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Post by Dean Hovland on May 21, 2013 17:39:14 GMT
If it were me Cyf I wouldn't bother with a mechanical pump  Which pump/ pumps do you recommend John ? |
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Post by cyf on May 21, 2013 17:52:37 GMT
Thanks Cyf your a star . How did you work that out ? I read the WSM, I didn't understand everything but there's a cut of the pump which was very helpful |
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Post by johnwp5bcoupe on May 21, 2013 20:12:37 GMT
If it were me Cyf I wouldn't bother with a mechanical pump Which pump/ pumps do you recommend John ? I am happy with the one I have Dean it is the Facet 40105 3-4.5psi  |
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Post by petervdvelde on May 21, 2013 21:25:57 GMT
Norvin,
I now realize that fitting the pump in the engine bay has the advantage that you can still can use the reserve tap from the fuel tank. This is not possible if the pump is fitted near the fuel tank
Peter
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Post by Welsh Warlock on May 21, 2013 21:36:48 GMT
I also have a facet fuel pump fitted to the N/S front wing and having looked at the label it was fitted in 2003!
Can't see the model number but looks identical to the earlier picture.
By mounting in the N/S wing by using some rubber pipes and clips you can leave all of the original pipes in place, block off the original pump and leave it in place as a back up in case the electric pump dies. Mine was like that for several years until I changed the engine for a later block which has no mechanical fuel pump take off.
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Post by Dean Hovland on May 30, 2013 10:45:39 GMT
That went well , picked up the service fuel pump kit from the post office ,, thank mr wadham four days postage to Spain ,, perfect. Ive serviced the pump and fitted it before the sun became to freakin hot.( hows the weather in the UK ?) :-)
The mistakes i made ; Should have disconnected the fuel line from the tank from the get go. The pump didnt need servicing , the two bolts holding it to the engine were loose, the gasket was ripped ,,both fuel lines to the pump were loose , guess this was were the air was getting in. I could have replaced the gasket and tightened everything up. He ho i had fun servicing the pump.
Just a thought i didnt change the valves , i wonder if you could buy the cheaper service kit , not replace the valves and service the more expensive 22mm pump.
Thanks all for help and guidance .
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liamjack1
Rover Rookie
I've had my P5B coupe for some 13 yrs it was a ministry car and belonged to sir Edward CHilton
Posts: 16 
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Post by liamjack1 on Jun 18, 2013 20:23:05 GMT
I fitted a facet pump also but installed a regulator as well. This regulator. Is set at 3 and seems work OK.
Colin
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ANDY CAPP
Rover Rookie
Posts: 52
Location: NEWFOREST
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Post by ANDY CAPP on Mar 12, 2015 16:19:37 GMT
cyf I agree with John fit an electric pump, this is mine that I fitted some time ago. h  Hello, ive followed this thread because i think my old man's car might need a new pump, and electric seem's the easiest way to go. Where did you wire it into,and how did you do it. Thank's. |
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Post by norvin on Mar 12, 2015 17:35:37 GMT
No cutout in pump but it is easy to fit one. Electric pump is the way to go and if fitted in engine bay you can still use the reserve.
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Post by Steve P5b on Mar 12, 2015 19:16:22 GMT
Hello, ive followed this thread because i think my old man's car might need a new pump, and electric seem's the easiest way to go. Where did you wire it into,and how did you do it. Thank's. That's mounted on the N/S front inner wing just behind the rad? What happens in the event of a shunt? Does the pump have some kind of inertia cut off switch or do you have to fit a cut off as an additional item? Most older cars with a high pressure electric fuel pump would of had the ignition feed to the coil and the feed to the fuel pump wired via an inertia switch. Fit one to your car. No excuses or concessions. In an accident these switches kill any sparks and all the fuel supply in one hit - don't assume that because your car is in an accident the engine always stops, so wiring through the oil pressure switch won't help at all I have seen cars on their side after an accidents with the engine still running, the accident could have ruptured a fuel line and fuel would have been gushing out and these pumps deliver a lot of fuel... I would NEVER-EVER run a car on an electric fuel pump without an inertia switch, Probably and hopefully you have not seen a car burst into flames, it is horrific. Worse when people are trapped in the car. Fit a switch, they cost little. www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-WQT100030Hope this helps |
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Post by richardlamsdale on Mar 13, 2015 8:57:44 GMT
When I bought my car last year it had a Facet electric fuel pump fitted. After a few weeks I realised there was no inertia switch (there was actually a toggle switch mounted on the dashboard to switch it off, which I guess was either a basic ant-theft measure or a wildly optimistic safety 'feature'), so I bought an inertia switch and fitted it in the supply line, mounting it on the engine firewall, and removed the toggle switch.
