rover3l123
Rover Fanatic
Originally from Llangollen area North Wales and relocated to the US in 1995 with the P5
Posts: 174
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Post by rover3l123 on Nov 22, 2020 19:21:21 GMT
I need to replace this switch and am struggling to find it. However, I have found a Lucas switch that appears to be visually identical and seems to be used for a range of applications where a micro switch function is needed. The switch is listed as lucas SMB479 31893 Handbrake light switch 1/4" x 28 UNF. Here is a link www.autoelectricalspares.co.uk/lucas-smb479-31893-handbrake-light-switch-14-x-28-unf-1239-p.aspThe only thing that I think could vary is the length of the threaded portion.
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Post by Ken Nelson on Nov 23, 2020 0:22:54 GMT
Hi David, I think that switch should be essentially the same since it is simply an on/off switch. The long threaded part can be adjusted for any length with the two nuts. My switch kept catching the throttle mechanism and I just finally removed it and connected the wires to be on all the time (ie not inhibit overdrive when the throttle is closed) and it doesn't really seem to make much difference. I do occasionally forget to turn o/d off at the switch, but going from 3rd gear to o/d 4th usually works OK if I do forget. Someday I'll perhaps try to fix it again, but I'm not in any rush.
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Post by Phil Nottingham on Nov 23, 2020 5:42:13 GMT
That is the same but with Lucar terminals instead of bullets
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rover3l123
Rover Fanatic
Originally from Llangollen area North Wales and relocated to the US in 1995 with the P5
Posts: 174
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Post by rover3l123 on Nov 26, 2020 18:47:05 GMT
My switch had Lucar spade terminals. Are you saying that originally these had bullets?
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Post by Ken Nelson on Nov 26, 2020 19:29:01 GMT
My 1966 P5 had spade terminals as well.
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Post by 3litrekiwi on Nov 27, 2020 8:41:13 GMT
When I replaced the gearbox in my car I did the rear crank seal which meant removing the bell housing and the throttle shaft that pivots on the top of the bell housing. This meant resetting the overdrive switch on reassembly. In the process of trying to set the microswitch it seemed to me that the Rover cam was pretty crudely formed and prone to snagging on the switch. I ground it to a more cam like profile and it operates the switch with no chance of catching. The overdrive seems to be working correctly. I think this was a worthwhile little mod that makes the adjustment of the switch far less sensitive.
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Post by Phil Nottingham on Nov 27, 2020 9:34:40 GMT
My switch had Lucar spade terminals. Are you saying that originally these had bullets? Later cars did have spades
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Post by 3litrekiwi on Feb 14, 2024 9:12:37 GMT
Hi David, I think that switch should be essentially the same since it is simply an on/off switch. The long threaded part can be adjusted for any length with the two nuts. My switch kept catching the throttle mechanism and I just finally removed it and connected the wires to be on all the time (ie not inhibit overdrive when the throttle is closed) and it doesn't really seem to make much difference. I do occasionally forget to turn o/d off at the switch, but going from 3rd gear to o/d 4th usually works OK if I do forget. Someday I'll perhaps try to fix it again, but I'm not in any rush. Hi Ken, just bypassed mine too as my routing for my replacement rear heater pipe is not quite correct so the throttle adjustment to get the cam into the right position isn't possible. I might rebend the pipe a wee bit to get the clearance again or modify the switch bracket. However I agree that without it, the only issue is shifting from third to "5th" but my driving technique has always been to switch the overdrive down and then into third or to flick the switch off after a direct overdrve to third. This is definitely not a priority job though, I actually think I prefer the bypass.
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Post by Ken Nelson on Feb 17, 2024 19:32:13 GMT
Yes, I still don't miss not having it, and it still really doesn't affect my driving style.
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