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Post by Deleted on Mar 1, 2006 19:30:23 GMT
just been out for a drive again and the auto box seems to be slipping,when i try to accelerate it seems to slip for a second before taking off then start slipping again. is this common on DG boxes? should i start looking for a replacement or can i sort it? cheers matt
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Post by Phil Nottingham on Mar 1, 2006 19:42:04 GMT
Its not all good - is the ATF level correct - is it still red?
Adjusting the bands may help - the level is critical. Driving it like this will only cause more damage and it will quickly fail
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Post by Deleted on Mar 2, 2006 19:20:45 GMT
cheers phil, im guessing now its started slipping theres not much point messing with it or changing fluid. may as well just fit a replacement? any hints on doing the engine out procedure?
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Post by Phil Nottingham on Mar 2, 2006 19:35:09 GMT
Both engine/gearbox have to come out together and the combined unit is very very heavy. I remove the rad/grill/ rad/topcrossmember/front valance/bonnet and centre bumper section but otherwise its jsut a matter of undoing everything and hoisting out Line up a reconditioner and get quotes - they are not cheap to have done up unless you can get a known good secondhand one
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Post by Deleted on Mar 2, 2006 19:56:12 GMT
ive lined up a known good one. cant find anywhere in the manual about splitting the engine and the box
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Post by Phil Nottingham on Mar 2, 2006 20:04:58 GMT
It just unbolts from the bell housing
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Post by Deleted on Mar 2, 2006 20:30:20 GMT
phil,will a normal engine hoist lift it?
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Post by Phil Nottingham on Mar 2, 2006 21:38:33 GMT
Define normal - I bought a Clarke long arm 1 Tonne specially - it did it with no problem but not on full extension
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Post by Deleted on Mar 3, 2006 19:08:48 GMT
ive hired one its a 1000kg limit if its not extended. ive started stripping the car ,ive removed the grill,valance etc but is the part above the valance removable? looks like its spot welded to inner wings!
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Post by Phil Nottingham on Mar 3, 2006 19:36:37 GMT
No - its not removable its better to remove the valance though as this is very easily damaged - the hoist should be Ok as well
Watch you do not strain the engine mounting rubbers at the rear or squash the heater box as the whole lot swings back!
I will be doing mine as well shortly to put in a better engine/box I have had in resrve for years
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Post by Deleted on Mar 4, 2006 20:31:22 GMT
engine and box out re fit tommorow if all goes to plan! you were right about it being heavy phil and tight!
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Post by Phil Nottingham on Mar 5, 2006 10:28:25 GMT
Good luck - you certainly do not hang around!
The fiddly bit is lining up the splines in the converter with the front pump splines in the box - do not force them together as it will damage something.
Are you fitting another torque converter?
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Post by Deleted on Mar 5, 2006 17:43:15 GMT
hi phil,ive re fitted the engine and box.next weekend ill put everything back together.joinig box and engine was a bit fiddly but we "jiggled" it about a bit till it slid home. i didnt change torque converter,are they prone to failing!. i will now drain torque converter and box and refill with fresh fluid,i presume following manual instructions for this is best? and ill need a new gasket for the sump first.
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Post by Phil Nottingham on Mar 5, 2006 18:15:51 GMT
If the converter was performing OK and direct drive top was locked then it should be OK. The only reason I mentioned it was thst the bell housing/convertor plate had to be centralised if disturbed.
Its best to follow the drain procedure in the manual - at least it can be properly drained unike the BW35
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Post by Deleted on Mar 5, 2006 19:05:21 GMT
phil, what do you mean by "direct drive top was locked"
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Post by Phil Nottingham on Mar 5, 2006 19:09:51 GMT
This grearbox like mderm auto's locks the Torque converter in Top gear so there should be no fuel wasting slippage.
Thats why it is thicker than the BW35 version as it has clutch plates in it to lock the turbine blades
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Post by Deleted on Mar 5, 2006 19:32:57 GMT
right so what would the symptoms have been if it wasnt locking
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Post by Phil Nottingham on Mar 5, 2006 20:08:41 GMT
Slip/delayed or even no top gear, possibly juddering on overun.
Do not forget that these gearboxes normally start in 2nd gear unless column switch is down
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Post by Deleted on Mar 5, 2006 20:15:01 GMT
hopefully alls well or its engine out again! cheers for the help phil.ill let you know how it goes
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Post by Deleted on Mar 12, 2006 18:23:28 GMT
disaster ! got everything back together,filled gearbox as instructed and started car.turned my back to check manual ,engine started making a noise so i quickly turned it off only to realise id fractured the banjo pipe that goes from the rear of the head to the sender and oil was all over the drive! when id turned it off i checked oil level on dipstick and it was showing just above the L mark.do you think i would have damaged the engine ? it was only running for a minute or two at the most!
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Post by Phil Nottingham on Mar 12, 2006 18:36:59 GMT
Don't panic its should be OK as the engine was not under load and the pipe feeds the rockers which will have some residual oil in them anyway. As its a restricted supply the bearings would have been fed some oil.
What sort of noise?
Knocking or rattling?
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Post by Deleted on Mar 12, 2006 19:29:18 GMT
more like a rattle phil although i didnt leave it on to listen turned it off as quick as i could im pretty sure it was coming from top of engine though?
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Post by Phil Nottingham on Mar 12, 2006 21:04:37 GMT
Makes sense as the rockers will be running dry - should be OK though
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Post by Deleted on Mar 18, 2006 14:33:26 GMT
thankfully engine sounds fine now ive fitted the new pipe. still got problems though....the gearbox fluid is leaking from bell housing badly ! should have done the oil seal i suppose.it did cross my mind at the time but as i didnt have one to hand i took a chance, bad move. it is leaking very badly though would that be the oil seal only?
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Post by Phil Nottingham on Mar 18, 2006 18:20:03 GMT
It is a bit unfortunate! Its very likely to be the seal - I think these can be removed without taking off the the front pump flange as if not you will need pump seals as well. It may swell up a bit - to allow you to road-test the box to ensure all gears lock up OK Be heartened by the fact that the second time the engine is removed it will be easier! ;D
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