Guus
Rover Fanatic
Posts: 196
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Post by Guus on May 29, 2015 14:52:30 GMT
Hi all, I just received my new wiring loom from Autosparks, and will get started next week. Just wondered if anybody might have some useful tips for this challenging job? My approach would be to strip the interior of chairs and carpets and remove the dash. Under the bonnet I would cut all wires from the consumers, leaving a couple of inches left for reference (same underneath the car)
Then I would remove the wire-packages form the holes in the body, and cut out a few inch and tape them near the holes, again, for reference.
After this I should be able to fit the new wiring. But any tips are very welcome! Thanks Guus
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Post by Phil Nottingham on May 29, 2015 17:25:34 GMT
Beware first testing it - try a meter preferably or test light and insert a 15A line fuse in between the main battery clamp and battery + post just in case. There will be some old cables which cannot be deciphered as to correct colour an tracer so memorise the wiring diagram
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Post by johnwp5bcoupe on May 29, 2015 17:37:39 GMT
Beware first testing it - try a meter preferably or test light and insert a 15A line fuse in between the main battery clamp and battery + post just in case. There will be some old cables which cannot be deciphered as to correct colour an tracer so memorise the wiring diagram I agree with Phil don't rely on being able to distinguish colours on the old loom or the new loom colours being exactly the same! Good luck Guus take your time sound like you have a good plan
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Post by Warwick on May 30, 2015 1:15:47 GMT
Photographs! Systematically take lots and lots of photos, Guus. You'll be surprised by what you forget between pulling the old one out and putting the new one in. Even things that seemed obvious. All it takes is an unexpected delay, you forget a few of the seemingly obvious details, and it all gets more difficult. Where necessary, in more complicated areas, print the photos and write notes on them. Digital photos are cheap.
Have a selection of plastic cable ties, twist ties (those paper and wire things for rubbish bags), clothes pegs, bulldog clips, etc. It's handy to be able temporarily clips or tie the loom approximately in place as you go. This lets you lay it out roughly in places to check that it reaches, and to find those points where you need to bend it, or to remove a kink that shouldn't be there, or to hold it while you warm it a bit with a hair-dryer to make it easier to bend or straighten.
Good luck.
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Guus
Rover Fanatic
Posts: 196
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Post by Guus on Jun 10, 2015 6:07:34 GMT
Attachment DeletedThanks all, Started yesterday with trying to understand the new loom and mark the parts as 'to dash-right', 'to dash-left', 'to fuse-box-right' etc. For now I will only do the main loom (there are two other, separate, looms for the rear of the car). Yes I made pictures and some movies about the old loom. Heck of a job removing the old loom... I already decided to remove (or alt least loosen) the bonnet when fitting the new loom, as it goes underneath its hinges. Removing the old loom , I came across a strange sort of plug exactly behind the steering column. It is a flat brown box with about 5 spades in front and (I think) 1 behind). There are 5 identical brown-white wires connected to them (thick wires!). But the box itself doesn't seem to have any electronic in it. Does anybody now the function of this box? It will be quite a job reconnecting the new brown wires to them. I made some pictures and put them om Flickr, but I can't seem to obtain the url of the picture to insert in the message. Thnx Guus
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Post by johnwp5bcoupe on Jun 10, 2015 6:45:07 GMT
That strip/block is a common connection terminal block/bus bar Guus
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Guus
Rover Fanatic
Posts: 196
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Post by Guus on Jun 10, 2015 7:04:12 GMT
Thanks John. Sorry, I'm not familiar with connection terminals.
In the old situation there were 6 connected (I think brown-white) wires, the new loom however has 2 wires with a spade-connector: one brwon-white, one brown, and two brown-white and two brown wires without any connectors.
I'm wondering whether the last fout wires can be left out. Do you by any chance know where in the diagram I should plot this connector?
Guus
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Post by Phil Nottingham on Jun 10, 2015 10:22:54 GMT
The Ammeter Shunt connects to it I think?
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Guus
Rover Fanatic
Posts: 196
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Post by Guus on Jun 10, 2015 15:54:49 GMT
Two wires from the back of the terminal block connect straight to the ammeter underneath the dash. So is the shunt in the ammeter itself? Attachment Deleted
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Post by Phil Nottingham on Jun 10, 2015 17:20:17 GMT
No its a separate unit on P5B's - P5's do not have it
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Guus
Rover Fanatic
Posts: 196
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Post by Guus on Jun 10, 2015 19:53:47 GMT
This puzzles me... If the wires come straight out of the terminal into the ammeter, then where is the shunt?? in any case: I will start measuring every wire in the new loom... Attachment Deleted
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Post by Phil Nottingham on Jun 10, 2015 21:13:39 GMT
Yes and No. The wires do go straight to the ammeter but the shunt (as the name means) is a little flat black box with a resistance wire in it that diverts approx 50% of the current through it as it connects in parallel across the Ammeter terminals. This little box should be found close to the terminal strip (bus-bar) and is vital and must be connected between the CORRECT two terminals THAT GO to the ammeter - refer wiring diagram #6 on LHS so look again underneath the dash at the rear but ABOVE the strip roverp5.proboards.com/thread/6244/charging-wiring-route-ammeter-locationI hesitated to say use SEARCH so I did it for you!
