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Post by petervdvelde on May 2, 2014 15:19:46 GMT
Last Tuesday i was at the Barons Spring Classic Car auction and bidded on a Rover P5B Coupe and won. I had searched for another Rover P5B Coupe in Holland for about 2 years, but wasn't able to find a decent one at a good price. The intention is to fit LPG and use it as a daily driver. The bodywork of the Coupe has been done 3 years ago. It has had a full respray and looks very nice. Also all the chrome work has been done and is immaculate. Also all stainless trim has been polished and looks very nice. The interior is original. No seams have split but it needs a clean. The car definitely needs new carpets. It also has a full sunroof and a full stainless exhaust. At the auction's viewing, the Barons staff couldn't get it running but after looking threw the oil filler cap in the rocker cover, a nice clean engine was found and the fact that the previous owner had driven the car to the auction, gave me enough confidence on that side. Here some pictures of the car On the auction there was also a P5B Saloon which was used by Callahan and was first registered in 1977. The paint of this car was poor I hired a car transporter and collected the car yesterday. Beneath a picture of the car transporter with the Coupe on it waiting for the train threw the tunnel from Dover to Calais. I was early there and had lots of time to inspect the Rover. There are a few things which need attention, like some of the wiring. I have the intention to remove the AED. Today i fitted another battery and the car started immediately with healthy oil pressure and ran fine. I made a small illegal trips around my house to find that every thing works well except for the brakes. The pedal sank a few times too deep. As i want to use it as a daily driver, i will overhaul the brakes as a precaution. Looking at old MOT papers the car only did approx 3500 miles in the last 10 years. I may convert the car later to LHD as i have all the parts needed for this conversion. I am very happy with this car and it was a pleasure to drive a Rover P5 again as it was too long ago. Peter
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Post by guidedog on May 2, 2014 15:32:10 GMT
Congratulations Peter, looks like a really nice car. Enjoy.
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Post by Welsh Warlock on May 2, 2014 15:48:25 GMT
Welcome back to the (not so) dark side.
That saloon is obviously one of the held back for government use versions as it an R reg.
Don't supose you know how much that went for do you?
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Post by Welsh Warlock on May 2, 2014 15:50:36 GMT
ETA: - Found it- £4600 + Premium
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Post by guidedog on May 2, 2014 15:54:18 GMT
ETA: - Found it- £4600 + Premium Look again .Wrong one you found the saloon.
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Post by Welsh Warlock on May 2, 2014 15:57:22 GMT
Read my post above - That's what I was looking for. It wuld be impolite to post up the Coupe figure, wouldn't it
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Post by petervdvelde on May 2, 2014 15:57:40 GMT
Thanks Guidedog, i will surely enjoy it!
Eastmidsrep: the paint on the Saloon was very poor end all over the car there were bubbles underneath the paint. In advance, i didn't expect it to fetch that much money.
Peter
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Post by Phil Nottingham on May 2, 2014 17:39:14 GMT
Perhaps I had better start restoring our saloon as it looks to be better than whats on offer before I start
The Coupe looks good though
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Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
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Post by Deleted on May 2, 2014 17:59:17 GMT
Thanks Guidedog, i will surely enjoy it! Eastmidsrep: the paint on the Saloon was very poor end all over the car there were bubbles underneath the paint. In advance, i didn't expect it to fetch that much money. Peter Peter, what's happened to the area to the right of the drivers footwell? Has water ingress rotted the backing? Looks a real mess.
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Post by petervdvelde on May 2, 2014 18:16:49 GMT
Resurgam,
I don't know what happened there. The trim panel has been removed brutal and is damaged. It could have something to do with the wiring of the interior lights. None of the 4 lights work. The wiring of the front lights also show some bodge repairs and needs some sorting. That is no problem as i need to replace the"UK sealed beams by "main land lamps.
Peter
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Post by Welsh Warlock on May 2, 2014 19:46:43 GMT
Thanks Guidedog, i will surely enjoy it! Eastmidsrep: the paint on the Saloon was very poor end all over the car there were bubbles underneath the paint. In advance, i didn't expect it to fetch that much money. Peter Peter, what's happened to the area to the right of the drivers footwell? Has water ingress rotted the backing? Looks a real mess. Might look bad but easily remedied
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Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
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Post by Deleted on May 3, 2014 9:39:34 GMT
Peter,
Congrats on KYL40K acquisition. Looks good from the photos. Enjoy RHD but it's not a problem.
