rover3l123
Rover Fanatic
Originally from Llangollen area North Wales and relocated to the US in 1995 with the P5
Posts: 174
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Post by rover3l123 on Sept 2, 2012 2:47:12 GMT
I did a trial fit (no adhesive) of the new boot seal I sourced from Scotts Old Rubber. It seemed to go on easy enough, however, try as I may I could not get the boot to close. It is not a matter of just closing it with more pressure, it seems to be a long way from closing. I am not sure what I could have done wrong.
Has anyone fitted one of these successfully?
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Post by bebopdeluxe on Sept 2, 2012 6:23:17 GMT
You are going to get better answers then this but here is my 2 pennies.worth. New rubber does need bedding in. Have you tried to adjust the striking plate to allow the boot to shut more easily? You can always read adjust it after the rubber has bedded in.
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Post by johnwp5bcoupe on Sept 2, 2012 6:45:17 GMT
I did a trial fit (no adhesive) of the new boot seal I sourced from Scotts Old Rubber. It seemed to go on easy enough, however, try as I may I could not get the boot to close. It is not a matter of just closing it with more pressure, it seems to be a long way from closing. I am not sure what I could have done wrong. Has anyone fitted one of these successfully? The ones I have fitted have been no problem! have you got the rubber behind the lip on the rear panel? is it being a problem before it is fully closed?
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Sept 2, 2012 9:19:26 GMT
I need a new seal but I'm curious. Are these seals made as per O/E with a sponge centre? Please don't tell me they're solid rubber
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rover3l123
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Originally from Llangollen area North Wales and relocated to the US in 1995 with the P5
Posts: 174
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Post by rover3l123 on Sept 2, 2012 16:43:05 GMT
John I don't think it is the area at the rear with the lip as I tried a short spare piece of the seal on its own in that area and the boot lid closed as normal. I can get the lid within about 1/4 inch of closing and I feel strong resistance. No amount of pressure will work once I reach this point. I am suspecting it might be the areas where the seal has to be curved through 90 degrees at the four corners of the trunk. In these areas the seal edge of the seal seems to stick up rather than lying flat as it does in the straight sections of the trunk perimeter. I am not sure how to resolve this however, if it is the problems as the rubber naturally bends in this way when turned through 90 degrees. I am including some photographs of my trial install which I put back this morning after trialing the short length independently. CROSSPLIES The new seal is not exactly per OEM but it is foamed rather than solid rubber. I would say however that the foam density is less than OEM and hence the new seal is less compressible. I am inserting a photograph of the cross-section for you to see
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Sept 2, 2012 17:05:06 GMT
Thanks for posting that cross-section. If it's less dense should it not compress more easily? Back end and boot of your car look excellent .
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rover3l123
Rover Fanatic
Originally from Llangollen area North Wales and relocated to the US in 1995 with the P5
Posts: 174
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Post by rover3l123 on Sept 2, 2012 17:40:32 GMT
Thanks for the compliments. Sorry I meant to say that the foam has a higher density not lower. Certainly to the feel it is quite a bit harder than the original
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Post by bebopdeluxe on Sept 2, 2012 18:24:38 GMT
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rover3l123
Rover Fanatic
Originally from Llangollen area North Wales and relocated to the US in 1995 with the P5
Posts: 174
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Post by rover3l123 on Sept 2, 2012 19:20:29 GMT
I agree, the OEM one in that photograph seems to sit much "flatter". It would be interesting to see a photograph of one of the Scotts Old Rubber seals (like mine) fitted and where the boot closes correctly
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Post by bebopdeluxe on Sept 2, 2012 20:32:31 GMT
Whatever the reason it must be very frustrating Scott's normally fit well. Hopefully some of the more experienced forum members can help you out with some positive answers.
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Post by johnwp5bcoupe on Sept 2, 2012 20:33:48 GMT
I agree, the OEM one in that photograph seems to sit much "flatter". It would be interesting to see a photograph of one of the Scotts Old Rubber seals (like mine) fitted and where the boot closes correctly The old seals go soft and flatten so don't rely on what they look like If I get time tomorrow I will try and send you a couple of pics.
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Post by dmaxwell on Sept 3, 2012 0:10:39 GMT
The boot seal I got from Scotts fit well and the boot lid shut the first time with a nice thunk!
David
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rover3l123
Rover Fanatic
Originally from Llangollen area North Wales and relocated to the US in 1995 with the P5
Posts: 174
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Post by rover3l123 on Sept 3, 2012 2:20:23 GMT
Thanks everyone for the replies. Given that others have had success, I am not sure what the problem is in my case. John I would appreciate any photographs when you have time and David M. do your seals sit in the same orientation as mine shown in the photographs I posted.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Sept 3, 2012 7:41:52 GMT
I fitted a new seal to my boot and the boot wouldn't close no matter what I did. I slackened the bolts holding the hinges and reset the catch,although it closed it stood well proud,however after a few days like that it shut with everything tightened and adjusted as it should be. After a few days more it closed nicely.
