rcoups
Rover Fanatic
Posts: 148
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Post by rcoups on Feb 16, 2009 19:04:18 GMT
I was changing the starting solonoid on my 1966 mk3 and I thought I had disconected the battery, I was wrong. Had removed the old solonoid no problem at all and was fixing the new one to the bulk head with no wire connected when the battery wire touched on part of the body work and of course sparked like mad, I disconnected the battery straight away finished fixing the solonoid to the bulk head and wired it up. Now there is no ignition. no lights, I tried the horn and that doesnt work yet all the fuses are ok. Any ideas please
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Post by Phil Nottingham on Feb 16, 2009 19:19:18 GMT
Are you sure your main earth wire from battery to boot floor iws soind and not rsuty and any engeine earths.
Also have you recoonected the thinner loom cables to the live (battery) side of solenoid.
You should be able to get some power to at least the lights
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Post by dorsetflyer on Feb 16, 2009 19:54:02 GMT
Or maybe a totally dead battery?
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rcoups
Rover Fanatic
Posts: 148
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Post by rcoups on Feb 17, 2009 16:22:04 GMT
Got the engine to turn over from the starting solonoid but still no ignition. Is there any inline fuses from the ignition to the solonoid
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Post by Phil Nottingham on Feb 17, 2009 17:14:58 GMT
No - have you checked the cables have not broken assuming you have reconnected thme correctly to the the right terminal.
It may also be teh ignition switch - do you have lights?
Were these OK before
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rcoups
Rover Fanatic
Posts: 148
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Post by rcoups on Feb 17, 2009 18:21:18 GMT
Yes had ignition and lights lit up now theres nothing on ignition side
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Post by Phil Nottingham on Feb 17, 2009 19:46:22 GMT
Try running a shunt cable from the live terminal to the ignition accessory fuse (with green cables into it) to the double fuse box on the bulkhead
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rcoups
Rover Fanatic
Posts: 148
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Post by rcoups on Feb 18, 2009 16:44:10 GMT
Found the problem! I wired the solonoid wrong, just changed the battery wire and starter wire round and it all works. Now all I have to do is get power out from the coil. Tried different coils that I know work but not getting a spark, power is going to the coil but nothing coming out
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Post by Phil Nottingham on Feb 18, 2009 19:26:17 GMT
I think I suggested that in the first place? Thanks for letting us know anyway - the P5 and P5B wiring is simple as with most things on these cars even the auto boxes
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rcoups
Rover Fanatic
Posts: 148
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Post by rcoups on Feb 27, 2009 11:43:43 GMT
I have got the car going that is for a short while then it cuts out with no spark at the plugs. I have a new coil and leads but still have a jaguar lucas 45d6 distributor on the car whichhas electronic ignition. Will the fact that I have a 45d6 rather than the 25d6 dissy make a difference or is the electronic module breaking down, any cluesjavascript:add("%20: ")
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Post by Phil Nottingham on Feb 27, 2009 16:53:44 GMT
I doubt it but I have no faith in electronics at all as regards cars they are only just about fit to un the radio/tape player. It would not surprise me at all if it was the electronic unit. Get a late s/h dizzy from David Green and revert to points
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Post by dorsetflyer on Feb 27, 2009 19:58:25 GMT
If you revert back to a known working dizzy and points and the car starts and runs OK you have solved the problem. I wouldn't be surpirsed if the electronic bits were faulty as there may have been a massive spike either when you were changing the solenoid or when you connected it up incorrectly.
There is a lesson to be learnt here, NEVER ever work in the engine compartment like that without first disconnecting the battery.
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