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Post by johnwp5bcoupe on Jun 23, 2013 10:19:27 GMT
Great work Andy Only criticism your hands are toooooooooooooooo clean
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Post by harvey on Jun 23, 2013 12:21:29 GMT
Make sure the locknut has enough slack, then torque the adjuster nut to 10 lbs ft. After this is done, you need to undo the adjuster nut one full turn. Back the adjuster off one turn for a used band, but only 3/4 of a turn for a new one.
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Post by eightofthem (Andy) on Jun 23, 2013 15:52:40 GMT
Good tip Harvey.
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Post by norvin on Jun 23, 2013 16:52:13 GMT
I think you can adjust the rear band with the box in the car, but would it ever need to be adjusted? how on earth did you get it so clean I know they do need to be well CLEAN!.
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Post by harvey on Jun 23, 2013 18:13:38 GMT
I think you can adjust the rear band with the box in the car, but would it ever need to be adjusted? Checking the adjustment will just take up any small amount of wear on the band. If you check it and the adjuster goes up a long way then it's a sign of other problems such as the band delaminating or the servo cracked or falling off. IIRC there isn't an access hole in the tunnel cover, so it would either mean taking that off, or doing it from underneath, which should be do-able with a bit of effort.
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Post by eightofthem (Andy) on Jun 23, 2013 20:25:07 GMT
Great work Andy Only criticism your hands are toooooooooooooooo clean Must be all that Vaseline John. Quote # Posted by norvin3 hours ago I think you can adjust the rear band with the box in the car, but would it ever need to be adjusted? how on earth did you get it so clean I know they do need to be well CLEAN!. Bloody hard work!
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Post by eightofthem (Andy) on Jun 26, 2013 17:01:47 GMT
Righty o then, the final installment hoorah i hear you say The final part to go on is the bellhouse. No drama to be had here, just look it over for any cracks where the stone guards locate, then refit in the correct position. Little smear of vas around the mating surfaces, then refit all the bolts finger tight before tourqing them up to 8 - 10 lbs ft. You should be left with the bellhouse in this position, the remaining bolts left are to secure the selector rod slide bracket. Job done, I hope!. So it all started here. With a right mess. And has finished here. Before I go, just like to say a few thanks to all who followed, and commented on my ramblings, I would like to say a special THANKS, and hats off to Harvey for all of his help and support, without which I would not have attempted this epic, cheers bud, i owe you a few. . I would also like to thank the wife for the endless trekks to the shed with tea and biscuits, and sometimes cake!, I would like to thank my agent, my parents, make up, costume dept................................................................................................ ................................ OOOOOO, I almost forgot Thanks boys Until next time
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Post by johnwp5bcoupe on Jun 26, 2013 17:30:21 GMT
A Great article well done Andy Fingers are still toooooooooooooooo clean I wont comment on the Vaseline
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Post by norvin on Jun 26, 2013 17:34:02 GMT
It looks fantastic, just wish that I had the guts to have had a go at mine it has to be one of the most satisfying things to have done to the car.
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Post by Warwick on Jun 27, 2013 7:30:04 GMT
I admire the care and attention you lavish on your gearbox Andy. However, that's no way to treat a wheelbarrow. You're clearly spending too much time indoors.
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Post by eightofthem (Andy) on Jun 27, 2013 18:30:48 GMT
I admire the care and attention you lavish on your gearbox Andy. However, that's no way to treat a wheelbarrow. You're clearly spending too much time indoors. hee hee.
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Post by petervdvelde on Jun 27, 2013 19:48:49 GMT
Hello Andy,
Excellent thread and very clear pictures!
Warwick,
If you take a good look at the wheelbarrow, you see grass in it so i guess this must be a new trend in the UK and it called a mobile garden.
Peter
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Post by eightofthem (Andy) on Jun 28, 2013 14:05:24 GMT
The garden is the wife's domain, I am just the labourer. Seems the old barrow is a bit of a star, I should start a blog If you have a look at page one of this saga, you will see the old barrow buried in snow poor thing, instant igloo I wonder if there is a law against cruelty to wheel barrows?. I'd better be careful eh
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Post by Warwick on Jul 2, 2013 3:40:23 GMT
I didn't spot that. Did you give the wheel to JohnW for a Rostyle-type refurb?
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kaiser
Rover Fanatic
worth his V8 in gold!
Posts: 136
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Post by kaiser on Jul 28, 2013 6:09:49 GMT
I think this is a fantastic piece of work, professional to a T. I am going to take my box apart in the P6 as it has developed some clunks and wants to do things in "P"? This is going to be so much more fun than I ever imagined. Wish I could do something with the overall gearing, like add another gear or an OD though. I wonder if that is at all possible? But top job, and hat off!. Marvelous photos!
