|
Post by bissmire on Aug 24, 2016 9:11:18 GMT
Morning chaps, as above i'm suffering from an extremely hot ignition barrel.
I would think a short circuit somewhere, was wondering if anyone has encountered the same problem.
Many thanks
Jamie
|
|
|
Post by Warwick on Aug 24, 2016 13:33:26 GMT
I'd disconnect the battery at the terminal until you find out what the problem is. Too risky.
|
|
|
Post by bissmire on Aug 24, 2016 14:28:56 GMT
I've been driving it like this for some time now, yesterday I couldn't turn the ignition off for some time, when the car finally switched off I then could not retrieve the key. I took the barrel out and then apart and managed to get it working again...But obviously a bit worrying to say the least.
|
|
|
Post by johnwp5bcoupe on Aug 24, 2016 15:42:19 GMT
It shouldn't get that hot!! as long as you haven't got loads of ICE etc going through it if you have? run extra feeds, if you haven't I would check the spade terminals for signs of overheating possible arcing thick White/ White and Red wires, if this is a regular thing as Warwick says be safe not sorry
|
|
|
Post by Phil Nottingham on Aug 24, 2016 17:28:25 GMT
If its not being overloaded (6RA Alternator Field relay stuck on?) the the switch contacts have worn/tarnished. Replace switch - they are cheap
|
|
|
Post by bissmire on Aug 24, 2016 17:57:44 GMT
Thanks for your input chaps.
I no longer have a 6RA Alternator Relay as my recent replacement alternator from Guy's Auto Electrics said i would no longer need one with the Alternator he built for me.
Also, the barrel was getting hot before the alternator was replaced.
Battery now disconnected ;]
|
|
|
Post by bissmire on Aug 24, 2016 18:06:52 GMT
No ICE.
|
|
|
Post by johnwp5bcoupe on Aug 24, 2016 18:42:08 GMT
Jamie most if not all is protected after the switch by a fuse! make sure they are correct amperage! I said Red and White earlier sorry it is a thick Brown and White wire which is the main feed to pin 1 on the switch is this terminal getting hot? wire away from the switch getting hot? Just switching on what is the Amp Meter doing? Disconnect the ignition coil leave ignition on what happens? If you had the problem before the alternator was changed is it exactly the same? Some simple checks Jamie if its been doing this for a while and no smoke it may be as Phil says the switch?
|
|
|
Post by bissmire on Aug 25, 2016 8:02:10 GMT
Appreciated John.
I'm on it.
|
|
|
Post by djm16 on Aug 25, 2016 10:12:03 GMT
The ignition switch carries the following currents through just one of its brass contacts:
coil 4-8A (intermittent) heater blower motors x2 6-12A windscreen wipers 6A indicators 4A
Maximum therefore around 30A if everything is turned on. If the the brass is oxidised it will develop a contact resistance through the oxidised layer (1/2 Ohm is not unusual).
With a 3 Ohm coil as the only current draw, the heat generated in the ignition switch will be:
4x4x0.5 (I^2 R) or 8W. A small soldering iron is 20W so that gives you some idea!
The more time the contacts are getting hot, the thicker the oxidised later, and the greater the heat generated.
Replace the ignition switch. The greater risk is not a fire but the sudden loss of power the ignition switch goes open circuit and the engine stops.
|
|
|
Post by bissmire on Oct 18, 2016 8:39:17 GMT
Thanks for all your advise and help, a new barrel did the job.
|
|