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Post by petervdvelde on May 4, 2014 22:40:13 GMT
Thanks Peter, i will enjoy first and later convert it to LHD.
I found out that the switch for the under bonnet light was fitted too far forward which caused that the lights would not be switched off when the bonnet is closed. This must have drained the battery and someone may have searched for the cause.
Today i replaced the mile by a KM speedometer but it wasn't working and after checking it was not the cable. So after removing the the console and transmission cover i found out that the small transfer box for the cable was not oke. I replaced it and the speedo is oke now but have to refit the center console and refit the dashboard.
Peter.
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Post by petervdvelde on May 14, 2014 17:40:18 GMT
did some work on the car. First removed the calipers. It showed that the bleeding screws have been renewed not so long ago and the dust seals are oke. The brake pads were not that good. These looked like Cyf's pads The piston don't look to bad. Some corrosion marks and pitting are visible. I will replace these by new stainless pistons. The inside of the calipers looked good. After removing the rear drums i was pleasantly surprised. Not so long ago new shoes and new brake cylinders were fitted. As i convert the brake system to silicon brake fluid, i will replace the seals of these cylinders too. I removed the master and slave brake cylinders and found approx 0,5 liter brake fluid in the brake booster. Dismantling the slave brake cylinder didn't really show what caused the leakage to the brake booster as all parts looked rather good. Inside the slave cylinder some pitting is visible which may have caused the brake fluid leakage to the booster. I assume the slave cylinder was overhauled not so long ago and the pitting issue was not seen or solved. Also checked the alternator. Inside it looked like new. As a precaution i replaced the open front bearing by a closed bearing (2RS). Also checked the air filter. It looks like a squirrel has lived in the air filter housing because i found some opened hazelnut shells in the air filter housing and the squirrel also had eaten a piece of the air filter. As i want to get the calipers powder coated, i removed some more brackets and the headlamp bowls as i need to replace the lights by "continental" lights (no sealed beams) and the front brake back plate to avoid eastmidsrep gets upset Also cleaned and wire brushed bolts, brackets, rings ect for a new zinc coating Now have to order some new parts. Peter
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Post by petervdvelde on May 19, 2014 21:11:36 GMT
As i need to wait for the powder- and zinccoater and the parts to arrive, it was a good moment to add some "bling- bling" to the underbonnet area. With paint stripper, i removed the paint from the valve covers Then with sand paper sanded the outside and polished the covers The LH one was just polished, the RH one was sanded. Also cleaned the carburators and polished the dashpots. I also found out that the headlamp units are identical to those from a Landrover Defender. JRW doesn't sell LH sets so i was forced to buy these here in Holland which would cost me Euro 116,-. With Paddock Landrover parts these cost GBP 32,-. Landrover parts are really very cheap. Peter Thats it for now
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Post by petervdvelde on May 25, 2014 20:33:24 GMT
The ordered parts are slowly arriving. Received SS pistons and seals for the front calipers and a new brake booster, SS hose clamps for all the underbonnet hoses but am still waiting on the powder coated parts and zinc coated parts to arrive. I had a spare , already zinc coated brake fluid reservoir but no cap as these items are very flimsy and all i had were not usable any more. With the spare parts i got with the other P5 there was a much more solid cap. The thread was identical, the height was a little less and there was no hole in it for the level switch. After i dismantled the level switch components from the old flimsy cap, i made a large hole in the other cap. I painted the reservoir and cap with a spray can. As i will use silicon brake fluid, the fluid will not affect the painted reservoir. After cleaning all parts i refitted the level switch components to the "new" cap, i now have a much more solid cap. The bracket is powder coated which i "borrowed" from finished parts from my other P5. That's it for now Peter
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Post by djm16 on May 25, 2014 23:02:49 GMT
I found the new nut that secures the pipe union to the brake reservoir too flimsy. It stretches if you put any tension on it. Where possible I would use the original fittings, failing that then use a decent UNC nut from stock.
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Post by Warwick on May 26, 2014 4:20:11 GMT
The caps are basically the same as those on small cans of paint thinners and similar products. Even those with plastic child-proof caps have an aluminium cap with the same thread underneath the plastic outer cap, which can be removed.