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Guus
Rover Fanatic
Posts: 196
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Post by Guus on Jun 11, 2015 8:38:00 GMT
Thanx Phil! That's valuable info. Very strange that Autosparks put spade-connectors to only 2 wires (out of 6) so that leaves me having to put the old spades on the new wires (that is: cutting several inches before the spades and solder them to the new wires). Great relief that the terminal connector is indeed a single connection point, so I don't have to bother about where to put which wire. But Phil, I inspected the space behind the steering column very thoroughly (it is completely empty now, so no chance of missing it), but I cant'really find he shunt... Attachment DeletedHAS ANYBODY SEEN MY SHUNT?
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Guus
Rover Fanatic
Posts: 196
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Post by Guus on Jun 11, 2015 18:12:15 GMT
Could it be the terminal connector itself is the shunt? I found a previous message from John about this. I measured the resistance between the two connectors for the ammeter, and it read 10,4 Ohm. The diagram shows the shunt as a device in which 6 wires come together, exactly the number of wires connected to the terminal... Thanks John, yes I do mean the ammeter shunt where all the brown cables are. the spades on there are bigger than the 9.5mm
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Post by johnwp5bcoupe on Jun 11, 2015 18:44:14 GMT
Could it be the terminal connector itself is the shunt? I found a previous message from John about this. I measured the resistance between the two connectors for the ammeter, and it read 10,4 Ohm. The diagram shows the shunt as a device in which 6 wires come together, exactly the number of wires connected to the terminal... Guus you must have a shunt! if you mean the meter reads 10.4 ohms that is only 1.15 amps FSD? on the P5b the shunt is between the terminals Brown and Brown and White on the block!
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Post by johnwp5bcoupe on Jun 12, 2015 6:53:51 GMT
This puzzles me... If the wires come straight out of the terminal into the ammeter, then where is the shunt?? in any case: I will start measuring every wire in the new loom... View AttachmentI have just noticed this Guss that resistance is equivalent to 40 amps so looks like the Ammeter connection?
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Guus
Rover Fanatic
Posts: 196
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Post by Guus on Jun 16, 2015 19:51:07 GMT
Thank you, John & Phil, The shunt will be somewhere in the terminal block I guess so I don't worry anymore about that. I wanted to be sure and decided to number all wire-ends and map them in the diagram. Then I made sure I new which wires go to which device (relais, light or other) and even marked to what terminal it goes.
This was (and still is) quite a puzzle! Doing this brought up some unclear things about the loom, in relation with the diagram. Phil, I will send you two pictures: one of (a piece of) the loom, which I don't understand and one of the diagram. I guess I will have to ask Autospark about this, but perhaps you can help out. Thanks Guus
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Post by Phil Nottingham on Jun 16, 2015 21:23:54 GMT
The diagram is for the early models only and corrected known errors that Rover never did even though they did eventually update theirs for later TP coil models but not early ones presumably because BLMC were cutting costs heavily by then as production should have ceased by 1971.
Having said that the wiring is very simple - the TP coil models actually being less logical so yours should be OK as the Battery/ammeter circuits did not change just the ignition ones
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Post by richardlamsdale on Mar 29, 2017 21:28:46 GMT
Hi Guus, realise this is an old thread, but I'm in the process of replacing the wiring loom in my car as well (the existing loom had been badly hacked around). I just removed the connector block under the dash (the one with the ½ inch terminals) and it looks like the shunt is built-in to the connector block. Maybe this is a P5B thing, rather than it being in a separate box as mentioned in an earlier post. In mine, the brass of the connector block is made in two halves, with a silver coloured link between the two halves - the link is the shunt for the ammeter, and has two wires permanently attached either side of the shunt (one brown, one brown/white) for the ammeter. Just for completeness, if anyone needs any ½ inch spade connectors, Autosparks sell them here: www.autosparks.co.uk/electrical-components/terminals/spade-terminals/12mm-female-spade-terminal.htmlThey are quite expensive, but there's not exactly a large market for them (maybe just you and me!). Autosparks also supply the correct braided cable in all of the colour combinations needed. I bought a NOS loom that's in excellent condition with no deterioration of the insulation, but wanted to make a few changes and keep it looking totally original, so bought some braided cable and some pvc cable to match the existing loom.
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