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Post by petervdvelde on Apr 27, 2018 23:33:55 GMT
Here a picture of the partsmaual with manual choke. I am not sure if the AED carbs have item nr 47 and other parts in that area which are needed for the manual choke. I also bought that set from Wadhams but had a spare set of carbs with manual choke and rebuild and fitted these Peter
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Post by johnwp5bcoupe on Apr 28, 2018 8:22:31 GMT
Here a picture of the partsmaual with manual choke. I am not sure if the AED carbs have item nr 47 and other parts in that area which are needed for the manual choke. I also bought that set from Wadhams but had a spare set of carbs with manual choke and rebuild and fitted these Peter The AED carbs are the same Peter you just have to remove the stop/adjuster on the Jet, I didn't know the carbs in question are HIF's!! the throttle linkages don't affect the fitting a manual choke.
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Post by kiwip5b on May 2, 2018 3:33:14 GMT
I have made a tentative start on fitting the Wadham's-supplied manual choke conversion kit. I have bypassed the fuel line to the AED. Is there any reason not to leave the AED in place for appearances sake?
I have also fitted the bracket and Cold Start handle under the parcel shelf. I painted the bracket matt black before fitting. I had to find two short hex-head self-tapping screws (not supplied with kit) in order to secure the bracket.
I can't see any handily available grommets to pass the cable through the firewall, so I presume I will have to drill a hole through it. Any suggestions regarding height/location for said hole?
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Post by kiwip5b on May 2, 2018 3:38:38 GMT
As regards removal of the stop/adjuster on the jet, can you please give some more explanation for how to go about that?
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Post by kiwip5b on May 2, 2018 22:31:06 GMT
Thank you dicky, I found the 'hidden grommet' by poking around with an awl about 5cm to the nearside of the wiring tube that emerges beside the steering column. It is easy enough to push the cold-start cable through the mastic once one knows where it is.
Comparing the list of items in your 1990s kit with what Wadham's supplied to me reveals that the latter lacks a number of things, including; the aforementioned self-tapping screws for the cold-start handle bracket, a manifold blanking plate for the AED and the clips that hold the cold-start cable to the air-cleaner inlet pipe. There may be other items lacking, if so I'll post in due course.
My back is whingeing about all the unsupported bending I've done already, so I have stopped work for today. Any advice on how to remove the lock-stops from the carb' needles?
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Post by petervdvelde on May 3, 2018 17:01:32 GMT
. The clips for the splitter unit on top of the air intake should really have been included They do turn up from time to time on the net etc. The clips fitted to the tool board in the boot can also be used for clamping the splitter and these should be easier to find Peter
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Post by kiwip5b on May 3, 2018 21:04:44 GMT
Thank you Dicky and Peter. Just to clarify, the Wadham's-supplied kit does not include any vacuum gauge equipment, it's purely a manual cold-start conversion. Given that the cause of all this is a leaky AED, I am concerned that if I don't remove it, I will get excessive air entering the manifold through the 'retired' AED. So I think I will need to make up a blanking plate.
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Post by kiwip5b on May 5, 2018 4:41:13 GMT
Here a picture of the partsmaual with manual choke. I am not sure if the AED carbs have item nr 47 and other parts in that area which are needed for the manual choke. I also bought that set from Wadhams but had a spare set of carbs with manual choke and rebuild and fitted these Peter Peter Thank you for the excellent diagram from the parts manual. As regards coil spring no.45, which appears to go behind the cam lever, can you please clarify where its ends engage? The diagram is a bit blurry in that area. Also, the Wadham's kit contains four spring washers of diameter slightly larger than the cam lever bolt but they don't appear to belong there. Any idea where they go? cheers Stephen
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Post by petervdvelde on May 5, 2018 18:23:35 GMT
Stephen, Underneath some picture that may help Peter
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Post by kiwip5b on May 9, 2018 2:31:01 GMT
Thanks Peter. I think I'm just about there. Everything is installed, all levers and springs operate in their correct sense, and the car starts! It probably shouldn't have started because I haven't yet adjusted anything properly. It is idling too fast, so that obviously needs adjusting. Also, I'm not sure how far the levers should rotate with the cold start handle fully out. Any advice gratefully received.
I'm now wondering if it was all really necessary since, with an electric fuel pump, doesn't opening the throttle slightly while cranking the engine have the same effect as all the cold start paraphernalia?
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Post by kiwip5b on May 9, 2018 20:18:15 GMT
Thanks Dicky. With the cold start handle fully in, should the jets be just on the point of being lowered or will that open them too far when the cold start handle is fully out?
