Time to start assembly then.
All parts must be spotlessly clean, and trial fitting the valves in the correct locations and checking the free movement is a good idea.
We left it here last.
Now it a case of refitting all the parts in the correct locations and in the correct order. Use new A.T.F. or Vas on the parts.
Firstly fit the Primary regulator valve.
Then the secondary regulator valve
Check these for free movement.
Then fit the springs.
Small diameter one in the right port
Large diameter one in the left port.
Then the primary regulator sleeve goes over the large spring, and into the port.
The end plate can then be replaced and secured by the three screws.
Take care when doing this as the spring has some tension to compress
You might need a torque screwdriver then as the settings for the correct torque ( 20 - 30 lbs in )
are quite low.
Then move back to the modulator and servo assemblies.
The book does give a measurement for the length of the two springs.
The modulator valve spring is given as 25mm long.
The servo valve spring is given as 28mm long.
Starting on the modulator side, fit the spring first, and ensure it goes fully home.
Then the modulator plug, small side in first.
Followed by the modulator valve itself.
Check the free movement of the assemblies, then cap it off with the retaining plug.
Hold the plug in position, and then refit the pin / dowel.
Then the other side.
Fit the servo valve flat end in first.
Followed by the spring. ( check free movement )
Then the stop can go back in.
You will have to manipulate the spring down to enable the stop to go fully home, or it may snag on the spring.
Move on then to the selector side of the body.
And refit the manual selector valve ( check free movement )
Then the throttle valve can go in ( narrow side first.)
Push the valve fully home.
Then the spring can go in from the right side, or you can fit it inside the valve and put them both in together.
Push or withdraw the valve and spring back a little so the stop plate can be fitted.
And refit the stop plate here.
Then the downshift spring can go in, or you can fit it with the downshift valve.
Then the downshift valve ( hollow side first )
And check the free movement of it all.
Push the valve fully home with one hand.
And whilst doing that refit the valve retainer.
The correct way around here.
The 3-2 restrictor spring and ball can go back in.
Use plenty of vas to hold it in its location, while.......
You refit the separation plate.
Smear a good coat of vas over the top of the plate.
This will help stick the components loosely in position while you locate each of the screws.
Upper valve body is next to be re-fitted.
fit this in its location, and loosely fit the two small screws.
Here.
Turn the body over and refit the five short and one long screw loosely for now.
The long screw goes here.
Then the oil tube collector plate can go back on.
Refit the screws loosely.
Again smear a coat of vas on the plate and this will help hold the single stand alone valve in place
as you have to turn the block over to fit the screws.
Turn the body over and re-fit the four screws.
The two short ones go in the well.
Then the kick down cam can be re-fitted.
I am going to go off on one here, as there are two types of cam fitted and this will depend on which type of cable / valve block / shift pattern you have.
Thanks to Harvey and his sharp eyes and experience he noticed mine was incorrect for my application.
I will explain a bit more here.
So the one i had fitted is shown here.
This type is used with the long type of kickdown cable, and is usually associated with the PRND2D1L shift pattern
The long type of cable terminates here ( Thank you JW for the Photo of the old girl )
The replacement cam is used with the short type kick down cable
The short type terminates here at the back of the cylinder head
And is associated with the PRND21 type of shift pattern ( Thank you CYF for the use of you picture )
On the picture you can see a common fault with the bracket in that the bush wears away ( circled red ) which leaves play in the cable set up.
Back to it then, the bracket can be re-fitted to the body, and it has a locating tab here.
Also ensure the cam is correctly fitted with the valve head, and is sprung in the correct direction. ( This is showing the long kick down cable type cam bracket position )
The next pictures shows the position for fitment if you are using the short type kick down cable cam bracket.
Once this is fitted all the screws can be tightened to the correct torque
20-30 lbs in.
The long oil pipe can then be re-fitted to the valve body.
It will only go one way around, press it back into position.
Then fit the correct filter for your application ( as mentioned earlier by Harvey )
In my case the flat type.
Refit the screws and tighten to the correct torque.
The three oil tubes can now go back in.
Replace the "o" ring seal on the biggest tube with a new one ( they come in the kit )
Make sure it is like for like, then refit the tube. Press fully home
The small tube next.
Again push fit
Lastly the medium tube can go in, push it home.
Well done, the valve block is now sorted and ready to be re-fitted to the main case.
Lube it up, and store it in a clean bag for now.
We can go back to the main case soon, and the re-fitting of the main internals.
Starting here with the forward sun gear shaft, and rear clutch hub.