Battery current drain

[Paul Harris]

If I leave my battery connected for more than a couple of days, it goes flat. I've tried another battery and that does the same, so it would appear to be a current drain somewhere. When connecting the battery, there is a click from under the bonnet which sounds like a relay. If anyone has any ideas I'd be grateful.

Also, I've just changed the High Tension leads, but was unable to change the coil to distributor lead, as it screws onto the distributor, instead of pushing on. Are leads available with a screw connection, or will I need to change the distributor when I want to change the lead?

Thanks in advance,

Paul

[Deleted]

:DTry removing the battery control fuse which will put out the courtesy light switches and clock both of which are often cases of slow current drain.

It could also be the the 6RA alternator field isolating relay which is next to the fuse box its oblong not the cylindical warning light can or the flat squarish regulator box.

Check the connexions on the realy then remove and see if battery then goes flat.

If this does not solve it then its a matter of testing each circuit with a sensitive ammeter to identify the crrent drain.

The coil "acorns" are readliy available from specialists such as Holdens and you can buy HT lead by the foot to make you own or just cut off the end - what year/model have you got?

[dorsetflyer]

That sounds like quite a large current leakage somewhere. Until you find the cause of this I would suggest you always remove the Negative earth connection at the battery after you have used the car. You don't want the car to suddenly burst in to flames.
I'm a little confused about the ticking you hear when connecting up the battery. If you are at the back in the boot how do you know it's in the engine compartment.
If you have a leak does it click or slightly spark at the battery terminals when you connect.
Alternatively get someone to connect the battery while you hold a wooden handle screwdriver against the starter relay, with your ear to the handle.
In fact using this as a stethoscope, if it is a relay you should be able to eliminate quite a few items.
Good luck as these these things can become very time consuming until it can be pinpointed.
If you have to use a voltmeter, take each fuse out in turn and connect the +ve terminal on the voltmeter to each side of the fuse terminal block in turn.
It could well be something on the interior circuits.
I personally had a rear courtesy light which was permanently on due to a short circuit. I never traced the fault so removed the offending bulb.

[Paul Harris]

Thanks very much for the replies. I'll try the suggestions and let you know how I get on. I noticed the click from under the bonnet because the car was in the garage at the time (front first), and the noise came from the far end of the garage. There doesn't seem to be a spark, just a click whenever the negative earth lead is touched against the battery terminal, or removed. I leave the battery disconnected when the car's not in use!

The car is a late 1972 P5B.

Thanks again

Paul

[Ed from Surrey (member 236)]

I had the same prob with the lead. Being one that never throwns anything away I took the connector off the old lead and swopped it for the one on the new lead. Probably saved me 50pence !!