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Post by eightofthem (Andy) on May 3, 2013 17:19:30 GMT
Valve block fitment it is then. we left off here. Firstly remove the three oil pipes from the valve block. They have to be fitted first here. The first to go in is the front pump inlet ( the biggest of the three ) has an oil seal fitted, the seal end goes into the pump house body end. Ensure it is fully home ( push fit ) Next is the smallest of the pipes for the convertor inlet Carefull here as this one goes the other side of the "casing bridge" not next to the big pipe! Then the medium sized tube for the front pump outlet goes in. Again all these are push fit, ensure they are fully home. At this stage you need the five shaped pipes. Blow them out and clean them, as you need to fit one of them now before the valve block goes back on. You can fit it later, but it is easier to fit now. You need this bad boy in next. This fits next to the big oil pipe, it is linked to the external oil cooler. Next remove the three bolts that retain the valve block to the case. You can now offer up the valve block, carefully engage each oil tube into its home And engage the manual selector valve into the selector arm. Then locate the valve block into its final position, and loosly locate the three bolts. At this point before the four remaining pipes go in, the front servo has to be set up ready for final adjustment. (This differs to the standard servo ) ( EDIT > SKIP THESE ADJUSTMENTS FOLLOW THE METHOD IN NEXT INSTALLMENT ) Remove the steel bracket that holds the spring. Then the adjusting screw has to protrude through the lever arm by 1/16 0r 1.59mm, enlist the help of a feeler gauge Next the spring has to be set on the adjustment screw. ( EDIT > SKIP THIS BIT AND SEE BELOW ) Again a feeler gauge set to 0-062 to 0.124in / 1.574 to 3.149mm And set the spring with the gauge from the back of the lever arm. ( EDIT > SKIP THIS BIT ALSO ) Then refit the bracket back on the servo, and engage the spring in the slot. The four remaining pipes can now go in. Rear servo pipe ( push fit ) clutch pipe ( push fit ) Front servo apply pipe ( push fit ) front servo release pipe ( push fit ) Ensure all the pipes are fully home. The three valve block bolts can now be tightened to the correct tourqe. 4-5 lbs ft / 50 to 60 lb in. The Kick down cable can also be re-fitted at this stage, but i am going to leave it off for now to prevent it getting damaged. Next up is the adjustment of the front and rear servos. Tea up!.
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Post by petervdvelde on May 3, 2013 20:54:33 GMT
Andy, I am surprised to see that you are using the mm scale instead of the inch scale. Will this lead to that you guys in the UK will switch to driving on the correct side (RH) of the road in the (near) future or do we ask to much Peter
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Post by eightofthem (Andy) on May 4, 2013 7:50:11 GMT
Peter, pound for pound I much prefer my pint to filled right to the top, or to the nearest mm.
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Post by harvey on May 5, 2013 13:54:20 GMT
You need to do the front band adjustment again. You need a 1/4" spacer in place not 1/8" or so that you used, and then once that's set you fit the spring so it's backed off two turns, which is roughly 1/8". You've only done half of it, the only reason you set the adjuster that far out in the firstplace is so that there's enough room to get the 1/4" spacer in, but so the head of the adjuster is still visible so you get the spacer in the correct place. Torque it up on the 1/4" spacer, then wind the spring fully on, and back it off two turns. Alternatively dispence with the 1/4" spacer, torque the adjuster, then back it off 4 full turns.
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Post by eightofthem (Andy) on May 5, 2013 18:48:51 GMT
I have been waiting for your comment Harvey, I was going to mail you on this, I guess the book I got the information from is incorrect, so I have held off the next instalment until I had some comments. It did concern me a bit, as the method described in the book seems a bit sketchy . I have the correct tools for the normal servo, I shall take a look at it if I get some shed time in
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Post by harvey on May 6, 2013 13:44:05 GMT
I have been waiting for your comment Harvey, I was going to mail you on this, I guess the book I got the information from is incorrect, so I have held off the next instalment until I had some comments. It did concern me a bit, as the method described in the book seems a bit sketchy . I have the correct tools for the normal servo, I shall take a look at it if I get some shed time in I fully understand that you like to introduce these little discrepancies just to make sure that I'm paying attention... You do the adjustment in the same way as you would for the early type with the locknut, but instead of locking up the nut you set the spring on the adjuster a couple of turns out, with the long tail of the spring set in the slider bracket. There are some online manuals I've seen that are full of mistakes.
