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Post by Phil Nottingham on Sept 18, 2006 18:50:20 GMT
I have looked in the official P4 Workshop manual - the P5 rear brake arrangement being copied in its entirety down to even the brake shoes. This does not show which holes the springs go in either. Even some of the pictures are the same!
It also says the pull off springs should be renewed along with the cylinder rubbers when the linings are replaced!
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Post by Deleted on Sept 18, 2006 19:42:22 GMT
Yes, that's reasonable advice for the cylinder rubbers and I am slightly overdue on that task I think my car is on its 3rd set of linings but the last lot were replaced after oil contamination from a leaky hub seal. The springs are fine and pretty strong but they might weaken/rust at the ends in time. I would imagine that Rover were just advising mechanics to get some new springs from stores rather than replacing used ones. That would make sense. As far as I am aware,we don't have the luxury of new springs do we?
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Post by Deleted on Sept 18, 2006 22:33:43 GMT
At last! I have managed to print a picture of brake shoes showing correct springs in place. My thanks to John, I can,t wait to get those drums off. Tony
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Post by dorsetflyer on Sept 19, 2006 9:32:22 GMT
Richard, I agree about the weight of the drum. Yesterday, I had my drum off, and having freed up the wheel cylinder and made sure everything was correct, I found that the drum would not go back on. After lining it up with the studs, and a bit of wriggling I got it on just over the studs. Careful tapping with a wooden block and lump hammer failed to get the drum to move. So I re-fitted the wheel nuts and gradually tightened them evenly. This put the drum fully back to its correct position, and I was able to get the c/sunk fixing screws back and tightened up. After removing the wheel nuts again, a few pumps on the foot pedal equalised everything up and I was able to rotate the drum and adjust the brakes.
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Post by Deleted on Sept 19, 2006 18:53:06 GMT
Thanks for that John, I might need that tip when I set to work on Saturday. My intention is to finish off the o/s then start all over again on the n/s using the experience built up so far. Should be a breeze !!
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Post by johnwp5bcoupe on Sept 19, 2006 20:53:36 GMT
If the adjusters are screwed right out there should be no problem fitting the drums even with new shoes , if everthing is put central they should just slide on no need to even pick up a hammer or force anything! as John says a few good pumps and then adjust as per manual.
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Post by Deleted on Sept 23, 2006 20:31:35 GMT
I am mega embarrassed it was simply a question of swopping the plungers top to bottom and it all went back like a dream and everything is working properly with the cylinder sliding on the backplate etc. I am now hoping for a pretty good handbrake. I then turned my attention to the N/S rear and that all came apart fairly easily with the two 1/4" UNC nuts offering little resistance.The cylinder had seized on the backplate and I should think that this must be the case in most of our cars that are not in constant use. I will now get on with the rebuild. As this sliding effect acts as a sort of additional compensating device, I would guess that rear brake efficiency would be affected by the cylinder being fixed. This probably also happens during uninformed servicing where the temptation would be to simply bring the nut up as tight as possible. As always happens when you finish a job with our cars, another one looms up There is a slight seepage of oil from the diff which has found its way past the seal. I actually replaced this seal on 6th Dec 1981 at 37358 (20000 miles ago) so I suppose a reasonable run for my efforts.The strange thing is that I have never replaced the O/S and that is as dry as a bone I know that it is a fairly straightforward job and the W/M says that only the brake pipe and handbrake linkage have to be removed so I assume the brake components etc come out with the shaft? I also remember that the seal is easily replaced in the housing. It would have been ideal to replace it now but I think I am too tight against the wall of the garage........ Does anybody know how long the N/S half shaft is?
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