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Post by johnwp5bcoupe on Jul 28, 2013 7:43:01 GMT
I think this is a fantastic piece of work, professional to a T. I am going to take my box apart in the P6 as it has developed some clunks and wants to do things in "P"? This is going to be so much more fun than I ever imagined. Wish I could do something with the overall gearing, like add another gear or an OD though. I wonder if that is at all possible? But top job, and hat off!. Marvelous photos! If you are a member you will find one answer in the Members section
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Post by eightofthem (Andy) on Jul 28, 2013 8:48:29 GMT
I think this is a fantastic piece of work, professional to a T. I am going to take my box apart in the P6 as it has developed some clunks and wants to do things in "P"? This is going to be so much more fun than I ever imagined. Wish I could do something with the overall gearing, like add another gear or an OD though. I wonder if that is at all possible? But top job, and hat off!. Marvelous photos! If you are a member you will find one answer in the Members section Or another answer here. roverp5.proboards.com/thread/7544/zf-4hp22
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Post by johnwp5bcoupe on Jul 28, 2013 10:43:41 GMT
Sorry Andy I forgot about your ZF box there is one just like it on Fleabay
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Post by mspencer100 on Aug 31, 2014 18:34:21 GMT
I have a problem with my T35 after the rebuild and thought i would post the issue for you guidance. First i would like to thank Andy for a fantastic job on the detail of the rebuild and i would also like to let you know i don't have a Rover but a 1965 Rambler Classic 770 with a 199 OHC engine and a T35 transmission. With the exception of a Rear pump and the throttle cable being different (and a few other minor things) it looks all the same. That being said i am looking for some help. I have posted this as well on an AMC Rambler site but T35s experts are hard to come by. Thank you in advanced for you guidance.
Here is what I have.
Original Symptoms
1. Transmission would move forward in drive slowly at higher RPMs
2. Reversed worked correctly
3. Could feel the shift from park to neutral and neutral to park.
4. Could feel the shift from neutral to reverse.
5. When shifting to drive one or two there was no forward movement at the shift point.
During the rebuild:
1. Found no pilot bearing for the front of the torque converter. New pilot bushing installed
2. Most of the clutches were burnt. Clutches and steals replaced
3. There was no lower cover for the torque converter. New lower cover fabricated and installed.
4. Found body was filled with sludge. Valve body was thoroughly cleaned and re-installed.
5. Rear pump key was broken off on the sun shaft so the rear pump was an active at all. New key was installed.
6. Sun gear was severely worn. Sun gear and shaft replaced.
7. Planetary set bushing was severely worn. Planetary was replaced.
8. Rear pump was binding on case and would not turn. Case was replaced.
9. All seals, belts and thrust washers were replaced.
10. Sprag clutch looked in good condition so it was not removed just thoroughly cleaned. It turned one way freely and locked in the other opposite direction.
11. Torque converter was rebuilt by transmission shop and re-installed
Things I didn't change:
1. The governor was not replaced just cleaned and re-installed
2. Linkage cable to throttle control was not replaced
3. Internal linkage was not replaced just use the ones that came in the new case.
Current symptoms::
1. when shifting from park to reverse you can feel the shift the car starts to move backwards
2. when shifting from reverse to neutral, neutral seems to be engaged no forward movement.
3. When shifting from neutral to D2 don't feel any change in the transmission no forward movement no feel of engagement at all.
4. When shifting from D2 to D1 again no change in the transmission no forward movement no feel of engagement at all.
What I'm doing now:
1. I will be resetting the shifting linkage putting the car in low and making sure that I'm in low and reset the linkage.
2. Set the throttle cable, on a cold engine set the free play on the pin and adjusted cable 2 full turns.
What else should I be doing? if I still don't get any movement, I will pull the VB and clean it again and see if that works.
What strange to me is that after the full rebuild the symptoms are identical, is having a reverse but no forward gear any kind of indication that there something else wrong possibly in the torque tube or the rear end? I wouldn't think so but given that it's almost a new transmission with just about everything being replaced with the exception of very few things it's either because I did the exact same wrong thing as the previous builder did or the problem was something outside the transmission?? Any thoughts or suggestions are greatly appreciated thank you
Mark
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Post by harvey on Aug 31, 2014 19:06:30 GMT
If you have no forward drive at all in any of the forward selector positions, (and the selector linkage is correctly adjusted), but reverse works as it should, then you have a front clutch fault.
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Post by mspencer100 on Aug 31, 2014 20:41:16 GMT
Thanks Harvey, would this be with the Valve body, or the clutch pack itself?
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Post by harvey on Aug 31, 2014 21:27:02 GMT
Thanks Harvey, would this be with the Valve body, or the clutch pack itself? I would think it's a fault in the clutch drum, probably the outer seal. Did you use the correct installer, and did you air test it before you fitted it?
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Post by mspencer100 on Aug 31, 2014 22:52:01 GMT
I did not have the specific tool for this model so that may be it? I used a very thin plastic disc a bit larger then a CD. Oiled it with Vas and rolled it on edge around the seal a few times until the piston dropped in. But i did pressure test it and the piston did move and i didn't notice any leaks. I just find it strange that the same symptom before and after the rebuild. It seems all the work and i didn't change a thing. But it could have been a bad seal to start with and i could have messed up the seal installation again. That is why i am asking before i pull the transmission again. Appreciate all you guidance. Mark
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Post by eightofthem (Andy) on Sept 1, 2014 15:31:57 GMT
I tried the lip wizard to fit the piston seals, I also tried the cone and freeze method, both do work although it is a real fiddle with the lip wizard, the cone and freeze is much better, but there is no substitute for the correct piston seal installers, whilst the other options do the job, you can never be sure that the seals have not rolled, or been nipped whilst using them, and whilst they might work under air pressure on the bench, it will be a different story when under full working conditions inside the box. With the correct installers, you know that part has been done right. I am not trying to point the finger at the piston seals, it may well be something else at fault.
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Post by mspencer100 on Sept 1, 2014 16:57:12 GMT
Thank you very much i do understand the issue with the installation of the seal, just looking for anything else i can check or test before i pull the transmission again. Any last chance suggestions, tests i can do to isolate the problem with the Pan off? I was thinking if there was a test to see if it is something with the Valve body, (easier to pull that then the entire transmission.). Thank you again.
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