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Post by inspector0208 on May 20, 2016 21:17:30 GMT
my rover p5b coupe is ready to be sprayed zircon blue. 3 years ago i brought 6 litrs of cellulose for the job because if the car gets scratched it can be rubbed out accidents do happen. possibly cellulose i think is easy to work with being a amateur my friend who will be spraying the car wants to use 2 pack because he says you get a better finish / gloss if i go 2 pack what happens to my cellulose have i wasted my money ideas any body
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Post by cstorey on May 20, 2016 22:30:47 GMT
Well, 2 pack usually produces a shinier finish , to the point that it nearly always looks unoriginal , and unless your friend has appropriate breathing apparatus , the process is highly dangerous , with isocyanate sensitisation having very toxic, and sometimes fatal , consequences. It also demands a highly sanitised atmosphere to be successful, since it takes a long time to go off and contamination with airborne dust is a real hazard . You can still use cellulose on top of two pack if touching up is needed, however, so you have not entirely wasted your money, but the costs of the 2 pack will be considerable . Furthermore, some but not all 2 packs require a low bake oven to be successful
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Post by inspector0208 on May 21, 2016 18:23:37 GMT
thank you for your reply i think you are saying go with cellulose being original would i be correct
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Post by lagain on May 21, 2016 20:50:32 GMT
I would go with the cellulose
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Post by johnwp5bcoupe on May 21, 2016 20:57:37 GMT
What's wrong with the paint Richard it looks lovely  |
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Post by johnwp5bcoupe on May 21, 2016 21:18:27 GMT
It's the O/S that's being done John,plus bonnet,boot,scuttle and possibly roof. Too much polishing Richard |
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Post by johnwp5bcoupe on May 22, 2016 7:50:27 GMT
Not really John,I haven't touched it because I'm a bit confused about how you deal with water-based two pack! With cellulose it was easy,you just polished and took a very small amount of paint off each time but with two pack you are effectively polishing the clear top coat but NOT the colour so I don't really know what is needed to maintain the shine if anything is needed at all.Even the pro's seem divided on this! Perhaps Multitech might have an opinion? In the 10 months since the N/S was done,the lustre has remained. Mine is 2k Acrylic Richard no Lacquer cuts just the same as Cellulose just a lot harder when fully cured  |
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Post by johnwp5bcoupe on May 22, 2016 16:17:15 GMT
I still don't really understand what is actually being polished when the finish is a clear coat. I do know that the clear coat comes in various degrees of hardness and in theory given enough elbow grease, I assume that you could polish right through to the colour basecoat which is probably very thin unlike old-fashioned celluose? I suppose the appropriate products would be the kind of stuff "diamondbrite" produces but I can't see any point in using the traditional car polishes and T cut which work by removing a microscopic layer of paint on each polish. I'll have a good chat to the boys at the Paint Shop and see if I can improve my knowledge of modern paint systems. If they use Water Base Coat and then Lacquer what you cut is the Lacquer, 2k Acrylic is colour (gloss) all the way through just like Cellulose only a harder finish! |
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