P5B gearbox replacement - new step

[madoxmic]

Today removed the current faulty gearbox. Quite straight forward, but took me about six hours.

I believe I am a slow beginner, but do recommend the lower left bolt between box and T.converter bell, it took me some 30 minutes before figuring out it would be much easier from below !.

Next step is obviously removal of the TC, but I am already worried by one thing I notice when comparing the two boxes : the "new" (actually new) kickdown cable is much longer than the "old" (really old) one.

Wouldn't there be a problem with this ?
I'd rather know this before refitting the box, as if I have to swap them, it's much easier with the boxes on a table, no ?

Thanks for any hint about that.

Michel

[Phil Nottingham]

:DWell done so far - no real problem then

It sounds like you have a box with the old type
longer cable with the kick down operated directly from the left hand side carb.

The shorter cable is for the later set up with a long oerating rod to take the kick down lever to the back of the cylinder head.

You can either remove the sump from the new box to fit the short cable - this is quite easy or fit the earlier type bracket to the LH manifold - easy if you have one

If you retain the shorter rear operated cable from the original box then make sure the plastc bush is still present in the hole in the bracket or you will never get proper kickdown operation.

The cable in both cases will have to be adjusted to give the correct change down speeds per the manual

[madoxmic]

Thanks Phil,
I will probably swap, as I do not have any other bracket than the one on the car.
Will let you know the result.

Michel

[Phil Nottingham]

;D
PS
[glow=red,2,300] DO NOT FORGET TO CLEAN OUT THE OIL COOLER AND PIPES PROPERLY AND FLUSH THROUGH WITH NEW ATF BEFORE FILLING THE NEW BOX WITH THE CORRECT QUANTITY OF OIL [/glow]

[madoxmic]

Thanks Phil,
I will try not to forget this, it's for tomorrow morning.

Already removed the TC, then refit the new one and tightened the bolts fixing to the so called "flexible drive plate" (I thought it would be called the flywheel). And discovered tonight it is said in the book to tighten the bolts fixing the bell housing before and I dont't understand why ?

Is it important ?
Hope nor, either, but if I do not read any comment before bed time tonight, I will prbably do as is written tomorrow, so untighten, then

[madoxmic]

Oups, was too fast at posting

So

"then", re tighten in good order.
More work, but maybe safer ? Except if procedure was only to help prevent TC to turn when tightening ?

For the rest, I swapped the two kickdown cables, not difficult, and hopefully tomorrow will be refitting the box.

And eventually the 18 bolts of the cover. I must say I like those !

[Phil Nottingham]

Its easier and far desirable to fit the TC first fully tighten and then fit the bell housing and tighten up and recheck everything.

[glow=blue,2,300]Now for the difficult and nail biting bit[/glow]

It is essential, unless you are very lucky, and they line up first time, to ensure that the two tongues and the splines on the TC line up with those corresponding in the pump in the front of the box. They should easliy slide in quickly - if they do not DONOT force. It helps here if someone can move the crankshaft pulley slightly back and forth whilst you and some else is holding the gearbox and gently pushing the two togther. It helps even more if you try to get the tongues/grooves in the same relative positions in both TC & box. It is possible to bolt the whole lot together so as to lock up the converter which will probably damage both items!

This is by far the worst part although at least 1/2 doz of the setscrews holding the inspection cover will also be tight in their threads till the end!

Good luck

[madoxmic]

Thanks Phil,
I read all this now, coming back from the P5 work, the "new" box being now in site. Actually I loosened a little the TC bolts, aligned the two teeth on the TC with the spaces on the box (white marking helps), was helped for positioning the box and everything went well. Then tightened everything in logical order to allow free positioning and alignment of the engine-TC-box.
And did not forget to flush oil conducts, inspecting also the pipes line
At the end, after some hours, it seems that everything works OK, except the inhibitor switch although I followed the procedure and everything looked fine outside the car. But I suspect some strange connection between starter and inhibitor, will have to check, and for the moment will go on living so
The car was started, and went forward and rear by itself, so looks that it actually has an operational box in. ;D

Thanks for all, will let you know after the WE if it could run for some km.

Regards

[Phil Nottingham]

;DGood you have become an expert now too - do make sure you check the ATF level before you test drive and again when its hot. Then ensure the kickdown cable is set to give all the correct gearchanges at all the speeds in the manual.

Check that you have connected the inhibitor relay terminals onthe bulkhead behind the heater and the reversing light terminals up the right way round - I cannot remember which diagonal pair are the angled ones or the straight ones. I can look tomorrow if you are stuck.

It easy to check with a test light though but the switch adjustment is critical - its easier to adjust it before you put the gearbox back but can be done in situ.

Also make sure the flexible rubber pipes from the oil cooler conduits to the rad are tight on and clipped - they are originally push fit only and one of mine detached itself and let most of the ATF out onto the road

[madoxmic]

Last update :
the car was back on the raod last WE after some more hours refitting everything, just fine, seems to be smoother than before.
Only the downshift I am not sure having properly adjusted, but according to literature, needs special pressure measuring tool, or re-opening sump after draining, so I only did it approx.
Adjusted the switch, out of the box, really easy, worked well, but still does not operate on site, I now suspect some "shortcuts" in the wiring pattern, will have to follow the wires and check
Checked the oil cooling pipes, but this I had secured when I replaced the radiator (the "sanding" one !).
Amazing the initial mounting is not better secured, so cheap to install 4 clips.
So hopefully will not have to replace the box again soon. Just cross fingers.
On the removed TC, discovered that the two teeth at the end of the tube (those which engage on the box when correctly aligned) were both broken.
Could this be the origin of the problem (but then, where did they go ?), or could they be missing for the last 14 years, and the box still operating. Quite puzzling !

But the good news is : the car is back on the road again.
Thanks for your help and encouragement.

[Deleted]

???If I undersatnd you the teeth will be in the pump housing - the pump probably seized and broke them thus no pump pressure no drive - the sand coused this!

The clips on the cooler pipes are a very good idea.

Just make sure the box is cahnging at the correct speeds as it will cause damage if left too long