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Post by kiwip5b on May 10, 2018 4:37:39 GMT
All is now complete and working well, thanks to all the helpful advice provided via the Forum! While it is all still fresh in my mind, here are some brief instructions on how to fit Wadham's manual choke conversion kit, which you may follow at your peril. The job has three main phases:
Phase 1 - Removal of the AED 1. Remove the fuel line that feeds the AED. You will need to cut the plastic connections with a Stanley knife. Install a new hose directly from the filter to where the old T-piece connected to the left carburettor float chamber. Use the correct size and grade of fuel line, any old bit of rubber tube won't do. You will need hose clamps to secure the new hose, do not overtighten. [Fuel line and hose clamps not supplied with kit]. 2. Remove the hot-air connection from the AED to the exhaust manifold hot-air takeoff. The latter can remain in place without doing any harm. 3. Remove the AED overflow pipe that leads to the left carburettor intake. 4. Remove the large rubber fuel line from the AED to the inlet manifold. 5. Unbolt the AED and throw it into a dark corner of the garage but remember to ... 6. ... refit the bolts that previously secured the AED bracket. 7. Cap the holes left by steps 3. and 4.. Your local rubber goods merchant should be able to sell you the necessary 'caps' (i.e. the big one will be a chair leg end). [Caps not supplied with kit].
Phase 2 - Fitting of the cold start T-handle and cable 1. Spray T-handle bracket with matte black paint and allow to dry. 2. Mount bracket under the front parcel shelf, parallel with the reserve fuel tank handle but well to its left, just to the right of the centre console. This will give the cable the straightest route through the firewall and protect your shins in the event of an accident. The bracket can be mounted by pilot drilling and then using short stubby self-tapping hex-head screws. I say hex-head because they are easier to apply the necessary force to, to make them self tap through the metal of the parcel shelf. [Screws not supplied with kit]. 3. Working under the bonnet, identify the existing unused grommet in the firewall by probing with an awl about 5cm to the right of where the wiring loom passes through the firewall behind the pulley shown in one of the photos above. Leave the awl poking through the firewall while you return to the driver's footwell. Peel back the carpet until you can see the end of the awl. Remember the spot, remove the awl and you should be able to push the end of the Cold Start cable through the grommet with little trouble. If necessary, open up a small hole in the grommet first. 4. The cable will probably then run straight into the back of some pipe or bracket or other, so you will need to return to the underbonnet area to clear it and lead the cable forward in such a way that it has a clear run forward, well away from the exhaust manifold.
Phase 3 - The carburettor connections 1. If you haven't already, remove the air-cleaner and intake horns so that you have clear access to the backs of the carbs. I then placed a large rectangular mirror against the heater box to give a better view. 2. Fit the two short duplex cables into their sheaths and insert the sheaths into the holes provided on the back of the carburettor housing. Secure them with the retaining clips provided in the kit. Note, the un-ferruled ends of the cables go at the bottom. 3. Before unbolting the existing lever assemblies from the backs of the carbs (these are the things that look like simplified versions of the spring and lever assemblies in the kit), note well how the spring between the lever mechanism and carb body is arranged, i.e. which way around the spring goes and where its ends engage. Note that the long end of the spring is against the carb body and engages with a lug, whereas the short end of the spring engages with an indentation in the bottom of the lever assembly. 4. Completing one side at a time, unbolt the lever assembly and remove the old springs from behind it. You will find that you also have to prise off the starlock washer from the fixing link bracket in order to remove the lever assembly. You won't need the starlock washers again, since new ones are included in the kit. 5. Place the new spring over the boss on the carb, ensuring you have it the right way around. Do not attempt to hook its long end over its lug just yet. Offer up the new lever assembly, ensuring that it is the correct one for its side (see existing for orientation), that it also engages with its cam lever, and that the short end of the pick-up lever spring finds the indentation in the lever arm. 6. Before securing the lever assembly, you should fix the new starlock washers in place. That way, you can manoeuvre the assembly so that the end of the cam lever onto which you wish to fit the starlock washer is up against the boss on the carburettor body. This will make pressing on the starlock much easier and avoid bending anything. I used a very small socket to help me press on the starlock, otherwise it is very hard on the fingers. 7. Secure the lever assembly using the new bolt, skid washer and sleeve provided. Check that the short end of the spring is still engaged with its indentation in the lever arm. This is difficult to see because it is underneath the lever assembly. 8. Now you can look for the long end of the spring and, using a combination of screwdrivers to push and catch it, and long-nosed pliers to pull it through, secure it around its lug. If all this has gone correctly, operating the lever assembly should lower the jet and releasing the lever should cause the spring to fully raise the jet. If this doesn't all happen smoothly and without catching, then you have done something wrong. 9. Connect the single Cold Start cable to the duplex cables using the plastic connector and covers provided. Ensure that you fit the covers before making the connection. This is a fiddly operation and you may need to clean out the grooves in the plastic connector before the cables will slot into it correctly. If you need more length from the single cable, the metal adjuster back up the cable should help. 10. At the bottom end of each duplex cable, poke the new cable retaining nut through the hole in the outer end of the cam lever, insert the cable through the eyelet and hold the nut on its hex faces with long-nosed pliers while you do up the screw. Do not over-tighten the screw or you will crush the cable, making it very difficult to push back through the eyelet should it pull back out for any reason. 11. Adjust the amount of cable protruding through the retaining nuts so that, with the Cold Start T-handle fully out and locked (twist it a quarter turn to lock it) the jets should be dropped about 13mm, i.e. there will be that much brass shaft showing beneath the carburettor. 12. You should now have nothing left of the kit apart from two each screws and springs and four spring washers. I have no idea where the spring washers are supposed to go, although I did need one of them to take up some space under one of the lever mechanism pivot bolts. As for the springs and screws, the spring is placed over the thread and the screws are screwed into the cranked arm just inboard of the lever mechanisms. Adjust the screws to limit the travel of the lever mechanism. 13. Affix a pair of of tool clips to the top of the air cleaner inlet to hold the cable junction central. [Tool clips not included in kit, you'll find them at your local ironmongers or hardware store]. To secure the tool clips, I used the existing holes in the air cleaner inlet and a narrow strip of cork tile inside the air cleaner inlet, into which the thin screws provided with the tool clips found easy entry. The tool clips don't have to carry much load, they just hold the cable junction central. 14. After all this, a thorough check for free movement and fuel leaks, followed by a carburettor re-tune, are recommended.
