|
Post by Steve P5b on Jun 3, 2015 6:13:43 GMT
Peter. What wheel nuts did you use to fix these wheels to your car please Hi Paul, I have a supplier of chrome plated steel nuts and washers if you need to know.? PM me. I shied away from aluminium nuts as they had signs of stress fractures. Even if I fitted new ones they just do not make you feel confident when cornering!!!
|
|
|
Post by richardlamsdale on Jun 3, 2015 13:05:54 GMT
Hi Steve, I'll send a PM as well - I bought some Jensen wheels last year to fit once re-conditioned. Not got around to it yet but I'll need new chrome plated nuts for them eventually.
|
|
|
Post by Steve P5b on Jun 3, 2015 15:42:13 GMT
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Jun 10, 2015 20:45:39 GMT
Took delivery of the wheels today so will be getting them done soon. Results posted here once done
|
|
|
Post by petervdvelde on Jul 7, 2015 19:48:29 GMT
The set of Jensen alloys have received a coat of spray filler and i sanded it flat with grade 600 sand paper Also made 5 brackets so that the rims can be painted in one go without letting it rest on a freshly painted edge A friend of mine will soon paint the rims black as he has to paint items black for his own project. Peter
|
|
|
Post by enigmas on Jul 8, 2015 2:01:52 GMT
I wouldn't feel comfortable using alloy bolts with UNF threads Peter...too fine a thread, (actually, I wouldn't personally use any alloy bolts to retain a wheel. The aesthetics might be nice, but that's hardly a consideration as I see it!) My daughter's 68 XT Ford Falcon has has alloy wheels and steel lug nuts which are quite old with deformed facing edges. I square them on a lathe, face the sides on a grind stone lightly, then a fine disc sander, then paint them silver. The finish looks fine for my taste. Shiny is not a big issue for me, especially with regard to securing wheels, more so practical functionality and safety.
|
|
|
Post by petervdvelde on Jul 9, 2015 15:54:36 GMT
Vince,
I also have some doubts about using alloy nuts but believe it will be oke. The nuts are very nicely made and the advantage above steel nuts i have seen is that the nuts are partly tapered and this helps centralizing the wheels and lowers the stress on the threads. Also on engines with metric bolts you find normal metric bolts are being used for high torque applications and the threads in aluminum last well there too. A third point is that reputable Jensen Part suppliers supply the alu nuts for years and if it wouldn't work, they would not take the risk and stop selling these.
Time will tell and i assure you, i will keep an eye on the alu nuts for a long period...
Peter
|
|
|
Post by Warwick on Jul 10, 2015 2:41:02 GMT
You would also have to watch out for ham-fisted mechanics or tyre fitters with pneumatic rattle guns.
|
|
|
Post by enigmas on Jul 10, 2015 7:25:10 GMT
With regard to using steel bolts in alloy Peter. The manual for the Leyland P76 alloy V8 comes with a comprehensive section on the correct use of heli-coil inserts. I always feel uncomfortable torquing the head bolts on a Rover or P76 V8...and yes sometimes the threads give-up in the block under the torquing procedure. This obviously meant I then needed to install a heli-coil insert. I prefer to use studs (not bolts) for applications like the cyl head and main bearing caps if they're available.
Warwick makes a good point about ham fisted tyre fitters with rattle guns. When I made some minor repairs to the alloy wheels on my daughter's 66 Falcon I noticed that most of the thick steel washers were imbedded into the locating holes for the nuts. This can't occur if using a wheel brace.
|
|
|
Post by petervdvelde on Aug 24, 2015 19:49:51 GMT
Picked up my Jensen wheels which are painted now. Removed all the masking tape and am very happy with the result. Will arrange some tyres soon. Peter
|
|
|
Post by Kev on Aug 29, 2015 8:18:40 GMT
Picked up my Jensen wheels which are painted now. Removed all the masking tape and am very happy with the result. Will arrange some tyres soon. Peter Very Very Nice, I remember getting mine back, all shiny & like new, BIG Smile on my face. Kev.
|
|
|
Post by enigmas on Aug 29, 2015 10:29:07 GMT
As Kev said, very nice Peter. Wish I could locate a set in OZ.
