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Post by Deleted on Nov 2, 2005 21:36:40 GMT
I'm a new subscriber to this list. I wonder if anyone has suggestions on how to clean the water passages in my cylinder head. The head is off the engine. I have cleaned the cooling passages in the block with muriatic acid and am advised I cannot use this in the aluminum cylinder head.
My car is a 1965 Mk IIc
Thank you in advance.
David
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Post by Phil Nottingham on Nov 2, 2005 22:07:33 GMT
Hot vinegar will remove the limescale if left to soak for an hour or so - any aluminium oxide can be removed by a warm solution of oxalic acid but do not leave for very long as it will dissolve the head entirely. I do no really recommend this though as its likely to fail internally if its that badly oxidised
If it is badly oxidised you will probably find that the coolant holes will enlarge to an extent that will have to be welded up, redrilled and the head refaced.
In this case a better option is to find another head!
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Post by dorsetflyer on Nov 3, 2005 20:01:07 GMT
Phil, if you cast your memory back to the old board, Tom Wilson went in to this question of flushing out the waterways and one of the best products was STERGENE which you can get form hardware shops and some supermarkets. I'll see if I can find it and transfer the info over.
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Post by Phil Nottingham on Nov 3, 2005 20:47:04 GMT
I do vaguely remember about that although whlist I can see soda based products are good for scale removal aluminium oxide needs something different
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Post by dorsetflyer on Nov 3, 2005 20:57:01 GMT
Sturgene is not a soda based liquid. It's used for softening woollens. Diane will probably know of it. I have checked back and the process is used to good effect on a Rolls royce Phantom. www.boddice.co.uk/bmai101.htm when the result comes up, click on it, and then click on FLUSHING THE COOLING SYSTEM.
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Post by Phil Nottingham on Nov 3, 2005 22:04:27 GMT
Yes it does seem worth trying although why it works I am not sure
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Post by Smallfry on Nov 4, 2005 0:02:57 GMT
I use a central heating system cleanser.....works a treat !
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Post by Deleted on Nov 4, 2005 2:49:48 GMT
I am the new subscriber who started the rust thread. My source for oxalic acid asked what concentration I need. Can you advise? I am not familiar with Stergene (is this a U.K. product? I am in Canada). I think I need something stronger than vinegar. The block water passages and radiator were very rusty and this iron rust is what is in the head. The visible rust in it is red, not just white aluminium corrosion. I appreciate your help. Thank you. David
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Post by glennr on Nov 4, 2005 15:14:14 GMT
Rust and grease are very different and you are better off not asking for a single chemical to handle both problems. Grease is removed with solvents or caustics and rust is removed with acid. Get all the grease off first, and if you then see a problem with rust, look for a rust remover. A commercial phosphoric acid based one will be safer for you and your parts than messing with muriatic acid.
To be brief, short and succinct, D O N T !
Any acid will cause problems. HCl, ie. muriatic will attack chrome very nicely let alone ss fastener clamps etcetera. Consider using a proprietary cleaner. Such materials will dissolve oils and are water miscible. Any automotive store should have one! Pour some into an old plastic spray bottle so that you can access hard to reach spots. OK?
Re rust removal, I'm not sure. I really don't know. Personally I would never, ever have contemplated using an acid to remove any engine rust. Maybe HCl or sulphuric with immediate wash-off, drying and then painting. Better still use steel wool.
I found the above comments on the internet. They are not my suggestions.
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Post by Phil Nottingham on Nov 4, 2005 19:11:23 GMT
:)Welcom to the board - tell us morre about you and your car!
The Stergene is a mild detergent used for hand washing woollens so is good for wetting scale and dissolving oil deposits.
The Oxalic acid I obtained is in powder form and is and ideal bleach and rust solvent when mixed in a strong hot solution..
It is highly poisonous and available free of charge in Rhubarb leaves if you can work out a way of extracting it!
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Post by dorsetflyer on Nov 4, 2005 20:39:03 GMT
David, my apologies for the fact that I did not know you resided in Canada, but assumed you were UK based. There may well be the equivalent of Stergene over in Canada or the States, but what it is I don't know. I know the product is not limited to the UK as I have seen it in Norway and Spain. Anyway welcome to the site and hope we can shed some light on your problem.
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Post by dorsetflyer on Nov 4, 2005 20:42:04 GMT
Phil, boiling the leaves as in say cooking cabbage, may be a way of getting out the acid. Just a tongue in cheek idea.
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Post by Deleted on Nov 6, 2005 6:16:46 GMT
I must appologise for not introducing myself earlier. I am in Canada, about 250 miles east of Vancouver. Four years ago I bought my 1965 Mk IIc. It was said to have had only 46,000 miles, but there are some signs that it may be 146,000. In the summer of 2004, I prepared all the bodywork for paint. It was totally rust free, including the rocker panels. It was sprayed professionally but poorly. That is another story, but it is alright for awhile. A bady burned exhaust valve caused, I think, by heavy carbon deposits is the reason I now have the head off. Very heavy rust deposits are now cleaned from the block and radiator. I have found a supplier for the oxalic crystals and will clean out the head hopfully next week. I have found the pages on this site very interesting and the information helpful. Thank you again. David.
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Post by Phil Nottingham on Nov 6, 2005 17:35:10 GMT
Ps let us know how you get on - but do not leave it in overnight or you may find nothing left!!
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Post by Deleted on Nov 8, 2005 15:48:56 GMT
To let you know how I got on: I have cleaned out the water passages in the cylinder head and intake manifold with oxalic acid. I happened to mention to a new neighbour what I was going to do and fortunately for me he is experienced with handling acids. I accepted his offer to watch and help. Now that the cooling system is clean I can get on with grinding and lapping valves. If anyone would like, I can pass on what I have learned.
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