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Post by rover1066 on Apr 11, 2006 16:01:30 GMT
Yes its true, any worries of overheating are just not there on my P5B!
One day it was fine, temp guauge reading N, plenty of heat etc. Next time I used it, almost no heat, and temp guauge remaining on C, occasionally just creeping off the bottom!
A couple of questions: I recently flushed and refilled the cooling system; is it possible I've got an airlock which has taken time to work its way around?
Should I be able to hear the 'stat clicking when squeezing the top hose, only I can'y hear anything?
I want to try to sort over Easter, so any thoughts appreciated.
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Post by Phil Nottingham on Apr 11, 2006 18:30:08 GMT
The stat will definitely not click.
It may be airlocked - follow procedure in maintenance manual
The sender and/or gauge may be faulty or the stat has become blocked open with cooling system debris
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Post by rover1066 on Apr 11, 2006 19:06:08 GMT
Thanks Phil, I've got a new stat & sender which I'll fit.
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Post by Deleted on Apr 12, 2006 7:38:16 GMT
When changing my coolant (P5B) I fill to the top of the radiator and run the engine, open front and rear heater taps etc and top up the coolant to the base of the filler neck on the radiator. Where the radiator overflow used to drain on to the floor I have fitted an expansion tank so mow the excess coolant is collected and when cooling down, the system draws the water back into the radiator. Why Rover didn't fit an expansion tank I don't know. No more antifreeze stains in the engine bay or on the floor anymore!  Cheers |
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Post by rover1066 on Apr 12, 2006 12:40:45 GMT
Thanks for your comments Freddy, problem I have is that the heater taps are seized solid in the Open position, so I can't follow the procedure as per the maintenance manual.
Presumably you just undo the bottom hose?
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Post by dorsetflyer on Apr 12, 2006 14:39:14 GMT
As far as I'm aware it's no use loosening the bottom hose. If you are looking for an air-lock its the return hose from the heater that needs to be undone. I presume you have your heater control lever in the hot position.
Another way of getting the air out is to run the engine up to temp, and then keep squeezing the top hose. As any air comes out so the level will reduce and it then needs to be topped up again.
At this time of the year my temp gauge doesn't get up to the green band, this is because of the low outside temperatures we have been having lately. This will rectify itself once the warmer weather gets set in.
That's a good idea Adrian about putting a bottle in under the overflow hose , at least you don't have to top up so often.
I'm suprised Rover didn't use this idea, as for a long period they were under BL control and most of their cars of that era had expansion bottles fitted.
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Post by rover1066 on Apr 12, 2006 15:30:31 GMT
It all went 'pear-shaped' almost from one day to the next. I had drained the system to fit new heater hoses, then re-filled the system. All was apparently fine. Following day, the temp gauge almost didn't move at all off cold, though after a run it had crept up a mm or so! A few days later, still with temp gauge on cold, the heater ceased to blow warm, let alone hot!
In any event I want to drain the system again to renew the antifreeze, but the control knob for the rear heater, which I think should move up & down is stuck in the 'up' position, which I assume is 'open'. I'd prefer not to tamper with this if poss! The manual says you should move this as part of the procedure to purge air from the system. Is there a way around this?
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Post by Phil Nottingham on Apr 12, 2006 16:09:55 GMT
Turning the knob clockwise after a good soaking with Plus Gas (not WD 40 will usually move it. Up is ON. The valve only operates on one pipe.
If your heater hoses are good they should be flexible enough to squash carefully with a G clamp. Alternatively undo the flow one under neath the seat to let water run out.
It does sound like an airlock but they are not really prone to getting them
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Post by rover1066 on Apr 12, 2006 16:49:18 GMT
Phil, I know this has been covered before, but to reassure myself, how do I check the gauge is ok?
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Post by Phil Nottingham on Apr 12, 2006 18:13:36 GMT
Only by substitution with a known good one - its usually the sender and these can fail suddenly but are cheap and easy to change.
If the heaters are not working its likely to be an airlock or the stat
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Post by dorsetflyer on Apr 12, 2006 18:45:06 GMT
If the water in radiator is hot but the heater only blows cold air then it is definitely an air lock.
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Post by Deleted on Apr 13, 2006 9:26:57 GMT
I run my car without the engine driven fan and on Friday last (7th April nice warm day) the needle on the temp. gauge settled about 1/3 of the way across. It rose slightly when in traffic but fell back down again when on the move. At no point did the electric fan cut in. I have never found any problems with air locks after draining and refilling the coolant, but I reckon that undoing a heater hose in the engine bay would release any trapped air as it is about the highest point of the system. Good luck with finding your cure !  Cheers Adrian |
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Post by rover1066 on Apr 13, 2006 15:48:50 GMT
Thanks Adrian, I let you all know how it goes over the weekend! Mike
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Post by rover1066 on Apr 14, 2006 16:06:53 GMT
Promised an update to all you kind folk! Drained the system down, fitted new temp. transmitter, refilled, made sure no airlocks...and I now have heat. The temp gauge only just nudges the green but all seems ok...UNTIL...when leaving the car in the garage I noticed some drips of green coolant from under the rear o/s, yes the small curved hose to the rear heater is leaking. Does this mean draining it again? Phil suggested Plus Gas to free the stuck rear heater tap but it still won't budge!
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Post by Phil Nottingham on Apr 14, 2006 17:54:27 GMT
Glad you have almost sorted it!
If you want the heater valve work you have to find a good secondhand one - try David Green. To prevent it seizing lubricate and move up and down regularly. Soaking the old one in diesel for a couple of weeks may free it use a small piece of pipe to bridge the gap.
Draining should not be required for this and also the back heater hose if you are quick and keep the rad cap on.
Do not take the risk with dodgy hoses the system runs at high pressure they can burst almost anywhere.
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Post by Phil Nottingham on Apr 20, 2006 21:42:17 GMT
There is a heater valve on Ebay - Item number: 4632777306
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Post by lagain on Apr 22, 2006 21:25:41 GMT
I fitted an expansion bottle to my car many years ago and have not suffered from air locks since. The pressure cap is on the bottle and a blanking cap on the radiator.
When I change the antifreeze I remove the bottle from its usual position at the near side of the radiator and hang it from the bonnet catch, above the level of the heater, as this is where the problem is, the heater matrix is above the top of the radiator and it is very difficult to purge the air from it. I then fill the radiator fit the blanking cap and top up through the bottle. Run the engine without the pressure cap until the water level stabalises and then leave to cool. No more problems !
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