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Post by eightofthem (Andy) on Jun 16, 2013 12:47:10 GMT
Sorry to all who have been following this thread, it has been a while since the last installment, what with MOT s due, holidays, magpies and other things it has been sidelined for a while. Suitably refreshed with tea, and armed with more pictures and info, off we go again !. Last time it finished at the front servo adjustment, which i found a pain in the ar5e, there is not enough room with the self adjustment bracket fitted to carry out the method properly, so my saviour came to my rescue again, with as always some good practical advice. Cheers Harvey. Lets look at this unlucky for some front servo then. The correct tool for udjusting the front servo looks like this. As this tool is hard to find and not available to most, the method I will show here is not only the easiest, but also carried out without the use of the special tool. Firstly remove the servo retaining bolt, self adjusting bracket, and pipe. Once these are removed, refit the servo retaining bolt and nip it up a bit. You then need to torque the adjuster to the correct setting ( 10 lbf in ) I am using the tool because i have it to hand, but you can improvise here with your own tools. As you can see, the special adjuster is "U" shaped to aid turning the adjuster head, which is a square type head, but a suitable star type or multipoint socket can be made to fit, The special tool can only move one turn at a time before you have to reposition it. Anyway torque it up to the correct setting. Once this is torqued up, mark or make a note of the postion of the adjuster arm. Then unwind the adjuster arm four full turns. ( the spring will unwind with it ) As you can see from the picture i have fitted the correct spacer in place after using this method, so it works out ok. Thanks Harvey. You then need to wind the spring down tight against the servo lever arm,whilst holding the head of the adjuster nut to stop it turning. When the spring is tight against the servo, unwind it again TWO full turns Once satisfied with the positioning, the spring needs to be turned so the long arm can engage in the bracket. Hold the adjuster head when you do this to stop it turning with it. And then remove the one servo retaing bolt to refit the bracket. Refit the bracket, and engage the spring into the slot. Refit the servo pipe. Then tighten the servo bolt to the correct torque setting ( 9 - 12 lbs ft ) That will do for now Pheeew, not used to all this P.C work, my bum has gone numb, and and i need a brew. I think next time the kick down cable will go in, so until then........
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Post by harvey on Jun 17, 2013 14:43:29 GMT
The self adjuster spring looks a bit far away from the servo.
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Post by eightofthem (Andy) on Jun 17, 2013 17:06:45 GMT
Yes Harvey it is one thread more upwards than when I removed it at strip down. I wound the spring tight against the servo arm before unwinding four turns after torquing up the adjuster. Is there a set distance from the servo arm?.
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Post by harvey on Jun 17, 2013 17:21:23 GMT
Once the servo has been set, wind the spring all the way up to the servo, and then back it off two turns.
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Post by eightofthem (Andy) on Jun 17, 2013 18:23:48 GMT
Ahh that would be why it is so far back, the spring wound out four full turns with the adjuster. I have the box in the spare room at the moment, and the sump is still off, as I had a tinker with it yesterday So I will adjust it and edit the above post. Thank you Harvey.
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Post by enigmas on Jun 17, 2013 22:13:58 GMT
Fantastic effort in the recording of the BW35 rebuild Andy. As an aside, does anyone have any historical knowledge as to why the 'spring' adjuster on the front servo was deleted. I have only seen them on early versions of the BW35 box (c.1960s) mainly in low hp applications.
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Post by harvey on Jun 18, 2013 14:11:37 GMT
As an aside, does anyone have any historical knowledge as to why the 'spring' adjuster on the front servo was deleted. I have only seen them on early versions of the BW35 box (c.1960s) mainly in low hp applications. If you mean ^^^that^^^ type, that's the later self adjusting servo, fitted in place of the locknut found on the early ones. I can't think of anything else if that's not what you're referring to.
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Post by enigmas on Jun 18, 2013 18:48:15 GMT
That's it Harvey. Does it actually work?
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Post by harvey on Jun 18, 2013 18:53:08 GMT
That's it Harvey. Does it actually work? Yep, they work well.
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Post by enigmas on Jun 19, 2013 1:21:55 GMT
Harvey, I can't actually see how that either maintains the setting or enables automatic adjustment? It just looks like a spring wound around the thread with one end fixed at the bracket but the other end free to rotate. How does this maintain a specific setting?
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Post by harvey on Jun 19, 2013 15:24:35 GMT
Once it's initially set the tail of the spring runs down the sloped groove on the bracket gradually tightening the adjuster to maintain the correct clearance as the band wears.
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Post by norvin on Jun 19, 2013 18:29:24 GMT
I would of loved to have had ago at stripping down my auto box but could not face trying to remove it in my garage, but I am happy with what Harry has done as I have not put any oil in it since picking it up last September, but it still just bangs a bit when going into reverse even with the Idle quite low, I have read that this can be the slack being taken up in the transmission! it's so nice not to have to check the oil every time you use the car and topping up with pints of oil.
