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Post by Deleted on Nov 6, 2006 8:40:45 GMT
Would appreciate some advice on a sticking clutch or at least I think that's what I've got. Went to use my P5 manual yesterday and couldn't engage any gears - just got a nasty grinding of teeth. Tried to start car in gear but it just wanted to kangeroo forward. I've recently done some work to the gear lever and selector bits and the car was last driven about 2 weeks ago. Fluid is ok in reservoir. So I reckon the plates are stuck - the car lives outside at the mo in all the damp. Whats the best method of releasing them as I've had loads of (sometimes conflicting) advice.
Cheers Mark
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Post by rov5b on Nov 6, 2006 10:04:44 GMT
I succesfully released a seized clutch many years ago by the following method:- - Warm the engine up to working temperature - switch off and raise the rear wheels clear of the ground a couple of inches with a strong hydraulic trolley jack - chock the front wheels and take every precaution that everything and everyone is clear from the front - just in case! Select a high gear, depress the clutch pedal and KEEP it depressed - start the engine, if the clutch is seized the rear wheels will now be rotating - accelerate up to about 1500rpm - probably easiest to pull out the choke to keep the revs up or you will need three feet! and gently apply and release the the foot brake a few times - hopefully at this point the clutch releases itself. - I think this is the most gentle way to try to release it. - There are more severe methods but hopefully as your car has only been standing a couple of weeks this will do the trick - good luck!
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Post by Deleted on Nov 7, 2006 11:38:32 GMT
Thanks rov5B - a mate suggested the very same thing literally minutes after your post. He added axle stands may well be a little safer, but he used the same process to free up stuck clutches on Land Rovers - presumably isolated the 4WD bit! I'll give this a try when I go home for the weekend. Mark
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Post by rov5b on Nov 7, 2006 12:46:30 GMT
The axle stands sound a good idea - I would still chock the front wheels though.
Hope it does the trick!
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Post by Ken Nelson on Nov 8, 2006 5:02:12 GMT
Mark, I previously stored my Rover, Riley, and 2 MG's in a damp pole barn for the winter and frequently had to free up a frozen clutch plate after a few months sitting on a damp floor. I finally avoided the jack stands by warming the engine fully in neutral, shutting off the engine, engaging 1st gear, and starting it in gear with the starter. I then drove it on some paved surface and put in the clutch and rather forcefully hit the brakes with the car rolling. Once or twice was usually enough to break the clutch free, and avoided the work of jacking it up. Just be sure you have a straight area in front of the car that is free of obstacles when you do it! Ken
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Post by Deleted on Nov 10, 2006 12:34:46 GMT
OK - I was home today and so I started the job - warmed engine right up, jacked up rear and then started in 4th with rear wheels now spinning like B****ry. Raised revs to 1500-2000 with a stick whilst keeping clutch depressed and putting on brakes. Unfortunately, the engine usually stalled and clutch remains stuck on as ever. Tried to be quite savage by emergency braking at 2500rpm but I don't want her to work herself off the axle stands! So now I need the severe remedy and what do you lot advise? I don't have a long driveway so starting it in gear (which I tried a little) isn't so practicable. Could I tow it and then be brutal with the brakes or something or will I have to take the dammed thing apart? Cheers Mark
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Post by rov5b on Nov 10, 2006 15:31:11 GMT
Sorry to hear you had no luck - A more severe method which I have heard about - which I have never tried myself, I hasten to add (yet!)
Is : With an assistant - Again with engine at running temp. Jack up rear with just the trolley jack so that the wheels are just clear of the ground. Clutch pedal depressed - Start engine in high gear - rear wheels now rotating keep revs up to approx 1500. With ~NO~ obstacles in front. Be ready to slam on the footbrake as your assistant releases the jack and the car wheels make contact with the ground - again keep the clutch pedal depressed thoughout.
Hopefully (he says again!) when the rear wheels contact the ground the engine attempts to move the car forward (still in a high gear remember) - the bond between the clutch disc and the flywheel breaks under the torque load.
Good luck - but please be very careful
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Post by Deleted on Nov 18, 2006 10:04:30 GMT
She's going again - combination of brakes and high revs in 4th on a couple of axle stands finally released her. Plenty of smoke from the brakes which overheated. Now the soddin slave cylinder is leaking. Never ends does it?
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Post by rov5b on Nov 18, 2006 18:27:40 GMT
As you say it never ends!! - I used to think they are a bit like the Fourth Bridge - Just when you think you are finished it is time to start again! Glad you sorted the clutch though
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Post by Deleted on Nov 23, 2006 12:33:17 GMT
If a clutch is stuck fast to that extent, looks like there is a more serious problem that needs looking at. Is it dragging/slipping to cause the resin in the lining to melt and stick to the plate/flywheel? I have freed a stuck clutch in my SIIA Landrover by turning it over on the handle in gear with handbrake on and the clutch pedal held down with a piece of wood.
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Post by Deleted on Nov 23, 2006 21:43:05 GMT
I don't think the clutch was dragging nor slipping - maybe a combination of being stood in the wet facing the wind for all of October? Who knows but she's going OK now apart from a slight weep from the slave which is the next task.
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