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Post by 3litrekiwi on Feb 20, 2021 3:30:25 GMT
Looking for any options to replace the block in my car. We are just completing a 1000 mile loop around the top of the South Island and the Rover has performed well other than using 5 litres of oil. I bought a replacement engine last year which turns out to be in worse condition than the one in the car.
I have a set of new pistons +0.020 so was hoping to rebore the spare but it is already 0.028 over on the worst pot. With my car being the last of the six cylinders it has the larger crank, I have been offered an earlier block that is borable but it is from a Mk II so the smaller diameter main bearing size.
I will discuss welding and reboring my engine with the reconditioners but would prefer a replacement. Does the 2.6 Land Rover use the same block or do I need to keep looking for one from a Mk III ?
Cheers Martin
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Post by Phil Nottingham on Feb 20, 2021 6:14:10 GMT
Not certain about the LR block but the Mk2c engine had the big crank as well as the last of the P4 110s. What about sleeving?
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Post by 3litrekiwi on Feb 20, 2021 7:21:01 GMT
Not certain about the LR block but the Mk2c engine had the big crank as well as the last of the P4 110s. What about sleeving? Yes, with what I have the options would be sleeving the worn block or welding the original. I had a 2200TC years ago that I had sleeved back to standard and reused the original pistons. That worked out ok . The reason I asked about the LR was they might be a bit more common down here. |
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Post by enigmas on Feb 20, 2021 9:57:39 GMT
Stick with your Mark 3 block, the best weslake head and larger crank and resleeve it Martin...sounds like the best option to me. If you've got a good set of appropriately sized pistons this should offset the cost of the resleeving. The block will be better than new if the work is carried out by a proficient engineering company.
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Post by 3litrekiwi on Feb 20, 2021 18:40:38 GMT
Stick with your Mark 3 block, the best weslake head and larger crank and resleeve it Martin...sounds like the best option to me. If you've got a good set of appropriately sized pistons this should offset the cost of the resleeving. The block will be better than new if the work is carried out by a proficient engineering company. Thanks Vince I had planned on keeping all my internal parts other than pistons and will keep the current head with modified valve guides. When I had the engine apart, the measurements I took were all pretty good and was hopeful that a hone and rings would give me a serviceable engine for the time being. There was some slight scoring left after honing that I recall you suggested would be a problem and this is likely to be letting more oil past than I had hoped. |
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Post by 3litrekiwi on Sept 26, 2021 8:21:20 GMT
Looks like I have a good donor. Mk11c that was siezed due to sitting but now stripped and off to the reconditioners this week. Bottom end and camshaft bearings look good. I am surprised at the wear on the rocker shafts, completely stuffed! Strangely, the rockers I tried on the good diameter still seem reasonable. No measurements taken yet but I have several sets so there must be a useable set among them. Fortunately the shafts are cheap as far as engine parts go.
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Post by 3litrekiwi on Dec 25, 2021 10:04:47 GMT
Merry Christmas everyone. I have another question. Does anyone know the diameter of the hole in the adaptor between the water pump and head on a three litre engine? I am rebuilding a pump for my replacement engine and the original was so corroded I had to drill it out. I have made a new one but have no reference for the hole size. Attachment Deleted |
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