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Post by djm16 on Apr 16, 2014 13:58:51 GMT
Sitting here at my computer, a few steps from the loo, waiting for the bowel prep for a colonoscopy to finish its dirty work, I thought I would get on with posting some pictures of the work I have done on the brakes of her, HER car. This is where we started from:  The calipers first. The boots were dry and cracked and the pistons corroded.     Some of the pistons were quite hard to remove!  The first step was to clean this:  To look more like this:  It looks as though shot blasting has revealed a trace of zinc plating? Although I have the equipment to zinc plate, this seemed like too much trouble so I powder coated it instead.  The next step was to get the piston seal inserted (easy) and then the piston boot (not so easy). I would say that getting the boot on without splitting the caliper has to be close to impossible. The boot goes on OK, but getting the brass locking ring down the inside is a devil of a job. As fast as you push down one edge, it pops out again somewhere else. I eventually got the hang of it by holding down the bit closest to me with a screwdriver held between my teeth and working my way around with two more screwdrivers. You can see the brass ring below, not yet in place. I understand these are unobtainable. At a pinch you could probably make a new one from bent piano wire. Fortunately mine cleaned up OK (in the blasting cabinet).  I bought a set of new SS pistons online. Two were fine, and two more had an inadequate slot for the pistons boot, and trying to get a new boot attached resulted in me tearing one. Fortunately, being absent minded, I had ordered two sets by mistake. Here you see one good and one not so good SS piston.  The boot when new easily expands over the piston, allowing you to slide the piston into place. Much easier than trying to put the boot on with the piston already inserted.  Lastly the whole caliper assembled and in place on the newly refurbished front suspension.  |
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Post by Welsh Warlock on Apr 16, 2014 14:41:56 GMT
Nice thread but a little TMI at the start I think.  |
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Post by Phil Nottingham on Apr 16, 2014 17:54:34 GMT
Exceelent pics but do I detect a rust spot on the edge of the new disk?  |
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Post by cyf on Apr 17, 2014 6:59:56 GMT
Brilliant, as I'm in the front brakes too, but choosed the easiest (laziest?) way of buying recon calipers.
Do you powder-coat your parts yourself?
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Post by djm16 on Apr 17, 2014 15:01:02 GMT
do I detect a spot of wind up?  Yes I am doing the powder coating myself. Most of this can be done without an oven just with careful use of a blowtorch. It actually took three goes to get the first one right. I did not like the shiny silver coat I tried first, too bling. Then I got my coat of hammer finish too thick, so stripped that back too. Finally a medium coat of powder finish worked for me. |
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Post by cyf on Apr 17, 2014 15:36:56 GMT
What do you use to do the powder coating? I saw devices on the net and wonder if it's good
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Post by johnwp5bcoupe on Apr 17, 2014 16:24:01 GMT
What do you use to do the powder coating? I saw devices on the net and wonder if it's good You can buy Caliper Paint in many colours it lasts for years if applied correctly. |
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Post by cyf on Apr 17, 2014 16:31:33 GMT
Yes John, but for other parts I like the result of powder coating and would like to know if I can do it at home.
We're out of thread, I may be open a thread on powder coating
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Post by djm16 on Apr 18, 2014 4:35:36 GMT
Caliper paint v. powder coating. Caliper paint is cheap and convenient in an aerosol can. However for significant quantities of work the cost starts to add up. The paint has a tendency to run. It needs multiple coats to get a good finish, several hours of drying time followed by 30 mins baking at the right temperature. It is a relatively durable although quite brittle finish. Caliper paint will lift eventually with brake fluid and can be stripped with Nitromors. Powder coating is dirt cheap once you have the equipment. It is very hard to get it to run. Judging coating thickness is not easy. Getting paint into nooks and crannies is hard. However, once the powder is on, you just have to heat it to 180 degrees and you are done. Much faster than aerosol painting. The finish is highly abrasion resistant, even the standard polyester resins, epoxy is the toughest but fades with UV. Powder coats do not lift with brake fluid or Nitromors. My machine is: Spectracoat ES-01 www.powderbuythepound.com/PSS-SPECTRACOAT-ES01-H-POWDER-COATING-SYSTEM/ |
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Post by johnwp5bcoupe on Apr 18, 2014 6:13:10 GMT