I'm interested to read here that an inertia switch should also be in-line with the ignition feed. That makes a lot of sense. Is it best practice to usea single inertia switch feeding both pump and ignition, or two separate switches? I assume one switch can feed both?
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Post by Steve P5b on Mar 13, 2015 10:54:34 GMT
When I bought my car last year it had a Facet electric fuel pump fitted. After a few weeks I realised there was no inertia switch (there was actually a toggle switch mounted on the dashboard to switch it off, which I guess was either a basic ant-theft measure or a wildly optimistic safety 'feature'), so I bought an inertia switch and fitted it in the supply line, mounting it on the engine firewall, and removed the toggle switch. I'm interested to read here that an inertia switch should also be in-line with the ignition feed. That makes a lot of sense. Is it best practice to usea single inertia switch feeding both pump and ignition, or two separate switches? I assume one switch can feed both? That sounds like a very sensible temporary repair so far Richard , however to achieve further piece of mind when driving your rover after fitting an electric pump I would suggest this method. I'm sure the inertia switch would be capable of supplying sufficient current for both ignition and fuel pump without being overloaded but as we are using retro fitted devices that differ in design it is difficult to be sure , so to remove the load from this device is best. Use two standard single throw automotive relays rated at 20 Amp that can be retro fitted and come supplied with mounting tags.   Mount the inertia switch securely to something like the bulkhead. Wire the inertia switch from an ignition fused supply 5 Amp. The inertia switch output supplies two control relays (one for ignition supply and another for fuel pump) to terminal 85, Fuse both these supplies separately at 3 Amp. Ground relay terminals 86. Next take an individual fused 10Amp permanent supply ( maybe from the starter battery terminal)to terminal 30 and from terminal 87 to the fuel pump. For the ignition I would disconnect the 12volt supply at the ballast resistor ( if fitted) and insulate, then connect from the relay to this terminal. If no ballast resistor is fitted then do this at the ignition coil , if you have an electronic system retro fitted then use this as the supply to it. All this may seem a lot of work, but better to edge on the side of safety than not. My car came with an electric pump which I changed back to the mechanical type and has been ok for years, it now is leaking engine oil probably due to recent fuel additives destroying the diaphragm, so I may be "going electric" soon also. Hope this helps. Steve |
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Post by richardlamsdale on Mar 14, 2015 0:01:21 GMT
Thanks Steve, seems like a good way to do it though I'd think one relay might be sufficient for both pump and ignition. I'm going to fit relays for the headlamps soonish, so will add this to my to do list. Thanks.
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Post by Steve P5b on Mar 14, 2015 8:23:42 GMT
For sure one relay is sufficient, if later you desire engine management then supplies are ready.
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Post by norvin on Mar 14, 2015 14:38:11 GMT
Not sure if fitting the inertia valve to the bulkhead would be the best place.
