Voltage Regulator defect?

[Peter Mueller]

My electrical problems don;t seem to end . Now it's the voltage regulator (or at least I think it is) that is playing up.

I was always told that the ammeter needle should be just into positive voltage, i.e., a smidgen to the right of the Zero. Unfortunately, in my case it is almost constantly near the top, i.e. +60, now. As this cannot be healthy I need to do something about it but is this necessarily the voltage regulator?

In the handbook it gives some indication of how to adjust it. A job I'd never be able to do so I would have to give that job to someone. On the other hand if that means the unit is knackered anyway and needs replacing, that is something I suppose I can do.

What is the solution

Thanks

Peter

[Smallfry]

While you can adjust the VOLTAGE, you cannot adjust the AMPERAGE, which is what your ammeter tells you, and bearing in mind that the maximum output of an 11AC alternator is 43 or 45 amps, your gauge is not accurate if its reading plus 60.

Is your battery OK ? Do you get through a lot of fuses ? Its difficult to get to the bottom of this without having the car in front of me.

It may be that alternator has gone open circuit. Where are you located ? If its not far you are welcome to try mine by substitution.

[Peter Mueller]

Dear Smallfry

Thanks for trying to find an answer to the problem and your generous offer to use your alternator as a benchmark. Unfortunately, I live in Cambridgeshire so Kent is a bit far.

You asked whether my battery is OK = yes, it is. At least it gives me no indication that it might not be. Also, do I get through a lot of fuses? No, I don't.

This is something I had before, about four or five years ago. At the time I gave the car to Ely Motors and they fitted a new regulator which seemed to do the trick. They also made that fault responsible for a couple of burnt through ignition cables and burnt out contacts in the distributor?!

In other words it has been fine for years and it does not go haywire all the time. Yesterday the ammeter needle remained in its normal position just in the positive but it can happen that all of a sudden it goes up to nearly 60 and stays there or goes back to normal. To my untrained eye there does not seem to be a discernible pattern to it.

[RichardF]

It's always a long shot diagnosing from afar; but it may worth looking at the relay. I have had the odd accasion when the ignition light remains on after engine start (even with revving it up). I found the culprit/s to be loose lucar connectors on the relay.

Richard
Southampton

[Phil Nottingham]

The 4 TR regulator could well be faulty as this can give a high current however where did you connect the hazard lights pick up to? This is the red (or black if its been replaced) square box next to the fuse box. Check all connections are clean and tight - have you disconected any cables recently?

There may be a serious problem and you should obtain a w/s manual as this gives the comprehensive tasting procedure which is staright forward with the right instruments

[Phil Nottingham]

PS a heavy charge with engine running can indicate a heavy load/or short as on the P5 and P5B the "battery" load does not pass through the ammeter. Remove the Battery fuse and then test

[Smallfry]

Phil is right, I didn't think of that

I would be inclined to carefully check the wiring around the alternator and associated gubbins, and also the starter motor for chafed wires or loose connections. Other than that, I would suggest that one of the charging components is faulty.

Intermittent faults are a real B****r to find !

I am happy to send you the alternator, regulator, relay, exciter if you want to try swapping them.
I do want them back though at some stage !

[Peter Mueller]

Wow, all these fantastic suggestions .

I will be away for a short while, though so it can take a couple of weeks until I will get down to doing something about this.

Whatever will happen, I will report back on what will have been done and what the outcome is.

Thanks

Peter

[Phil Nottingham]

I suggest you disconnect the battery when leaving unattended. If you have had this problem "repaired" before oit suggests that the cause was not rectified only the damage it caused

A battery master switch is a useful antitheft and safety feature on old cars with dodgy wiring