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Post by daveh on Sept 11, 2016 19:36:37 GMT
is there more than one size for a p5b v8 distributor cap'
i got a new cap points and rotor, the points fit ok. the cap
is very loose and moves side to side a 16th or even a bit more
the roter brass contact was quite a lot longer than the one
being used in the dissy. unlike the lucas caps that has a number inside
there is no number and it came in a plain white box , so i guess it's a not
well made pattern part. unless the 5b uses different distributors, the rotor
has the number 121 made in Italy. i did give the dealer year 1972 on a L plate
the dealer said it is a late model, i will contact him tomorrow. i just wondered if
anyone has any info or part numbers etc to save this happening next time i order,
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Post by Simon H on Sept 11, 2016 20:20:01 GMT
All the same AFAIK on all 3.5s. There may be some variation in manufacturing tolerances but once they are clamped down on the dizzy they won't be moving unless something goes horribly wrong...
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Post by daveh on Sept 12, 2016 16:17:26 GMT
thanks for the info but this cap is really very loose fitting and as i said the rotor
when placed side by side of the old one is a lot longer on the brass contact strip is
quite a lot longer, but i guess that could be filed down, but if things fit this bad
i will look into a power spark distributor they offer a new dissy,coil.leads etc:
then with a bit of luck it will make thing even better.
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Post by Simon H on Sept 12, 2016 16:30:30 GMT
From what you are saying it looks like you have been supplied an incorrect rotor arm. Or maybe your car has had a different (non-P5B) distributor fitted at some time. I've got a Powerspark dizzy in mine. The cap and rotor arm are interchangeable with the original Lucas items.
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Post by daveh on Sept 12, 2016 16:49:43 GMT
everything looks standard and it runs great but i dont know
if anything has been changed with this distributor etc.
i have only had this car for a few weeks, and it did not
have very much history in the form of test certs/invoices
or garage bills etc:. the general condition is very good as
it had been used very little and locally as a wedding car
i have been looking on power spark website and see their
set up comes as a package if iv'e been looking at the correct set up.
Rover P5 P6 V8 Early Male Type Drive Gear Distributor
with Lucas Module & Coil, Link Lead & a Set of 8mm HT Leads
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Post by Simon H on Sept 13, 2016 6:58:10 GMT
The early V8 option is correct if your car has its original engine. If you buy from Powerspark I strongly suggest you buy their dizzy and coil as a package just to comply to the warranty T&Cs. The plug leads are optional.
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Post by Eric R on Sept 13, 2016 13:20:01 GMT
After two breakdowns Powerspark told me clearly that their units will only work on carbon leads. Luminition however tell me that their product will work with either! My earlier thread refers to this.
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Post by daveh on Sept 13, 2016 13:59:07 GMT
i have just ordered from power spark and
their set up has the electronic distributor,
coil ht leads etc as part of the set up. what i need now
is to find where this lucas attachment that looks to be
connected to the ignition side of the coil goes to, it appears
to go inside the steering column cowling, i need to know if what
looks like a drive cable is connected to, and if it's a electrical connection
that can be connected to the new coil.
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Post by petervdvelde on Sept 13, 2016 14:07:57 GMT
You have anti theft coil. Inside the metal pipe there is a red wire which you can connect to your new coil. The red wire Goes to the ignition key switch.. If you removethe white cap on the coil, you have acces to the red wire.
Peter
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Post by daveh on Sept 13, 2016 14:18:43 GMT
You have anti theft coil. Inside the metal pipe there is a red wire which you can connect to your new coil. The red wire Goes to the ignition key switch.. If you removethe white cap on the coil, you have acces to the red wire. Peter many thanks that makes it very clear, and easier to connect the new coil |
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Post by Simon H on Sept 13, 2016 14:50:49 GMT
IMPORTANT. You will need to use that red wire at the coil to pick up the +ve supply to the electronic dizzy and module. All other ignition switch controlled 12 volt supplies drop out when the engine is cranking (part of the design of the anti theft set up).
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Post by daveh on Sept 13, 2016 17:25:03 GMT
many thanks for the extra info, i wont be fitting the distributor myself.
i have a friend who helps me with my car problems, from your post
it will need connection from the same wire to power both the
electronic distributor and the module as well as going to the new coil.
i will pass the info on to him just in case he doesn't know about it.
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Post by Simon H on Sept 14, 2016 6:46:16 GMT
Thinking about what you posted earlier. It might be worth checking the supply to the Tecalmet switch when the engine is cranking. If it isn't linked to that red 'ignition switch to coil' wire the chances are that it switches off when cranking and hence the long wait for fuel to get through...
