Thanks Peter. I now realize why I needed to have a break from the car. At least I know all the processes and what to look out for this time. The PS front door should be more straight forward as it's just a sectioning job.
I managed to get in a couple days work and have virtually finished with the rear PS section of the car. It still requires final finishing with regard to small panel imperfections and final paint, but I can now move on to the front PS door. I still need to make 2 filler pieces that fit between the B post and the 'old' hinged section of the rear doors. I'll use 1/2" plywood for these and they'll be filled/painted and removable with several fixing screws.
Thanks Peter. No I'm not. My wife and her sister are the football fanatics in our family. In Victoria where I live 'Aussie Rules' (AFL) is the passion for most people, although Rugby and Soccer are also strong. My preference is for anything mechanical (you'd never guess would you (rofl)and anything that mixes art & design with that)
This is the sort of thing that intrigues and fascinates me:
Randy Grubb. What an incredibly unhinged perfectionist! Love it. Thanks for the post Vince. That Decoliner looks perfectly designed. Love the flying deck. And so stable. Just look at the way it takes the corner at the end of the vid! Apparently for sale at half a million dollars. So for 5,000 hours work thats 100 dollars an hour!
Yes I should have said World Cup soccer. I think Tim Cahill's world cup goal may enthuse you anyway. Its on Google.
I'm glad you enjoyed it Peter. He certainly creates some amazing vehicles.
Here's the next instalment guys.
Sectioning & Fitting the Front PS door
I managed to put in a sold 6 hours today and things moved along nicely. The donor front door was measured and a 300 mm section was cut off from the 'closing' end. Another 300 mm measurement was then taken from the shutting edge of the B post across the face of the fitted door. This was then marked for a cut line. The section of unwanted door was then cut free using a slitting disc on my angle grinder. A 30 mm strip (joining strip) was cut from one of the waste doors and this was spot welded to the edge. This piece of metal provides for a degree of slight adjustment so that I can get the door gaps correct and also makes it easier to join both panels. I've used this method on 3 doors now.
Here's today's pix.
The first one is of yours truly ready for a bit of cut & shut.
It would be great to say that with a few cut, tweaks and welds the PS front door just fell into place. Well unfortunately that's the world of fantasy and wishful thinking. The base of the internal door frame actually curves slightly inwards (becomes concave) as it moves rear wards. Also, since I've moved the B pillar back about 9" the section where the door closes at the rear also narrows down. Consequently the back portion of the door needs to be narrowed to close correctly. Another consideration is that the internal seal (furflex) that pushes down over a panel joining lip needs to have a certain space allocated to it so that the door shuts against the rubber portion of the seal. So an approximate 3/4" needs to be maintained for this to occur. The photos that I've posted are my modifications to the width of the base of the door frame, so that this distance is maintained.
Another point of contention is the top/rear section of the door frame. This no longer aligns correctly with the body as the body actually tapers ever so slightly to the rear. To correct the fit of the door I've cut a slice into the lower section of the window frame, pulled it back and welded the seam.
Unfortunately there's still more, as I need to adjust the gap between the sill and the base of the door and also slightly reduce the gap (1mm) between the closing edge of the door and the B post...but that's the next task.
G'Day, mate. I'm glad you managed to get all this extra work done in between the showers over the last couple of days - looking good too....! It was great to actually see the car 'in the flesh' a few days ago too, so thanks again for the opportunity. The whole car might be painted by the end of the week at this rate.......!! Keep up the good work!
I once thought I had made an error, but Phil moved my post for me and all was fixed... :-)
Thanks Glenn & Peter. Like all of those tasks that started with..."Oh that'd be an interesting modification!" It's always a lot more effort than you'd like it to be. (10% inspiration and 90% perspiration)
Sometimes things go to plan and sometimes they just go south. I've just spent 3 days chasing a crease and a stretch across a door skin. When I finally thought I had it back in shape the door frame had twisted. This was due to me having not welded some of the inside panels at all points where I had cut them. Eventually, I thought...well that's it, I've had a gutful of this panel and cut out a huge piece of door skin. From this point, I corrected the rear of the door frame and tightened up the closing gap between the door and the outer skin. So far so good. Fortunately, I still had some door sections left and these had some good undamaged door skin pieces. So, with quite a lot of fettling I managed to insert them into the cavity. It took 2 original pieces of door skin and 1 hand formed section.
How did it occur? Well, the door skin is now 9 inches longer and virtually unsupported over the panel length. There is also quite a large compound curve built into the panel...so if there are any loose/stretched areas, the panel will readily 'oil can'. This was where the drama started. I over came it by using joining strips for each new piece of panel skin 'let-in'. This method also tends to strengthen/stiffen the large expanse of panel. When the door is finished the addition of the longer Wolseley 4/44 door spear will also add to it's rigidity.
This update is picture heavy as there won't be another for at least 2 weeks.
I don't have that tool John...but I also wanted to strengthen the panel by providing an extra brace albeit in body steel. I also didn't want to kink or stretch any of the panels given my recent 3 day ordeal. It also makes it easier to MIG the joins. When it's done there's only a thin strip on the back of the panel.
Finishing-off & Fitting the Front PS door (Take 3)
Well I'm finally done with the bulk of the metalwork in fabricating the PS coupe door. The following images contain text to the detail work that took place in the repair and fabrication. The next phase of the work will focus on removing the remaining roof drip rail (overhanging the PS door) and bringing the roof edge down closer to the top of the door frame. Before I move onto modifying the roof edge, I still need to replace a small section of inner roof rail where the B pillar was fitted originally. After this small repair I want to refit the door mechanism and B pillar door latch. This will effectively complete the fabrication process to make the car a 2 door coupe.
Front PS door: Fitting the Door Mechanism & 'Prep' work for paint
This finally ends the saga with the PS door. The car is now a Coupe and the next task will entail finishing off the roof lip and flaring the PS front guard to match the DS. The pictures illustrate the final stages of preparing the door for paint and fitting the locking mechanism. You may note that the latch is now removable and that there is a 10mm hole drilled opposite the securing screw for the door handle.
Roof Gutter removal & trim / Repair to B pillar Roof Cavity / Fill, Sand & Prime
The 2 door conversion to my ZB Magnette has virtually concluded with these final pieces of work. Primarily, the removal of the original roof gutter (lowering the roof edge to almost meet the door frame) and the repairs to the upper inner section of the roof structure where the B pillar was originally located. This still isn't the end of the project though as functional windows needed to be fitted to both 'new' front doors and the smaller openings of the remnant rear doors.
I've spent the last couple of days covered in filler dust from the seemingly endless sanding that is an inevitable stage in the preparation of the panels for paint. I still need to do some repairs to the roof (small indentations from the heat of the fire) and then I'll move onto flaring the PS front mud guard (fender) to match the DS.
I also want to fit the rear windscreen (some time in the next week or so) as the back of the car is finished.
Here are the pix of the current work. (Text as usual on the images)