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Post by johnwp5bcoupe on May 10, 2018 8:17:58 GMT
The Old Girl is out the Carcoon after 6 months, as usual disconnect the petrol pump crank over until I get oil pressure, connect pump and on the second turn of the key she starts on an AED!
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Post by petervdvelde on May 10, 2018 9:44:46 GMT
Good to hear you got it working and thanks to your list this thread is now a usefull guide for someone else wanting to do this conversion. One remark: to fit the T handle there are original brackets where both the choke T bar and fuel reserve T bar can be fitted on and then you can use exsisting threads instead of self tapers. One of Dicky pictures shows this bracket. You need to dismantle the fuel reserve cable which is not easy accesable
Peter
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Post by kiwip5b on May 11, 2018 0:53:46 GMT
I noticed the two-handle bracket but the bracket supplied by Wadhams is for the Cold Start handle only. I think I prefer being able to shuffle it all the way over to the left, as it's easier to reach than the reserve tank handle.
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SamP
Rover Rookie
Burnt Grey P5b bought March 2020. Also Rover P4 110 since January 2002. Not really a Rookie!
Posts: 7
Location: Farnborough, Hampshire
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Post by SamP on Apr 3, 2020 13:29:58 GMT
I am now in the position as kiwip5b was back in 2018. I have the manual choke conversion kit from Wadhams, but without any instructions, it's going to a challenge! I've recently bought a 1970 saloon which still has the AED, and I am about to remove it. If there are any instructions and/or pictures that would help, I would be very grateful. I know that there are some SU publications on the market; do any of these cover the manual conversion?
Addendum: I have just seen some earlier posts that were not showing before; I think I may have what I need now. Apologies.
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SamP
Rover Rookie
Burnt Grey P5b bought March 2020. Also Rover P4 110 since January 2002. Not really a Rookie!
Posts: 7
Location: Farnborough, Hampshire
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Post by SamP on Apr 9, 2020 9:56:15 GMT
I am extremely grateful Kiwip5b for the excellent description; Thank You! As an earlier post of mine implied, I was at a loss how to start having seen all the parts supplied by Wadhams, but your description of how to do the job, with printed copy in the garage, made it all achievable. Yesterday afternoon, having made the final connections, the car started on the second short turn of the key! Brilliant!
My only variations to your guide relate to your Section 3. I found it nigh on impossible to get the lever mechanisms and springs into place on the backs of the carburettors, even with a large mirror in place, so I took the carbs off, one at a time and fitted not only the lever mechanisms/springs, but also the screws and springs that go into the cranked arms that you mention at the end in para 12.
Before going back to the garage, can anyone tell me why there is a large hole in the rear underside of the air cleaner box? Is it a warm air intake for winter? Mine has duck tape to blank it off in the past.
Finally, should I be concerned that the tube that protrudes from the inlet manifold that connects the hose to the radiator header tank was blocked? A hand held twist drill cleared the blockage, but it was oily in the tube! Troubles ahead?
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Post by harvey on Apr 9, 2020 15:48:34 GMT
Before going back to the garage, can anyone tell me why there is a large hole in the rear underside of the air cleaner box? The hole is supposed to be there, and should have a specially shaped rubber grommet to block it up. IIRC it's there to give clearance to something that would foul on the body of the air cleaner without it, but I can't remember what that is offhand.
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SamP
Rover Rookie
Burnt Grey P5b bought March 2020. Also Rover P4 110 since January 2002. Not really a Rookie!
Posts: 7
Location: Farnborough, Hampshire
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Post by SamP on Apr 11, 2020 16:53:50 GMT
Thanks Harvey. Possibly the heater control wheel; glad that’s solved.
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Post by Phil Nottingham on Apr 11, 2020 17:08:25 GMT
It is to clear the heater valve - a special moulded rubber grommet with a depressed centre should be glued in the oval hole
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