gannycat
Rover Rookie
Hello Phil,
Posts: 21 
|
Post by gannycat on Sept 10, 2021 20:47:11 GMT
I was considering removing the Petrol Pipe running from sediment bowl to the rear of the car. The workshop manual suggests that this is a simple operation.
The pipe has twists and turns and a number of fixtures seem to be in the way (brake master cylinder for one). I don't want to undo all the clips etc only to find that I have to strip half the engine bay out to remove it!
If this is as easy as the manual suggests I might go ahead.
Has anyone attempted this operation and is the manual correct in every respect? (3 litre mk1 auto)
Your comments would be most welcome.
Tony
|
|
|
|
Post by dmaxwell on Sept 10, 2021 21:12:17 GMT
My MkIIc had a hose running from front to rear, not pipes. The coupled with mine is a left hand drive may have made it easier to replace the hose as it had gotten very hard and would not seal at the ends, no matter how hard I screwed down the hose clamps!
David
California
|
|
gannycat
Rover Rookie
Hello Phil,
Posts: 21
|
Post by gannycat on Sept 11, 2021 10:43:17 GMT
Thank you David for your comments, however, the petrol pipe I believe is steel so no ability to bend.
Tony U.K
|
|
|
|
Post by MK IA Norway Viking on Sept 13, 2021 9:30:53 GMT
Good morning Tony and David,
I have an MK IA left hand drive, and have replaced the pipe. It travels along the right hand side of the car, from the boot through a rubber grommet and under the floor along the sill and subframe to the inner front wing and from there snakes its way up to the torpedo and forward to the sediment bowl.
It is not hard work. BEWARE of the long travel of the bonnet hinge - it can easily catch on the fuel pipe unless you pay enough attention to the layout.
I know some cars have the last metre or so with rubber hose instead of pipe - this hose can easily be caught by the bonnet hinge and squeeze it, resulting in fuel starvation to engine (happened to me ...).
It is true, some cars have a rubber hose instead of a pipe. This is good from point of practicality but not so good if you consider that the thin metal brackets holding it in place corrode and fall off. When they do the rubber hose will sag and become visible from the side where it is sagging to be lower than the sill.
The material of the original pipe was never steel (hard and not bendable) but an alloy that looks like steel while still bendable by hand. Brake pipes are made of this material.
I opted for copper, and got myself a tool that make flanges in copper. The copper is stiff enough that it will not fall below the sill if the securing brackets corrode and lose their strength. One can also select the type of metal that the brake-workshops are using.
It may be better to put the car to a brake-workshop as they are specialists to manufacture / make a pipe that is long enough/suitable and to avoid the tedious work of bending the pipe to get around the various items in the engine bay.
Good luck to you !
|
|
|
|
Post by Sam Bee on Sept 14, 2021 11:52:17 GMT
The pipe material referred to is 'knifer', actually cupro-nickle. Just as easy to bend as copper, same forming tools can be used as for copper. This is the proper material to use for fuel and brake pipes as it is harder and more durable than copper, and original too.
|
|
|
|
Post by johnwp5bcoupe on Sept 14, 2021 14:56:33 GMT
The pipe material referred to is 'knifer', actually cupro-nickle. Just as easy to bend as copper, same forming tools can be used as for copper. This is the proper material to use for fuel and brake pipes as it is harder and more durable than copper, and original too. Kunifer is a lot harder to bend IMHO Sam and on small radius bends it can be a bit tricky! I wouldn't use copper it's far too soft. The original pipes rusted Kunifer doesn't. |
|
gannycat
Rover Rookie
Hello Phil,
Posts: 21
|
Post by gannycat on Sept 14, 2021 22:19:56 GMT
Thank you all for your advice and comments very much appreciated.
Tony
|
|
