Wooden Door Caps

[bunty]

Hi All,
Any tips on how to remove the wooden door caps on a P5 mark 3 1966. If I am reading the manual correctly, I can tap them off using a block of hardwood and a hammer .... this sounds too easy, and I wonder if there is something else that needs to be done.
I am going to get the caps re-done .... again any suggestions .... I have details of Chapman & Cliff, but are there others?
All help appreciated
Thanks

[Steve P5b]

You probably could get them off with a hammer and block of wood, but it might be easier if you remove the door cards and use a screwdriver to remove the six tiny self tappers first
There was a polisher that had a display of polished dashboards from various cars at Beaulieu this year, he does a lovely job £400 + for a p5, ouch.

[bunty]

Thanks for the info .... I probably would have ended up splitting the wood ..... so very appreciative of your comments. Next question though .... any tips on removing the door card .... again it looks straight forward .... but any bodywork job is never strightforward or easy.

[Pete Collins]

Jul 6, 2013 17:25:04 GMT bunty said:

Thanks for the info .... I probably would have ended up splitting the wood ..... so very appreciative of your comments. Next question though .... any tips on removing the door card .... again it looks straight forward .... but any bodywork job is never strightforward or easy.

I think you need a workshop manual. Reprinted Rover manuals available from the club.


I am slow, probably due to the operation I had and the antibiotics I am on.

You said you read the manual and if you are correct you get the wooden door caps off by putting a piece of wood against it and hit it with a hammer and then "any tips on removing the door cards" in your next post.

I think Bunty you are a wind up merchant who knows exactly how to do it.
Or you are reading the Hillman Minx manual.

[bunty]

I must say that in my postings to this and other forums I have always found the replies very helpfull, and well intentioned. Well P5Pete, I do own an original Workshop Manual, and if you care to turn to Section U, page 13, you will see the instructions of how to remove a door panel waist rail moulding. I replied to Mahatmacoat, out of courtesy and because I was grateful of his input, at the same time asking for any "tips" to remove the door card. In my, albeit, limited experience of life, instructions can always be complemented by first hand experience from someone who has already done it. Yes, I can read a manual, even if some times it is sadly lacking, whereas obviously you are capable of disseminating written information and transposing it into perfection personified. I strongly suggest a change of tablets and, hopefully, attitude. The reply was far from what I would expect from a "regional rep".

[David]

Assuming the P5B saloon has the same fixings, the padded panel can be removed by using a flat headed screwdriver or similar, levering off the complete item. Once removed you should see a fixing plate with 5(/) screws. Remove these and the complete wood frame should be loose. To remove it from the door frame first open the door, then using a blunt instrument (hammer and block of wood, gently tap the base of the fixing plate UPWARDS and the complete wood frame should simply pop off as one. Don't try and hit the top wood frame (the bit that goes around the top of the door) as this can split the joints.

HTH

[norvin]

The thing about a workshop manual is that it is what it is, for garages so a lot of detail is left out, so yes it's nice to get tips from owners who have done these jobs. 

[Pete Collins]

Jul 8, 2013 17:17:38 GMT bunty said:

I must say that in my postings to this and other forums I have always found the replies very helpfull, and well intentioned. Well P5Pete, I do own an original Workshop Manual, and if you care to turn to Section U, page 13, you will see the instructions of how to remove a door panel waist rail moulding. I replied to Mahatmacoat, out of courtesy and because I was grateful of his input, at the same time asking for any "tips" to remove the door card. In my, albeit, limited experience of life, instructions can always be complemented by first hand experience from someone who has already done it. Yes, I can read a manual, even if some times it is sadly lacking, whereas obviously you are capable of disseminating written information and transposing it into perfection personified. I strongly suggest a change of tablets and, hopefully, attitude. The reply was far from what I would expect from a "regional rep".

Hi Bunty

I see your mistake that page refers to the "Door panel waist rail moulding" that is on the outside of the door, the wood as you know is on the inside. It shows you a drawing on the page you mention. Have another look. Tablets 20 a day thanks;-)

Cheers, Pete

[markymark]

With regard to getting the wood refurbished, I came across these guys at the Bromley Pageant. They said they could do a P5 but wouldn't commit to a price without some pictures of the parts:-
www.classical-dash.co.uk/

Anyone used them before?
My doors are good but the dash corner pieces and glovebox lid need doing.

Cheers,
Mark

[allanthomas1]

I know I might get some criticism here from the purist, when I refurbished the wood on my 3 litre I used Ronseal then applied lacquer rubbing down between coats, it looked great, used the same method on my 3.5 15 years ago still as good as the day it was done.

Please go easy on me guy's !

[johnwp5bcoupe]

Jul 8, 2013 23:34:06 GMT allanthomas1 said:

I know I might get some criticism here from the purist, when I refurbished the wood on my 3 litre I used Ronseal then applied lacquer rubbing down between coats, it looked great, used the same method on my 3.5 15 years ago still as good as the day it was done.

Please go easy on me guy's !

No Purism when it comes to this job Alan as good a method as any unless you can reproduce the original Wardrobe finish

[David]

For a deeper shine I used use Yacht varnish. Apply lightly, rub down between each coat until you build up enough thickness, finishing with one smooth coat.

[norvin]

I know that I have posted this some time ago but thought it would be worth posting again, yes it is for a P4 but it would be the same for a P5, it does show the high quality of work from Rover.

[bunty]

Thanks to you all for the advice .... it is very appreciated ...... now to get the job done ..... I might try the DIY approach to the woodwork before resorting to the coach builders and finishers.
Thanks again

[Steve P5b]

Jul 9, 2013 11:56:01 GMT bunty said:

Thanks to you all for the advice .... it is very appreciated ...... now to get the job done ..... I might try the DIY approach to the woodwork before resorting to the coach builders and finishers.
Thanks again

Here you are bunty, use this companies "plastic coating" you can apply it with a brush, but it sets rock hard within two hours as its a two part epoxy and can be rubbed down and polished just like your car paint and looks shiny like glass, UV protection and it wont fade or crack. If you don't fancy that you can use their "button polish " for that old wardrobe look, they also sell varnish.
As you can see they have been around since 1924
www.rustins.co.uk/

[markymark]

For me the important point is you need a different approach depending on the part. The door caps are mainly solid wood with the ends at the front veneered. The dash is veneered. For solid stuff use a varnish etc, but for veneer that's chipped (like mine) you need to replace it. That's a bit more tricky hence the reference to the company I came across at the pageant.
Any inputs into how to fix veneered trim would be appreciated.
Cheers,
Mark

[bigandy]

ok into the breach ! anyone manufacture new door cappings for 3.5 litre coupes ?
big andy

[Deleted]

Oct 13, 2013 15:51:06 GMT bigandy said:

ok into the breach ! anyone manufacture new door cappings for 3.5 litre coupes ?
big andy

They do turn up as NOS on Ebay from time to time. There was one a few weeks ago and not big money.

Most people restore their own but matching up with existing wood is the issue and would be with a NOS.

What's the problem with yours?

[frans1950]

I have the wooden doortrims from a P5B Saloon for sale! They need restoration: grinding and paint. Price: around 50,00 euro. They are to see on www.marktplaats.nl

[bigandy]

Hi nsf is cracked and the front is completely broken off
Big Andy