As an aside could you provide me with a few specific details about the wheels? 1. Do the wheels fit straight on with no interference. 2. What width are they? (Inside edge of tyre bead in the rim) 3. What is the back spacing from the wheel fitting flange surface to the back edge of the wheel (not the edge where the tyre bead fits but the very outer edge of the rim)
|
|
|
Post by petervdvelde on Aug 29, 2015 16:52:00 GMT
Very Very Nice, I remember getting mine back, all shiny & like new, BIG Smile on my face. Kev. Very good description Kev Will get the dimensions for you Vince. Assembled the modified Rostyle center caps with SS m3 bolts and locking nuts and gave the inside a coat of Tectyl I bought a set of Michelin 205 65 R15 tires. Would have liked a little bigger tires but choice was limited. Got the tires fitted and asked the guys to fit the aluminum nuts not with air rattle gun which they did. The aluminum nuts are very well made and fit like a glove . Really like the Jensen wheels and got a lot of positive compliments already. I was a lot of work to clean them up but a lot more affordable then the Rostyle wheels. Peter
|
|
|
Post by petervdvelde on Aug 29, 2015 16:53:24 GMT
A picture of the car with the wheels fitted
|
|
|
Post by Warwick on Aug 30, 2015 0:53:28 GMT
Here's that old list of common stud patterns.
Rover SD1 wheels will fit the following:
Rover P5 Rover P6 (Four cylinder and V8) Jeep Grand Cherokee (1999 to 2000) Jensen Interceptor & CV8
They also have the same stud pattern as the following, but not necessarily the correct offset:
Jeep Cherokee Austin 1800 Austin-Healy 3000 Buick LeSabre, Centurion, Riviera, & Electra (1935 to 1987) Cadillac DeVille & Fleetwood (1939 to 1989) Cadillac Seville (1977 to 1979) Chevrolet ¾ ton vans Chevrolet Bel Air, Biscayne, Impala, Caprice, & Kingswood (1971 to 1976) (as above with HD package wagons 1977 to 1989) Chevrolet Blazer 2WD (1971 to 1983) Chrysler Imperial (1967 to 1971) Dodge Journey, aka Fiat Freemont (from 2009) Ford LTD (1973 to 1975) Ford Thunderbird (1972 to 1976) Ford Galaxie, LTD, Custom 1973 to 1978 Lincoln, all except Versailles, 1960 to 1967 and 1973 to 1979 Ford Mercury – (1955 to 1960) Ford Cougar & XR7 (1973 to 1977) Oldsmobile (all full-size RWD 1940 to 1997) Packard (all 1951 to 1955) Pontiac (all full-size RWD 1940 to 1986)
|
|
|
Post by petervdvelde on Aug 31, 2015 20:47:09 GMT
As Kev said, very nice Peter. Wish I could locate a set in OZ. As an aside could you provide me with a few specific details about the wheels? 1. Do the wheels fit straight on with no interference. 2. What width are they? (Inside edge of tyre bead in the rim) 3. What is the back spacing from the wheel fitting flange surface to the back edge of the wheel (not the edge where the tyre bead fits but the very outer edge of the rim) Vince, following answers to your question 1- the wheels fit straight without any interference or modifications 2- this dimensions is difficult to measure as i don't have a rim without a tire but i estimated it to be 170mm 3- this is 125mm Regards Peter
|
|
|
Post by enigmas on Aug 31, 2015 21:53:55 GMT
Thanks Peter. So the rims are 6" - 6 1 /2" wide and the back spacing is 5".
|
|
|
Post by petervdvelde on Sept 1, 2015 21:01:48 GMT
Thanks Peter. So the rims are 6" - 6 1 /2" wide and the back spacing is 5". Holland is a metric country Vince but i believe your calculation is correct Peter
|
|