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Post by petervdvelde on Jun 2, 2014 20:42:59 GMT
Warwick, thats a good advise because the standard caps are so flimsy. As i was checking my "easy bleed" tool, i found an old cap from my BMW R90S motorbike brake fluid reservoir and this also has the same thread. In the meantime picked up my powder coated parts: These all look very nice and i only payed Euro 70,-. For this money they shot blasted all the parts, sprayed a layer of primer on it and then powder coated all the parts in grey or black. It is amazing that they can do that for that kind of money. I believe spray cans (primer and top coat) would cost about the same. Also picked up parts from the zinc coater. This are parts from the front headlights, inlet manifold and carburators, rear brakes, front calipers, brake booster and air filter housing. Although the brake fluid canister is ready, i also got another zinc coated and keep this as a spare. The brake booster parts are also not needed at the moment as i bought a new slave brake cylinder with booster. All parts zinc coated costed Euro 85,- which is not bad either The waiting is frustrating but worth it! Thats it for now Peter
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Post by Steve P5b on Jun 2, 2014 22:03:08 GMT
I'm not allowed rover parts in our kitchen, well not since I was caught with rocker covers in the dishwasher.
Nice work Peter
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Post by djm16 on Jun 2, 2014 23:00:25 GMT
OK, so how did you not get all the bolts etc mixed up or lost?
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Post by petervdvelde on Jun 3, 2014 21:54:18 GMT
DJM16, During dismantling i keep the bolts, washers, brackets separated from where these came from and before sending these to the zinc coater, i write down the length, diameter, quantity or make a sketch of all parts. And when the parts come back from the zinc coater, i check if nothing is lost. It takes a few hours but then, i know for sure when parts are lost. Before i did this, i spend hours looking in my workshop for parts and didn't know if these were lost at the zinc coater. Now i also know for sure where the bolts ect. need to be positioned. I must say that on the approx 10 shipments, i had 3 or 4 parts gone missing so the people take care not to loose something. Steve, so this sorting and checking is the only job, i am allowed to do in our kitchen Today i fitted the master and slave brake cylinder, brake fluid reservoir and the pipes and replaced the hoses connecting the pipes to the booster. Also removed the hubs to replace the rusted backplates by the powder coated ones. When dismantling the RH hub, i found out that the parts for adjusting the bearing clearance were not fitted correctly. The ring with the thread was fitted on the outside. Incorrect assembly doesn't cause problems but its difficult to dismantle it. I was lucky to get the small pin out of the hole with a small screwdriver and a strong magnet. On the LH side, it was all was fitted correctly. the wheel bearings are oke but the RH oil seal is damaged Here a picture of the "new" back plates fitted Thats it for now Peter
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Post by petervdvelde on Jun 4, 2014 19:44:52 GMT
Worked on the front calipers. First removed all the protection bolts, plates ect for places which should not be powder coated and then cleaned the caliper halves. As there were no copper rings anymore to hold the dust covers to the caliper body, i glued the dust covers to the caliper body. The sequence i used was first fir the piston seal, then glue the dust cover to the caliper and then apply "brake grease" to the inside of the dust cover and cylinder and then fit the piston. Then fitted the 2 halves together and fitted the new brake pads and the stainless plates. Also cleaned and assembled the powder coated power steering fluid reservoir and fitted a new filter. Thats it for now. I am waiting for the hub oil seals to arrive. Peter
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bigandy
Rover Fanatic
Posts: 351
Location: sunny walthamstow
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Post by bigandy on Jun 5, 2014 18:09:23 GMT
On seeing these photos I'm off to get my old set of heads out a strip/ polish Thanks A Bigandy
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Post by petervdvelde on Jun 6, 2014 21:20:29 GMT
Bigandy, i hope you enjoy it! The oil seals arrived today so these can be fitted tomorrow. In the meantime i assembled the alternator. And replaced all underbonnet hoses and the thermostat. I replaced all the clamps by SS ones with a hexagon head. I blocked the hoses to the rear heater as the tap is seized solid Also replaced the rusted heater hose connection on the manifold by a freshly zinc coated one. The bolt and those of the thermostat housing came loose rather easy. Here a picture of all the old hoses and clamps. After that i put fresh coolant fluid in the system Thats it for now Peter
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