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Post by Deleted on Mar 22, 2005 17:26:33 GMT
Hello, Can anyone give me advice into replacing the rear inner wheelarch on my P5b?
I have bought rear wing repair sections from Wadhams, but the corrosion has also eaten most of the inner wheel arch behind the road wheel.
I have put a screwdriver through the panel just about everywhere, so theres no solid metal to weld to.
This section is not available from Wadhams, but just the top wheel arch repair section on its own.
Advice on what to do next would be helpful! ;D
Thanks Steve
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Post by Deleted on Mar 22, 2005 19:23:24 GMT
:'(Sorry to hear of your woes
If its that bad is it worth doing? These cars are not that rare! If this area has gone whats the rest like?
Particularly the scuttle which is very difficult to sort out if its too far gone.
If you are committed to repairing you can do a number of things which does depend on your skill, available tools and cash
1. Fabricate a suitably shaped panel.
2. Find a suitable off the shelf modern panel and adapt it.
3. Cut out a good one from a doner car
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Post by glennr on Mar 22, 2005 19:38:53 GMT
Is this the section you are asking about? GlennR
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Post by Deleted on Mar 23, 2005 8:01:10 GMT
Have a look at www.nevcc.net/Restoration_projects/RoverP5B.html I had to replace the inner wing / wheel-arch. I got the new panels from Wadhams there are made from good strong metal but there is a lot of fitting on them, it’s not just a case of buy and weld.
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Post by Deleted on Mar 23, 2005 9:23:25 GMT
Thanks for the replys,
Yes - the area of corrosion is as shown in the picture, but it has continued right to the botom of the 'flat' area of the wheelarch.
The car is not too bad - the drivers side was parked on a grass verge & has corrosion to the sill section, bottom of the doors, rear inner wing & rear chassis leg areas. The rest of the car is fine - ie screen scuttles, a posts etc. I have already got a set of good replacement wings for the drivers side & aquired a reasonable rear bumper.
Alternatives I suppose, would involve a better shell - if anyone has one? Or - as suggested - a wheelarch off a scrap / donor car.
If anyone has such items, I'm in Cheshire - So i could collect / pickup / remove etc if there is anone local?
Regards Steve
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Post by glennr on Mar 23, 2005 18:25:13 GMT
Steve, Can you post a picture of the area you are on about as I am still confused? You can send it to me as an attachment to glennreeve@aol.com if you are not sure how to post it onto the site, use this method. ;)GlennR
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Post by allanthomas1 on Oct 2, 2010 18:45:09 GMT
Hi steve, I'm in the process of finishing both the complete replacement of both inner wings, corners of boot both side's and inner wheel arch. All parts fabricated by me, I have been repairing classic cars for over 35years. Make patterns by using card board, donot cut anything out until replacement sections are made, do one side at a time make sure cars is properly braced, you can easly lose your gaps if your not careful. Inner wheel arch can be formed complete with flange by using heat to warm the flange to produce the right curve. The panel work should be fairly striaght forward to produce, Always have a fire extingusher, I would recommend removing the fuel tank, you need to remove rear seat, parcel shelf, corners of head lining. Happy welding !
Allan
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Post by Deleted on Aug 16, 2011 16:07:19 GMT
how do you remove back seat and rear outer wing thank you i nead help
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Post by Deleted on Aug 16, 2011 16:40:20 GMT
The Rover 3litre workshop manual explains it all. Here's what is says. )paraphrased)
Rear seat squab and cushion
Remove trim panel from front of petrol tank in boot. Undo fixings holding rear seat squab to body panel.Lift out squab and seat cushion.
Rear Wing
Disconnect battery leads and remove trim from inside of wing panels. On left hand wing remove tools and tool board. Remove tail lamp assembly. Remove the three bolts situated inside the boot. Remove the nut and bolt situated inside the tail lamp aperture. Remove the bolts from the lower front corner and rear corner of the wing. Slacken the top bolts from the inside of the wheel arch. Do not remove the first three in the top front corner.Remove top and bottom wing moulding, remove all remaining bolts except the first three in the top front corner, lift the wing upwards and off.
Ha ha ha, that's the theory when the cars were new. In practice you'll find most of the bolts will be rusted/missing and your inner wing might also be missing dependant on the state of your car. Essentially, its all obvious nuts and bolts stuff but how easy/hard it will be depends on how much rust etc is present.
I assume you have problems and that's why you're doing the job?
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Post by Deleted on Aug 17, 2011 9:01:16 GMT
yes failed on d post im puzled becase ther say inner wing the panells in the boot are good what am i looking for should ther be another panell between that and the outer thank you for your help
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Post by Deleted on Aug 17, 2011 11:56:46 GMT
No, there is only the wing and the inner panel. In many cars, the inner panel rots along the top and over the years many bodges will have taken place. There is an outer and an inner "d" post if that's what you mean.They almost touch at the bottom just above the sill and that's where the rust starts. Replacement of the inner and outer "D" posts is major work usually involving the sill.
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Post by Deleted on Jun 10, 2012 22:21:11 GMT
what is the correct gap between the front and rear door when closed on P5
Regards paddy
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Post by allanthomas1 on Jun 10, 2012 23:55:41 GMT
I fabricate my own repair panels, from your description this is just the tip of the problem, if the inner wing bay is gone to that extent you can have problems with corrosion at the top of the inner wing where the mounting bolts are for the outer wing, this area is also lead loaded so heat from the welding process can melt the lead, the inner and outer D posts, area for door catch are all prone to corrosion you don't know until you get the rear wing off and clean the old under-seal of . I made a pattern up from plywood sheet for the inner rear wing and replace the metal in that area with thicker grade steel, pity you were not living nearer I would be happy to advise, or even help with the repair, I hope you have good welding skills and plenty of patents. I have just completed a P5B looked good ended up with complete sill replacement, including jacking points, inner outer D posts door catch area, inner rear wings complete, corner boot floor, replacement of inner wheel arch 6" section all round , good luck
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