Powder Coat looks great if you use it where it wont get damaged, my experience of it is if chipped or cracked water gets under it you cant see this due to the plastic type layer,I failed a few times at scrutineering due to this! if you have a chip you cant touch it up with a brush  it isn't bomb proof! you "can" remove it with Nitromors I had to last year, ( the bead blasting guys hate it ) it will discolour if associated with any oil product after time,if coated with Acrylic Lacquer it is more resilient to chemicals. I am not singing the praises of Caliper Paint all of the above are relevant but done correctly and your brakes don't leak fluid? which the shouldn't  it will last for years and you can touch it up! also no extra outlay just patients waiting for the paint to dry  Never used an aerosol just brush. When I say Nitromors I mean the clear stuff that is only available if you are in the trade! we now have the green coloured cr*p on the DIY shelf which is "not suitable for automotive use" written in very small print on the container, another directive from the wonderful EU  |
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Deleted
Deleted Member
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Post by Deleted on Apr 18, 2014 8:43:30 GMT
Powder Coat looks great if you use it where it wont get damaged, my experience of it is if chipped or cracked water gets under it you cant see this due to the plastic type layer,I failed a few times at scrutineering due to this! if you have a chip you cant touch it up with a brush it isn't bomb proof! you "can" remove it with Nitromors I had to last year, ( the bead blasting guys hate it ) it will discolour if associated with any oil product after time,if coated with Acrylic Lacquer it is more resilient to chemicals. I am not singing the praises of Caliper Paint all of the above are relevant but done correctly and your brakes don't leak fluid? which the shouldn't it will last for years and you can touch it up! also no extra outlay just patients waiting for the paint to dry When I say Nitromors I mean the clear stuff that is only available if you are in the trade! we now have the green coloured cr*p on the DIY shelf which is "not suitable for automotive use" written in very small print on the container, another directive from the wonderful EU I just hand painted mine in high temperature black gloss 8 years ago when I did the rebuild! On the rare occasions I look at them, they still look presentable. Also worth remembering that you can't really see them with Rostyles anyway unlike modern wheels where the caliper is on display and is regarded as more of a "feature". |
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Post by David on Apr 18, 2014 10:44:10 GMT
At the risk of being lynched, I painted the calipers using Humbrol Battleship Grey. Yes, the small paint pots you get for Airfix models. That was over five years ago and it is still looking presentable. The car is my everyday transport and lives outdoors, so is subject to all road conditions. Secret is, as previously mentioned, prep is everything. Apologies for grubby pic!  |
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Post by petervdvelde on Apr 18, 2014 11:02:06 GMT
I also like powder coating a lot. The calipers on my MGB are also powder coated and they last already 10 years and still look like new but the car is not living outside. I prefer powder coating because all corners are reached and the layer has an even thickness. It also is much cheaper than getting things painted. The company who does this for me always puts a layer of primer underneath because powder coating seems to have an open structure. For extreme application he advises to gat it zinc coated prior to the powder coating and apply a second layer of powder coating. The company owner told me that powder coating is less durable these days due to environmental issue's. A disadvantage is that you have to protect area where no powder coating should come carefully because it cannot be removed as easy as paint.
I also have the professional paint stripper that removes powder coating. You should not get this on your skin as it gives a burn wound instantly.
Peter
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Post by David on Apr 25, 2014 8:43:46 GMT
Just an update on my previous post. Out of curiousity I checked back how long ago I had painted the calipers on my everyday car. 2006.  Here is a cleaner photo.  |
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Post by barryr on Apr 25, 2014 19:22:28 GMT
It's a Saab, and they last forever too!
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alan
Rover Newbie
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Post by alan on Jun 13, 2014 16:27:11 GMT
Hi Guys, Anyone any idea if l/h caliper will fit r/h side, car going for mot tomorrow and just found r/h caliper is needing repaired, have a l/h one spare, car is 70mls away so cant go out and check.
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Post by johnwp5bcoupe on Jun 13, 2014 16:36:18 GMT
Hi Guys, Anyone any idea if l/h caliper will fit r/h side, car going for mot tomorrow and just found r/h caliper is needing repaired, have a l/h one spare, car is 70mls away so cant go out and check. They are handed |
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Post by ynysmardy on Nov 23, 2017 10:37:12 GMT
I think they will fit but your brake hose will have to be made longer..
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it isn't bomb proof! you "can" remove it with Nitromors I had to last year, ( the bead blasting guys hate it ) it will discolour if associated with any oil product after time,if coated with Acrylic Lacquer it is more resilient to chemicals.
it will last for years and you can touch it up! also no extra outlay just patients waiting for the paint to dry 
Never used an aerosol just brush.