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Post by Steve P5b on Mar 14, 2015 17:35:18 GMT
Not sure if fitting the inertia valve to the bulkhead would be the best place. What is an inertia valve? |
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Post by Phil Nottingham on Mar 14, 2015 21:12:33 GMT
A valve which cuts off the fuel when a severe (or not so) jolt occurs eg a shunt RTA. Fuel injected cars with high pressure electric pumps have had them for years. Before that oil pressure devices were used which depended on the engine stalling
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Post by Steve P5b on Mar 14, 2015 21:25:14 GMT
A valve which cuts off the fuel when a severe (or not so) jolt occurs eg a shunt RTA. Fuel injected cars with high pressure electric pumps have had them for years. Before that oil pressure devices were used which depended on the engine stalling I've never heard of an inertia valve in fuel injection systems. Always interested in learning something not known to me Phil, show me your examples please. |
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Post by Phil Nottingham on Mar 14, 2015 22:25:41 GMT
No examples - no need any more as live dangerously but in a moment of madness when I BOUGHT  a then new modern car in 1990 our super comfortable but entirely unreliable Rover 820SE auto had one under the glove box in the passenger front foot-well. Could be manually reset - present day cars no doubt require a new switch and/or dealer referral (as car will not start!) |
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Post by eightofthem (Andy) on Mar 14, 2015 23:11:38 GMT
My former boss had a 3 series BMW, and on one trip out he ran over a kerb stone that was in the middle of the road, the car stopped dead.
BMW assist told him over the phone that the inertia switch had probably tripped ( which was located in the centre console ) which it had done, but the kerb had also damaged the sump pan, bellhouse and flywheel, along with other components underneath, it cost a lot to put right, and as far as I know he still has that Beemer, that was in 1996.
They do work.
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Post by barryr on Mar 14, 2015 23:37:10 GMT
2 stories from me on that. A friend with an eighties BMW 3.0 csl did the same thing and tore the sump nut out his sump like a zip fastener!
Also in the 90's, a manager at work reversed her Sierra into a post and punched a hole in the rear quarter. She was not a car person and as a young keen guy I offered to weld up the hole, fill and spray it with aerosols for free. Up to her if she wanted to get it done pro as I am an IT guy not a body guy by trade.
I did a pretty good job on the bodywork but even having disconnected battery and alternator before welding the car wouldn't start after. Eventually I traced the problem to the inertia switch which was reset with a button in the front footwell as I recall!
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Post by Steve P5b on Mar 15, 2015 5:47:10 GMT
No examples - no need any more as live dangerously but in a moment of madness when I BOUGHT a then new modern car in 1990 our super comfortable but entirely unreliable Rover 820SE auto had one under the glove box in the passenger front foot-well. Could be manually reset - present day cars no doubt require a new switch and/or dealer referral (as car will not start!)  Rover 820 inertia switch available from Rimmer Bro's Worth fitting Phil , just in case! www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-GRID004955 |
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Post by norvin on Mar 15, 2015 7:54:02 GMT
As you say Steve could be worth fitting. I have been thinking about fitting one on my car but on carburettor cars the engine will run on until they are empty so as you say an ignition cut off as well.
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Post by johnwp5bcoupe on Mar 15, 2015 10:50:02 GMT
I am reading this post with interest! so are all the guys who run P5's with twin SU AUA182 pumps and have done for decades going to fit impact cut off switches? also will any other car owners using SU pumps? and there are loads of those, the SU's will deliver as much and more than the Farcet! "Just a thought"
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Post by Phil Nottingham on Mar 15, 2015 11:56:32 GMT
I agree - loads of cars were fitted with electric pumps up to the mid 1970's incl Mini's - the high output and more importantly very high pressure of the tank pumps fitted to injection cars are a different matter. I remember replacing the filter on the said 820SE and it did not come with the alloy sealing washers. I used the old ones and they would not seal and a fine mist of fuel sprayed all over the engine when started up
I am not bothering fitting switches to our P2, P4, Mini and 3 Litre or the P5B. The P2 and P5B are the only ones that had standard mechanical pumps
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a then new modern car in 1990 our super comfortable but entirely unreliable Rover 820SE auto had one under the glove box in the passenger front foot-well. Could be manually reset - present day cars no doubt require a new switch and/or dealer referral (as car will not start!)
