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Post by ledders on May 10, 2021 9:06:16 GMT
Does anyone have any ideas what would turn the brake fluid a dirty black colour?
Thanks
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Post by Phil Nottingham on May 10, 2021 9:33:01 GMT
Severely degraded flexi hoses and the cylinder seals will not be much better. Dangerous so rectify quickly and flush pipes through with clean fluid.
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Post by ledders on May 10, 2021 9:56:17 GMT
Thanks for the feedback Phil, suspected as much
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Post by lagain on May 10, 2021 17:37:44 GMT
My advice would be to replace every rubber seal in the system, that includes servo, master cylinder, calipers and rear cylinders and fit Goodridge flexible hoses. Obviously the brakes have not had much done to them for some time, so make sure that the rear cylinders are able to 'float' Read all about it in the workshop manual. Hopefully you are able to do the work yourself as the rubbers themselves are not that expensive, it is the time it takes to fit that puts the cost up. Buy new seals from Wadhams, never use 'new old stock' as rubber deteriorates with age. The brakes on a P5 are difficult to bleed so that all the air is out, so you tend to use more fluid. Sometimes better to bleed and then leave for a few days for the air to settle. You have it done when there is very little free play on the brake pedal.
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Post by enigmas on May 10, 2021 23:20:30 GMT
Some hydraulic systems for whatever reason required a Dot3 brake fluid in the day. I had a Ford Econovan (rebadged Mazda E1600 van) during the 1980s. For whatever reason the specified brake fluid for this vehicle was Dot3 specifically. If a later specification fluid was used it would discolour to black. Interestingly later iterations/formulations of brake fluid specified compatibility with earlier versions of Dot3. I believe the blackening of the fluid was due to the black colour pigment of the hydraulic seals so it may not negatively effect the seals working properties.
Disassembling a brake component, eg a wheel cylinder and checking the quality of the cup seals will verify the condition of the current seals. Brake fluid is designed to swell the seals slightly.
Unless you want to strip and replace every seal in the whole brake system, I'd first flush the complete system with some fresh and currently manufactured brake fluid. This is an easy and straight forward brake bleeding task requiring an assistant. Just pump the fluid through every bleed nipple till it comes out clear. Current brake fluids print their compatibility with older versions of fluid prominently on the bottle.
* In case you're unaware traditional brake fluid (not the silicone type) needs to be changed periodically as it degrades and is hygroscopic (absorbs water vapour)
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Post by ledders on May 17, 2021 6:05:27 GMT
Spent Saturday replacing master cylinder, servo, and flexi hoses. Bled the brakes and they’re better than ever. While under the rear axle investigated the “clunk” from the rear axle when the auto box changes down into first at low revs/speed. Disconnected the prop shaft and there is play in the diff. Can anyone tell me whether the Range Rover Classic 1970-96 diff 3.54.1 24 spline 2pin 4 bolt flange is a suitable emplacement.
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Post by johnwp5bcoupe on May 17, 2021 8:53:55 GMT
Spent Saturday replacing master cylinder, servo, and flexi hoses. Bled the brakes and they’re better than ever. While under the rear axle investigated the “clunk” from the rear axle when the auto box changes down into first at low revs/speed. Disconnected the prop shaft and there is play in the diff. Can anyone tell me whether the Range Rover Classic 1970-96 diff 3.54.1 24 spline 2pin 4 bolt flange is a suitable emplacement. Too many Splines! 10 needed I believe they are the same as a Landrover series?? as they fit the P5b to up their drive ratio.
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Post by ledders on May 17, 2021 11:19:39 GMT
Many thanks John, appreciated
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