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Post by Deleted on Oct 7, 2007 14:41:42 GMT
hi all, can anybody tell me what kind of oil pressure i should be looking for on the v8 engine? cheers matt
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Post by Phil Nottingham on Oct 7, 2007 14:59:04 GMT
Back with P5 again?/ Perhaps a B?. when hot 30-40 Ilbs at approx 40mph.
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Post by johnwp5bcoupe on Oct 7, 2007 15:03:31 GMT
Cold 40-50 psi at 2400 rpm , Warm 27-35 psi at 2400 rpm Warm 15-20 psi when idling with a standard pump these engines are about volume not pressure Slightly in the wrong section
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Post by Deleted on Oct 7, 2007 16:38:49 GMT
thnks guys, hi phil. not quite a b phil although ive still got the p5 garaged. this is for an earlyish range rover im looking at and guessed id get some help here. i believe the 3.5 v8 is much the same. it was showing between 20-30 when it was warm. didnt see it cold though! what do you think? matt
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Post by Phil Nottingham on Oct 7, 2007 17:14:10 GMT
Proabably showing signs of waer but can gp on for many thousands of miles like that with care.
its the really hot pressure when running at speed that matters
Also compare with another gauge
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Post by johnwp5bcoupe on Oct 7, 2007 17:47:39 GMT
The cold figure was to save you the bother of warming up every time but as Phil says it's the running pressure that counts sound a little low depends how many miles the lump has done
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Post by Deleted on Oct 9, 2007 18:08:38 GMT
just spoken to the owner and he tells me the engine is 30psi cold 10psi hot at tickover... what do you think?
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Post by Phil Nottingham on Oct 9, 2007 18:32:08 GMT
No good - virtually meaningless really. Its got to be running pressure. If car not roadworthy run engine until really hot and then hold at say 2000-2500 revs for 5 mins
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Post by Deleted on Oct 13, 2007 16:54:44 GMT
thanks for the advice chaps,i let that one go but found one thats in much better condition. is there any way of fixing a leaky seam on a fuel tank?
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Post by Phil Nottingham on Oct 13, 2007 17:20:27 GMT
The only sure way is to drain and put some of the special "Slosh" tank sealer from Frosts etc. Its a lot of bother almost as much as fitting a better tank as it has to be removed to do this.
These tanks do seam prone to leaks through the seams. If you can find the spot it can be soldered with a big old fashioned iron but not the bulit in flame types - it must be one that heated up in a gas ring/blow torch well away from the tank. The tank will still have to be removed though
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