We offer this part in place of earlier Unipart Original Equipment now unavailable.
Part numbers that may bring this product up are UKC3555 GCL111 GCL132 GCL217 Weight is 800 grams
If you have electronic ignition please note that a coil of this type has given many years of reliable service with Lumenition Electronic Ignition on our car. We would have no hesitation in now fitting a this item to our car.
Additionally these INTERMOTOR Brand Coils have been tested and show better insulation than other Brands currently on the market.
We stress that it must be used with a Ballast resistance wire or Ballast Resistor which is bypassed only when starting.
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