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Post by bebopdeluxe on Sept 3, 2012 9:29:25 GMT
I fitted a new seal to my boot and the boot wouldn't close no matter what I did. I slackened the bolts holding the hinges and reset the catch,although it closed it stood well proud,however after a few days like that it shut with everything tightened and adjusted as it should be. After a few days more it closed nicely. Well that is more or less in agreement with what I said but tbh..........It should not have to be that difficult to fit according to some of the replies thus far.
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rover3l123
Rover Fanatic
Originally from Llangollen area North Wales and relocated to the US in 1995 with the P5
Posts: 174
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Post by rover3l123 on Sept 3, 2012 18:46:46 GMT
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Sept 3, 2012 21:35:03 GMT
An aerodynamic disaster at the moment . Yours could be the first P5 ever to lose a boot lid at speed Seriously, I hope it soon settles!
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rover3l123
Rover Fanatic
Originally from Llangollen area North Wales and relocated to the US in 1995 with the P5
Posts: 174
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Post by rover3l123 on Sept 4, 2012 2:30:56 GMT
I think I need to post a warning on the boot stating "Mind The Gap"
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theroveringmember
Rover Fanatic
P5B Saloon - P4 110 - P6B x2 - 2200TC - 2000TC (S1) 2000SC........How Many Is Too Many?
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Post by theroveringmember on Sept 4, 2012 5:18:21 GMT
That is a BIG gap. I recently fitted one too but the only problems I've had are with effective adhesive (I ran out of Bostik rubber adhesive). It fits well though & the boot is a little harder to close than before but half my old rubber was missing so I'm not surprised. The bootlid sits fine still. Strangely enough it's now easier to latch it by the number plate shroud rather than the handle.
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Post by johnwp5bcoupe on Sept 4, 2012 5:40:07 GMT
Sorry I didn't get time yesterday to take some pics but I will try today Looking at your first pictures the seal is not fitted correctly at the back it looks like it's standing up it should be laying down slightly? which would explain why the lid is sitting high as your trying to squash the rubber rather than laying the edge flat? also round the hinge corners again it's at the wrong angle. The gap if you stretch the seal slightly down each side and stick as you go and at the bottom you will make that up easily
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Post by Kev on Sept 4, 2012 16:45:28 GMT
Ah i have seen this mod before...........3rd pic It's like the Veyron flip up wing for aiding slowing down. Just flip a switch & the boot opens the other way & bingo...
Really tho, when i fitted a new boot seal it just took a bit of gentle force & the boot to be closed for a few days & it all settled down nicely.
Big Kev.
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rover3l123
Rover Fanatic
Originally from Llangollen area North Wales and relocated to the US in 1995 with the P5
Posts: 174
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Post by rover3l123 on Sept 4, 2012 17:40:15 GMT
Sorry I didn't get time yesterday to take some pics but I will try today Looking at your first pictures the seal is not fitted correctly at the back it looks like it's standing up it should be laying down slightly? which would explain why the lid is sitting high as your trying to squash the rubber rather than laying the edge flat? also round the hinge corners again it's at the wrong angle. The gap if you stretch the seal slightly down each side and stick as you go and at the bottom you will make that up easily John you are absolutely correct the corners do stick at right angles to straight sections. As this extrusion is straight it seems less conformable than original and does not want to naturally lie down at the corners. Would you advise gluing the corners first and can I ask what type of glue you used as it seems to me it would have to be very strong to hold the seal in place in the corners
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rover3l123
Rover Fanatic
Originally from Llangollen area North Wales and relocated to the US in 1995 with the P5
Posts: 174
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Post by rover3l123 on Sept 4, 2012 17:43:31 GMT
Ah i have seen this mod before...........3rd pic It's like the Veyron flip up wing for aiding slowing down. Just flip a switch & the boot opens the other way & bingo... Really tho, when i fitted a new boot seal it just took a bit of gentle force & the boot to be closed for a few days & it all settled down nicely. Big Kev. Kev I was thinking adding a GT badge on the boot and telling everyone that the raised boot lid is actually a cleverly designed integrated spoiler!!
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Post by johnwp5bcoupe on Sept 5, 2012 7:50:58 GMT
Sorry for the delay too many jobs on the go at once On the rear the rubber should lay flat it tends to change angle as you go round the opening but should all flatten when the boot is closed. The corners can be a pain best glue and when holding hold down at the correct angle using some masking tape and close the boot lid
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Post by enigmas on Sept 5, 2012 19:56:08 GMT
It can be made to fit. I have one of Scott's boot seals fitted to my car and it works fine but I did 'shim the locking mechanism' to allow for rubber compression. The rubber should compress relatively easily at the rear where you have the gap as there is quite a bit of leverage at this point. Return the hinge points to their original setting and shim the lock with some heavy card and it should work.
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