rover3l123
Rover Fanatic
Originally from Llangollen area North Wales and relocated to the US in 1995 with the P5
Posts: 174
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Post by rover3l123 on Oct 24, 2020 13:23:14 GMT
I have just fitted new wheel cylinders and shoes to the rear brakes and bleed the system in the correct order wheel by wheel. The brake pedal goes down a long way on the first application, but feels normal on the second application.
I did also find that I have a sticking caliper as another problem to fix. My question is whether the sticking caliper could explain the brake pedal feel or is it more likely that the bleeding I have done was not sufficient?
I also have a second question. The calipers have been rebuilt a couple of times over the years and so this time I would prefer to buy refurbished units. Given that I live in the US, do any of the companies allow you to buy the refurbished units (paying a temporary) core charge so that I can get the new ones before removing mine?
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Post by lagain on Oct 24, 2020 16:16:43 GMT
That sounds normal for a starting point. The rear brakes are very difficult to bleed and it is best to bleed them over a period of days or even weeks to allow the air to work its way to the bleed screw. If by pumping the pedal it bites further up there is air in the system.
If a caliper is sticking I would do them now as you are wasting fluid if you have to bleed them again. I doubt if new calipers are readilly available, if yours are OK just renew the rubber seals. If your calipers do not have them and they are available you could fit stainless steel pistons. Re-furbished calipers may be available but only on exchange.
When I do my brakes I replace all the rubbers, in, cylinders, calipers, master cylinder and servo and if they have not been done for some time the flexible hoses.
You then know that the car is well set up for quite a few years.
If a caliper is sticking it can cause the disc to heat up, which then heats the grease up in the wheel bearing, which then runs out and the bearing is destroyed - best avoided !
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Post by Phil Nottingham on Oct 24, 2020 20:04:24 GMT
It looks like the brake system requires a complete overhaul. In no way should the pedal travel be excessive or other than firm. If you cannot bleed the air out you have other problems if you are following the correct bleeding process. Properly rebuilt callipers are essential and will last 10-15 years in regular use if not allowed to seize
There is plenty on SEARCH on this topic
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rover3l123
Rover Fanatic
Originally from Llangollen area North Wales and relocated to the US in 1995 with the P5
Posts: 174
|
Post by rover3l123 on Oct 25, 2020 0:24:35 GMT
It looks like the brake system requires a complete overhaul. In no way should the pedal travel be excessive or other than firm. If you cannot bleed the air out you have other problems if you are following the correct bleeding process. Properly rebuilt callipers are essential and will last 10-15 years in regular use if not allowed to seize There is plenty on SEARCH on this topic Thanks I will continue to bleed the system. I have previously replaced everything in the system, but that was a few years ago. I need to find a way to get my calipers exchanged given my USA base |
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Post by Phil Nottingham on Oct 25, 2020 5:13:01 GMT
Are the rear cylinders floating on the backplate? This is essential. Are the rear shoes adjusted properly from 2 clicks back when fully locked
Have you overhauled the master cylinder?
When bleeding the brakes start at the nipple furthest back and work forward. Do not open the nipples too far as air can be drawn in via the threads. Sometimes leaving a nipple undone for a while can help clear an airlock
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