I think you can adjust the rear band with the box in the car, but would it ever need to be adjusted?
Checking the adjustment will just take up any small amount of wear on the band. If you check it and the adjuster goes up a long way then it's a sign of other problems such as the band delaminating or the servo cracked or falling off.
IIRC there isn't an access hole in the tunnel cover, so it would either mean taking that off, or doing it from underneath, which should be do-able with a bit of effort.
Only criticism your hands are toooooooooooooooo clean
Must be all that Vaseline John.
Posted by norvin3 hours ago I think you can adjust the rear band with the box in the car, but would it ever need to be adjusted? how on earth did you get it so clean I know they do need to be well CLEAN!.
Post by eightofthem (Andy) on Jun 26, 2013 17:01:47 GMT
Righty o then, the final installment hoorah i hear you say The final part to go on is the bellhouse.
No drama to be had here, just look it over for any cracks where the stone guards locate, then refit in the correct position. Little smear of vas around the mating surfaces, then refit all the bolts finger tight before tourqing them up to 8 - 10 lbs ft.
You should be left with the bellhouse in this position, the remaining bolts left are to secure the selector rod slide bracket.
Job done, I hope!.
So it all started here. With a right mess.
And has finished here.
Before I go, just like to say a few thanks to all who followed, and commented on my ramblings, I would like to say a special THANKS, and hats off to Harvey for all of his help and support, without which I would not have attempted this epic, cheers bud, i owe you a few. . I would also like to thank the wife for the endless trekks to the shed with tea and biscuits, and sometimes cake!, I would like to thank my agent, my parents, make up, costume dept................................................................................................ ................................
I have a problem with my T35 after the rebuild and thought i would post the issue for you guidance. First i would like to thank Andy for a fantastic job on the detail of the rebuild and i would also like to let you know i don't have a Rover but a 1965 Rambler Classic 770 with a 199 OHC engine and a T35 transmission. With the exception of a Rear pump and the throttle cable being different (and a few other minor things) it looks all the same. That being said i am looking for some help. I have posted this as well on an AMC Rambler site but T35s experts are hard to come by. Thank you in advanced for you guidance.
Here is what I have.
1. Transmission would move forward in drive slowly at higher RPMs
2. Reversed worked correctly
3. Could feel the shift from park to neutral and neutral to park.
4. Could feel the shift from neutral to reverse.
5. When shifting to drive one or two there was no forward movement at the shift point.
During the rebuild:
1. Found no pilot bearing for the front of the torque converter. New pilot bushing installed
2. Most of the clutches were burnt. Clutches and steals replaced
3. There was no lower cover for the torque converter. New lower cover fabricated and installed.
4. Found body was filled with sludge. Valve body was thoroughly cleaned and re-installed.
5. Rear pump key was broken off on the sun shaft so the rear pump was an active at all. New key was installed.
6. Sun gear was severely worn. Sun gear and shaft replaced.
7. Planetary set bushing was severely worn. Planetary was replaced.
8. Rear pump was binding on case and would not turn. Case was replaced.
9. All seals, belts and thrust washers were replaced.
10. Sprag clutch looked in good condition so it was not removed just thoroughly cleaned. It turned one way freely and locked in the other opposite direction.
11. Torque converter was rebuilt by transmission shop and re-installed
Things I didn't change:
1. The governor was not replaced just cleaned and re-installed
2. Linkage cable to throttle control was not replaced
3. Internal linkage was not replaced just use the ones that came in the new case.
1. when shifting from park to reverse you can feel the shift the car starts to move backwards
2. when shifting from reverse to neutral, neutral seems to be engaged no forward movement.
3. When shifting from neutral to D2 don't feel any change in the transmission no forward movement no feel of engagement at all.
4. When shifting from D2 to D1 again no change in the transmission no forward movement no feel of engagement at all.
What I'm doing now:
1. I will be resetting the shifting linkage putting the car in low and making sure that I'm in low and reset the linkage.
2. Set the throttle cable, on a cold engine set the free play on the pin and adjusted cable 2 full turns.
What else should I be doing? if I still don't get any movement, I will pull the VB and clean it again and see if that works.
What strange to me is that after the full rebuild the symptoms are identical, is having a reverse but no forward gear any kind of indication that there something else wrong possibly in the torque tube or the rear end? I wouldn't think so but given that it's almost a new transmission with just about everything being replaced with the exception of very few things it's either because I did the exact same wrong thing as the previous builder did or the problem was something outside the transmission?? Any thoughts or suggestions are greatly appreciated thank you
I did not have the specific tool for this model so that may be it? I used a very thin plastic disc a bit larger then a CD. Oiled it with Vas and rolled it on edge around the seal a few times until the piston dropped in. But i did pressure test it and the piston did move and i didn't notice any leaks. I just find it strange that the same symptom before and after the rebuild. It seems all the work and i didn't change a thing. But it could have been a bad seal to start with and i could have messed up the seal installation again. That is why i am asking before i pull the transmission again. Appreciate all you guidance. Mark
Post by eightofthem (Andy) on Sept 1, 2014 15:31:57 GMT
I tried the lip wizard to fit the piston seals, I also tried the cone and freeze method, both do work although it is a real fiddle with the lip wizard, the cone and freeze is much better, but there is no substitute for the correct piston seal installers, whilst the other options do the job, you can never be sure that the seals have not rolled, or been nipped whilst using them, and whilst they might work under air pressure on the bench, it will be a different story when under full working conditions inside the box. With the correct installers, you know that part has been done right. I am not trying to point the finger at the piston seals, it may well be something else at fault.
Thank you very much i do understand the issue with the installation of the seal, just looking for anything else i can check or test before i pull the transmission again. Any last chance suggestions, tests i can do to isolate the problem with the Pan off? I was thinking if there was a test to see if it is something with the Valve body, (easier to pull that then the entire transmission.). Thank you again.