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Post by Steve P5b on Jul 10, 2015 15:28:12 GMT
youtu.be/B-R2WG9MMmcIs there too much free play in this joint. I'm not sure. Any experts know the answer? What is the correct amount of free play required here, I cant find any thing in the workshop manual. Help please
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Post by johnwp5bcoupe on Jul 10, 2015 16:52:52 GMT
youtu.be/B-R2WG9MMmcIs there too much free play in this joint. I'm not sure. Any experts know the answer? What is the correct amount of free play required here, I cant find any thing in the workshop manual. Help please Unless someone has got a new one Steve I will be surprised if you get an answer to that one  It looks like on the video as its not free play but forced? |
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Post by Steve P5b on Jul 10, 2015 17:00:46 GMT
It is being forced in a vice John, compressing the spring. I'm wondering how tight or loose the joint has to be to function correctly. Are there any specifications for this that exist that you know?
Thanks
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Post by johnwp5bcoupe on Jul 10, 2015 17:32:30 GMT
It is being forced in a vice John, compressing the spring. I'm wondering how tight or loose the joint has to be to function correctly. Are there any specifications for this that exist that you know? Thanks A difficult one Steve as long as the ball isn't sloppy (held firm) and not rusty/pitted I would be happy with that  |
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Post by Steve P5b on Jul 10, 2015 19:58:32 GMT
Thank you
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Post by lagain on Jul 10, 2015 20:54:42 GMT
Just checked the new one I have in my wardrobe and unable to find any movement in it at all, although I do not have a vice to try it in !
When I checked the pair on the car some years ago they were fine and each year I carefully ease up the gaiter and squeeze in some grease.
To check the top and bottom ball joints properly you really need to disconnect the linkage so that the hub can move on its own, when it is all connected it is difficult to detect any movement. With it dis-connected I found play in both top ball joints and replaced them.
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Post by enigmas on Jul 10, 2015 22:39:25 GMT
Steve, the ball joint illustrated in the video may be ok as it's spring loaded! I've used the same test to force grease into the socket area. I've also tapped grease nipples into the back, compressed them and then used the grease gun. You would need to section one to provide definitive evidence for viability of other balljoints. (The joint shown is a tie rod end in the steering linkage)
If you were referring to the large lower suspension ball joint that's a different story. (Refer below)
The lower ball joints are easy to rebuild if they haven't been previously damaged by ham fisted mechanics. I have a few spares that I've collected over the years but still use my originals. I don't remove the ball joint from its housing, rather I remove the complete lower suspension arm and 'restore' the ball joint in a large vice whilst it's in the arm. There's no internal spring within the ball joint. There are 2 cupped synthetic seats one at either end of the large bal seated within the housing. These are normally reusable if no one has pounded on the end of the ball joint spindle with a hammer...especially if the large brass plug has been loosened or backed off whilst in situ. The seat at the plug end is easily removable as it seats in the plug internal cavity. There is a concave steel washer under this. The other seat should be left in place as most of the load of the car's weight works on this. There may be slight deformation as it has conformed to its housing. My advice is not to remove it. Generally they are in very good shape.
Once the ball joint has been disassembled and cleaned, grease the components with a good quality EP grease. Reassemble the few components and tighten the large brass nut down until all play had been removed, but you are still able to move the spindle with a firm hand pressure. I imagine in the factory there would have been a spring scale or something similar that would test the ft lb loading imposed on the spindle when the nut was tightened.
Note.
The synthetic 'plastic' cups can be broken but are obviously very resilient if treated with care and do not have shock loads imposed on them. This is more likely to occur if they are impacted with a loose assembly rather than a firm one.
Tightening and reconditioning the ball joints like this makes a major difference to the cars handling and tracking.
Ball joint maintenance.
Unfortunately forcing grease under the ball joint boot will do little to increase the longevity of the ball joint as the bottom cup takes most of the load and none of the greased applied in this manner will reach it. If the ball joint hasn't been disassembled since the car's manufacturing date the grease within will be hard and dried. So it's a job best done now!
Oil pumped between the boot and the ball joint would be a better remedial option as it will work its way to the seat.
The current repro boots rot under the action of grease. So they're temporary at best.
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Post by Warwick on Jul 11, 2015 2:07:39 GMT
Just checked the new one I have in my wardrobe ... Now there's a man who knows how to treat his stock of spares. Well done George! |
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Post by Steve P5b on Jul 11, 2015 6:54:17 GMT
Great stuff, thank you all.
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