D Post pictures required

[Steve P5b]

Just completed a search for 'D post pictures' 800 days
Result - not very much a bout the 'd post'.
Does anyone have detailed pictures of a 'd post' as I need to repair mine as it corroded away . I'm going to have a go at fabricating the parts but I'm not too sure how it should look.
Thanks

[petervdvelde]

Here 2 pictures of my repairs. My P5 shell is still empty and unpainted so if you require pictures of specific area's, please let me know.
Peter

[petervdvelde]

ADMIN: Peter, you need to click on the sixth icon from the right (next to the clapperboard image, looks like a countryside picture) and paste your http address in the window that opens. Your should see it displayed before you post. HTH




another last attempt

[petervdvelde]

[Steve P5b]

Hi, Peter, yes thank you.
I can see you are realy doing some splendid work to your car, as I recall you have made parts, they look proffesional.

The area I'm interested in is where the inner and outer sections of the 'D post' meet, at the very edge.





On my car I seem to have additional flanges that should not be there, and as I have clearence issues with the door and rust, it needs to be made good. So if you could please possibly take a picture or two of this area to give an indication of the shape and profile it would much appreciated.
As you can see, this area both sides has had very poor quality repairs in the past and spoil the appearence. It's time to make good if I can.




Many thanks

[Steve P5b]

[petervdvelde]

i bought my D post panels with Wadhams and these fitted well. Attached some more pics. If you need more details, please let me know. Admin thanks for your assistance
Peter

[Steve P5b]

Lovely , many thanks

[barryr]

Mine were JRW also. Thicker and fit well.

[Chuck Berry]

Steve, how is the projects going?   Any more details you could add for putting into Take Five.  
This would be a great article to expand on.

In preparation for the How To articles there are three main sections, Mechanical, Electrical and bodywork.  It is the body work section that should generate the most interest.
 
So anyone else doing a similar job?   please get in touch, hope straightforward answers? 

I have just been looking at my beast, and found the 'B' post alsmost "floating", the post shaking when the door shuts. support at the bottom was never there after a previous bad repair.  The work on that will be documented as well.  Hopefully starting in January.  

[Steve P5b]

Thanks to Peter for posting his pictures I muddled through with a new d posts from wadhams in 16 gauge and made the inner and a few other parts.





While under there off came the flaky dried out under seal










Then it was part of the boot floor





Removing the tow bar revealed this
















Quite glad that I didn't tow anything with this, and shows not to rely on an MOT as had just passed 3 weeks previous.
I would say Chuck that it's probably best to assume you will find rusted parts when you begin to investigate, expect the worst and if it's not bad it's a bonus.

[Deleted]

The Y bushes on the rear spring look to have been made up using engine mounts or similar. Did you make them or was it like it already?

[Steve P5b]

Hi Kev, nice avatar picture, were you doing some fine adjustment to something under the bonnet or getting angry with something? makes me laugh when I see it.
No the rubbers were on the car and in good condition so I put them back, I think they are engine mountings though, I'm none to sure it makes any difference.
Most cars with leaf springs seem to have some kind of shackle arrangement, why rover used this idea is to absorb "stuff" I suppose.

[Phil Nottingham]

LR gearbox mounts were the favourites for many years but they no longer last very long

[petervdvelde]

Steve,

Nice work you did there!. Lots of familiar area's and rust. Could you please post a picture of how your towbar is fitted.
I was thinking about fitting one to my car and saw a "Watling" towbar which was only fitted to the bumper brackets. Where is it mounted on your car?
Regards

Peter

[Steve P5b]

Hi Peter, I did not fit the tow bar onto the car as there are new regulations regarding tow bar type approval,( not sure if it applies to older cars etc.) and as I don't need one thought best to leave it off.
Here are a few pictures of one type I saw at a local show, hope this is what you are looking for.

[petervdvelde]

Thanks for the pictures, Steve

The Watling one was much more simple. I see they still make these at Watling. Does anybody has experience with the Watling towbars?
Here in holland, you also need certified towbars is the car is younger then 1998 so the P5 don't need a certified towbar but an uncertified towbar can only pull something until 750kg and not heavier.


Peter

[Deleted]

A bit worrying to to think that car had an MOT,the repair looks a sound job nicely done. My Avatar picture was taken when the car broke down on the way to a show,my missus took it.
I did some searching on the use of gearbox or engine mounts to replace the Y mounts.I think why the new ones don't last is basically because they just aren't made very well and as with a lot of things various part numbers have been absorbed into a 'one part fits all' product.

[Deleted]

Dec 20, 2013 10:43:14 GMT @kevbacon said:

A bit worrying to to think that car had an MOT,the repair looks a sound job nicely done. My Avatar picture was taken when the car broke down on the way to a show,my missus took it.
I did some searching on the use of gearbox or engine mounts to replace the Y mounts.I think why the new ones don't last is basically because they just aren't made very well and as with a lot of things various part numbers have been absorbed into a 'one part fits all' product.

There are two main reasons why the "Y" mounts don't last that long. The first is that the rubber composition has changed due to changes in what is allowed in modern rubber so, unfortunately, it doesn't seem to have the strength of the old "metalastic" compound and the second reason is that most rear springs have some degree of sagging therefore imparting a shearing force on the rubber for which it isn't designed.

The ones I've ordered and used from JRW are like NOS to look at and well made but with the two disadvantages which can't be helped. Having springs with good camber is probably the most important way to preserve the "Y" bush but they fairly easy to replace anyway.

[stantondavies]

Engine mounts are designed for compression which makes less suitable for use on the rear spring mounting.

[Deleted]

When in position the mounts will be subjected to compression,if the springs are so flattened that the mounts are subjected to shear I doubt any bonding process would be able to withstand the force the springs will exert.

[Deleted]

Dec 27, 2013 19:52:34 GMT @kevbacon said:

When in position the mounts will be subjected to compression,if the springs are so flattened that the mounts are subjected to shear I doubt any bonding process would be able to withstand the force the springs will exert.

In my experience, the bonding process of the rubber to the steel backing is immensely strong. Probably as strong as the original process.It's the rubber which starts to tear under shearing forces.

[Deleted]

Probably so.