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Post by eightofthem (Andy) on Jun 20, 2013 18:30:14 GMT
Front servo setting now ammended We left off here last time, at the fitting of the kickdown cable. I don,t know if it supposed to have a sealing ring fitted, the old one did not have one, and the new one did not come with one fitted. Fairly straightforward to fit, slip the cable inside the hole, then wind in the nut ( let the cable spin around when winding it down, and take care not to cross thread ) Once the outer cable is secured in the case, take up some slack in the inner cable, and roll the kickdown cam forward to help engage the end of the inner into the cam. In it goes, not to painful You can check the operation by pulling the clevis end out of the inner shield, and watch the cam move. Here is a picture of the cam at rest, cable slack. And here is a picture of the cam with the inner cable pulled tight. You will need to adjust and set this cable when you have the transmission refitted into your car, and once satisfied with the adjustments, you have a small collar to crimp around the inner cable at a preset distance. The next item to go on is the sump. Use some vas around the gasket mating surface to help keep it in place. Line up the new gasket, and fit around the correct way to the notches in the sump. Line up the holes for the sump bolts. Then refit the sump the correct way around, those notches go to the rear. Locate all 15 sump bolts, including those two specials that help retain the oil cooler pipe clips. Then wind them all in and torque them up to the correct setting ( 8 - 10 lbs ft ) The inhibitor switch can also be refitted now, or do later when fitted in the car,as the terminals are damaged real easy. Fit a new sealing ring. Little bit of vas on the threads, and then wind it into the case. No need to tighten it fully yet, as it too will need to be adjusted after fitting to the car. Also if you have not done so already, fit a new manual selector seal. Use some vas to help fitting, and tap it home using the old seal as a guide. That will do for now. I think next time the tail cone can go on. Starting here next time then. Tea up!
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Post by harvey on Jun 20, 2013 18:59:09 GMT
the fitting of the kickdown cable. I don,t know if it supposed to have a sealing ring fitted, the old one did not have one, and the new one did not come with one fitted. They have a fibre washer. Also I'd fit the crimp to the cable while you have the sump off, that way you can be sure there's no slack, but it's not holding the valve open. When you pull the cable all the way out you should be able to feel it operating the kickdown as it gets towards the end of its travel.
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Post by harvey on Jun 20, 2013 19:06:39 GMT
That's the latest type inhibitor switch, and you set it on the bench before you fit it to the box. That groove in the plunger needs to be set a specific distance out, so that the groove is just visible when the plunger is pushed in against it's stop. If it disappears inside the body then the plunger needs to be pulled out a bit, and the WM explains the way to do that easier than I can without pics. You only get a certain number of resets before it needs a new switch.
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Post by eightofthem (Andy) on Jun 20, 2013 19:38:11 GMT
Thanks Harvey, I will look in to that, you are too quick for me, or my laptop is too slow!. I have had a real mare posting this next instalment, either the server is slow or my laptop is, I have given up now and reverted to the I pad. I will have to edit it again, as it missed the bit about refitting the sump, tired now. # EDIT # The following refers to the later type of inhibitor switch as mentioned by Harvey, the adjustment for these are as follows: Firstly measure the length of the plunger from the end of the thread. You are looking for a length of 14.28mm / 9/16in. As you can see this one is a long way from that. So to alter the setting to achieve the correct length, you have to press in the plunger, and sort of flick it out, so the plunger comes out further each time. Untill you get the correct length. As the book quoted, if the correct length is not obtained, renew the switch. Sorry i can,t show the old type switch, i do not have one.
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Post by harvey on Jun 20, 2013 19:47:07 GMT
I have had a real mare posting this next instalment, either the server is slow or my laptop is I don't think it's you, I've been finding it slow to load up in normal browsing.
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Post by eightofthem (Andy) on Jun 21, 2013 15:24:40 GMT
Starting at the rear end now, we left off here last time. As the governor has already been fitted, the next part to go on is the speedo drive worm. Slip it on the output shaft, as far as it will go. Then fit a new gasket. Bit of vas to help keep it in place. Then fit to the case, like so. The tail cone can now go back on. Fit the four 9/16 multipoint bolts, and also the clip which is held by this bolt, and then tighten the bolts to 8 - 10 lbs ft. The output shaft can then go on. Use some thread lock on the rear flange bolt. Lock the gearbox by placing in park, and torque the bolt to 20 - 25 lbs ft It is starting to look like a transmission again now. ( and becoming heavy and awkward again. ) And not much left to do. Starting here next time, the rear brake band needs to be adjusted. OOOOO, cup of tea and an egg custard tart, nice.
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Post by eightofthem (Andy) on Jun 23, 2013 8:58:10 GMT
Right then, lets have a look at that rear brake band adjustment. We were here last time. To adjust this when it is fitted in the car requires the center console to be removed for easier access, a bit of work just for this, so i guess a lot of owners tend to pass this over and leave it. You also need a tool to aid adjustment, you can improvise overcome and adapt to make one of your own quite a few ideas nocking around out there. Here is my effort. It is a sump plug, with the right size square. It will need modifying in your own special way. The threads fitted inside a 30 mm nut, so I just tacked it to the nut so a torque wrench can be fitted to the 30mm nut for correct torque setting, but you can find a method that is best for you. ( you could find two nuts of the correct thread and fit them to the sump plug if you do not have a welder, then just lock them off ) Once you have your new special tool ready for work, the locknut needs to be undone. Then you need your new tool thingy. Make sure the locknut has enough slack, then torque the adjuster nut to 10 lbs ft. After this is done, you need to undo the adjuster nut one full turn. Once satisfied, hold the adjuster head and tighten up the locknut. Torque it to 25 - 30 lbs ft. If the box is still in the vehicle, the center console can then be refitted, and now would be a good time to check out the gear linkage bushes and settings, and also the condition of the spherical bush inside the gear selector. On the home straight now. Final part next time.
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