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Post by daveh on Sept 14, 2016 11:24:36 GMT
Thinking about what you posted earlier. It might be worth checking the supply to the Tecalmet switch when the engine is cranking. If it isn't linked to that red 'ignition switch to coil' wire the chances are that it switches off when cranking and hence the long wait for fuel to get through... i ordered the power spark set up yesterday but i will not be changing the distributor myself to be honest i'm not very mechanically minded,and would not know where to start checking the switch, i can say that there's no waiting for fuel to get through, the car fires up first time, i ask a lot of what most will think are very basic questions,what i'm trying to do is to learn as much as i can about the car and eventually do more than the very basic jobs myself. |
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Post by daveh on Sept 23, 2016 15:57:01 GMT
after a few days doing jobs i could not leave any longer.i'm
about to fit the new powerspark electronic ignition set up
tomorrow and be for my friend arrives i took a look at the old coil
and getting access to wire from the armored cable, that was not
a problem i decided to remove the armored cable in the engine bay
and leave the wire in the armored cable up to where the armored cable
is bracketed on the engine as easier than removing it from the steering
column cowling and under the dash panel i removed both armored cables
at this bracket and re-directed and extended the wire to the coil,
i then took a look at the distributor as the car had started to run a ruff
this is when i noticed the leads were not in the correct order on the cap
this is where i need help before fitting the new distributor etc:
i think i'm correct in saying the rotor turns clockwise and the firing order is
1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2 , can i ask is this just a distributor fitted wrongly and fitted without
being certain that no:-1 piston was not on top dead centre before fitting the distributor
the runs but the leads are in this order 1-2-7-3-4-5-6-8. i can remember years ago we had
a 4 cylinder ford that needed a new oil pump and the pump was fitted 180 out and the car
had to be soft timed to save re-fitting the oil pump, could this be the same on the p5b?
or will fitting the new distributor correctly sort the problem out.
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Post by harvey on Sept 23, 2016 16:03:47 GMT
the leads are in this order 1-2-7-3-4-5-6-8. I can't think of any engine that would ever have 3-4-5-6 in the firing order. |
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Post by daveh on Sept 23, 2016 17:04:36 GMT
i agree very strange i have tried putting the leads
in the correct firing order and the car will not start i just
turns over and back fires etc: but it does run in with leads as i got
the car, i wanted to find out if it's a dissy change thats
been done without setting the engine correctly first and
will it work in the correct order when i get the new dissy fitted
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Post by harvey on Sept 23, 2016 17:34:12 GMT
Set cylinder 1 to TDC on the firing stroke, see which segment on the cap the rotor arm is pointing at, then start there with a lead to no1 plug, and follow through the firing order around the cap going clockwise.
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Post by daveh on Sept 26, 2016 11:24:47 GMT
before i go any further i urgently need help from you all so i can get it correct
i have fitted the distributor/coil etc and Set cylinder 1 to T.D.C on the firing stroke
and the engine will not run when the plug leads are in the correct firing order.
i did see there is a key way at the base of distributor drive shaft, could this be fitted
a 180 out and causing the non starting, it does run as before when the firing order
is set 1-2-7-4-3-5-6-8 , this is how the settings were when i got this car
so i guess this says the electronic dissy and coil etc: are working and the fault is in
the set up. thanks in advance for help given
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Post by harvey on Sept 26, 2016 13:40:28 GMT
i have fitted the distributor/coil etc and Set cylinder 1 to T.D.C on the firing stroke and the engine will not run when the plug leads are in the correct firing order. That can't be the case if you're starting at cylinder one and then working through the firing order going clockwise around the distributor cap. i did see there is a key way at the base of distributor drive shaft, could this be fitted a 180 out and causing the non starting, No, that is just the oil pump drive. it does run as before when the firing order is set 1-2-7-4-3-5-6-8 , this is how the settings were when i got this car so i guess this says the electronic dissy and coil etc: are working and the fault is in the set up. thanks in advance for help given I can only guess because I can't see anything, but here is my theory on how you've got to that firing order. You are starting with cylinder 2 instead of cylinder one. The RH and LH cylinder banks are as seen from the driver's seat looking forwards, not as seen looking from the front of the car, and even then you have errors in the order. The combination of both will stop it starting. |
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Post by daveh on Sept 26, 2016 13:49:15 GMT
many thanks i think you could have found my mistake
i am using cylinder 1 on the left hand head looking from the front of the car
is no1 cylinder front of the right hand head from the radiator .
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Post by harvey on Sept 26, 2016 13:55:35 GMT
many thanks i think you could have found my mistake I reckon you could be right. Just think how quick it could have been sorted if I was actually looking at it. it's nowhere near as easy trying to piece it all together on here. i am using cylinder 1 on the left hand head looking from the front of the car That's cylinder 2, the front one on the right hand bank. is no1 cylinder front of the right hand head from the radiator . Yes, the front cylinder on the left hand bank. Sounds like you could do with buying one of my datasheets...... |
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Post by daveh on Sept 26, 2016 14:08:45 GMT
many thanks i will reset the correct cylinder on t d c and get the leads
in the correct firing order.
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Post by daveh on Sept 26, 2016 19:05:19 GMT
with your help and info, i now have the car running with
the leads in the correct firing order. it wont tick over at the moment
to allow time to move the dissy to the correct position and get it
running smooth. my mate will bring his strobe light in the morning to set it for me .
one problem i see is the module on the side of the dissy is very near to touching
the engine so it may need resetting to get more movement if the dissy needs a
anti clockwise move
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Post by Warwick on Sept 27, 2016 3:01:00 GMT
This is for the EFI 3.5L Range Rover engine, but it may be a useful reference next time. Attachment Deleted |
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