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Post by enigmas on Feb 16, 2017 10:10:14 GMT
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Post by enigmas on Feb 17, 2017 10:46:40 GMT
Here are a few more pictures of the wheels fitted to the car. The tyres fitted to these rear wheels (tubeless) are 225 x 60 x 15.   NB. It doesn't have to be expensive. The modified wheels (original factory centres) fitted to new chromed hoops cost $220 AUD per wheel. The tyres (virtually new) were purchased from a large car wreckers/recycler for $36 AUD ea. It doesn't get any better than that! |
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Post by petervdvelde on Feb 17, 2017 14:08:59 GMT
Looks nice Vin. Are the centers welded to the rims now? And are the wheels re chromed?
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Post by enigmas on Feb 18, 2017 1:05:11 GMT
Hi Peter, yes the centres are welded to the rims (this can be seen in the first group of photos above). The 7" rims are new and chromed. They are from the US and polished and chromed for a smooth bright finish on the outside facing surfaces. The inside, rear facing part of the rim is not prepared to the same standard...as this non visible side saves costs for the manufacturer. The OEM centre piece hubs are not rechromed as it didn't warrant the cost in my view and will be cleaned and buffed. There's no salt on OZ roads.
The centre wheel sections have been machined down in diameter slightly to accommodate the new rims. (The Rover 5" rims are peculiar to P5Bs it seems) I'll paint the rear section of the wheels black as they're unseen from the front. I'm very pleased with the quality of the work and the turn around time...approx 1 week.
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Post by Warwick on Feb 18, 2017 11:29:51 GMT
Nice Vince. It would open up a wider (no pun intended) choice of tyre too. The options for the standard rim size are decreasing.
What did they cost?
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Post by enigmas on Feb 18, 2017 13:29:08 GMT
Hi Warwick...I think you and Peter are just looking at the pictures? All the tech info and associated costs are up 2 posts.
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Post by Warwick on Feb 18, 2017 21:33:39 GMT
Oops! I think I read it when you first posted that one, but must have forgotten.
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Post by enigmas on Feb 19, 2017 1:53:07 GMT
 ...I do a bit of speed reading on occasion too Warwick!
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Post by Colin McA on Feb 19, 2017 15:47:20 GMT
Nice work, could be the way forward for old Rostyles.
look great n the rear.
Colin
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Post by enigmas on Feb 24, 2017 0:36:00 GMT
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Post by petervdvelde on Feb 24, 2017 7:33:33 GMT
looking good!. It seems the welding didn't affect the ch chromed area's
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Post by enigmas on Feb 24, 2017 8:25:53 GMT
looking good!. It seems the welding didn't affect the ch chromed area's There's nothing discernable to me Peter and even if there was, it's to the rear unseen portion of the wheel.  |
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Post by craigydee70 on Feb 24, 2017 9:56:53 GMT
I must say that your wheel looks great ! May I ask what upyou used to get it looking so good and what paint that you used?
Very soon my p5B will be ready to see the light of day for the first time since 1992 and I would like her to look her best before her first shake down run 😊
Craig.
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Post by enigmas on Feb 24, 2017 13:21:35 GMT
Craig, I presume you've read the complete thread to understand how these wheels were assembled? Part of the rationale behind this topic is to illustrate that the Rostyle wheels can be restored or altered at reasonable cost. There's nothing particular special about my methods or the paint used. The original factory chroming process to the wheels was very good and durable. Both the centre sections I used were discarded parts (virtual throw aways..by others).
I cleaned the rear and the black painted centre sections of the rostyles with a brass rotary wire brush using an electric drill. I then applied rust convertor to the rear of the centre section and left them overnight. The following day I cleaned them with lacquer thinners, masked the appropriate areas and sprayed them with primer filler. When this was dry I painted the front with gloss black acrylic lacquer and the rear centre piece of the wheel with a zinc rich silver paint.
The work involved is primarily physical elbow grease and some careful use with masking tape. I use a hair dryer to speed the evaporation of solvents within the paint. Once everything is cleaned and masked, the painting from start to finish (both sides) takes approximately one half to 3/4 of an hour. I remove the masking tape 20 - 30 mins later. The following day I hand buff the chrome sections using 'Autosol' chrome polish. (Vince)
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Post by Roy of the Rovers on Mar 14, 2017 16:58:12 GMT
Hi Vince, can you provide a link to the rims in the states that you purchased?
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Post by enigmas on Mar 14, 2017 18:49:59 GMT
Roy the business that did the wheels (Neway Wheels in West Heidelberg, Victoria) imports them from the USA. I only know this because the owner/technician made reference to his source of rims,but he didn't specify where. I imagine he buys in bulk, hence the very good price.
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Post by colnerov on Mar 17, 2017 19:36:19 GMT
Hi, In the 'American hotrod' TV series about Boyd Coddington's projects it shows his company designing and machining alloy wheel centres and fitting them into chromed wheel rims which I understand is fairly common practice over there. The steel rims are heated by burners and the, probably cold, centres dropped in. It is not explained in detail but shows it going on in the background. So I would think the rims are readily available over there. One thing to watch is the diameter of the two mating faces, I did start investigating separating and putting wider rims from modern wheels onto older centres but modern rims have shallower wells and this complicates matters as far as the matching of the two.
Colin
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Post by enigmas on Mar 17, 2017 19:57:44 GMT
Colin if you read the threads fully on this topic, you'll see that the new chrome rims have a deeper well and that the OEM centre hubs were turned down slighty so that they would fit. The hubs were then welded into place, not riveted.
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Post by colnerov on Mar 17, 2017 20:12:16 GMT
Colin if you read the threads fully on this topic, you'll see that the new chrome rims have a deeper well and that the OEM centre hubs were turned down slighty so that they would fit. The hubs were then welded into place, not riveted. Hi, Yes I did read the thread and saw the welds before reading about them. I only made the comment about mating face dimensions in case anyone else blindly went and obtained rims without knowing to consider this. Shallower wells are as said common on modern rims over here and there's a considerable variation on the same size between makers but there may not be on rims from the US or your part of the world. Just trying to contribute to the thread. Colin |
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Post by Roy of the Rovers on Mar 21, 2017 13:20:30 GMT
Hi Vince,
I tried to look up 'wheel rims' on the 'ole interweb, but as you can imagine I only came up with complete wheels. Is there a search term the Americans or Australians use that refers only to the rims? I just wanted to see what availability and options might be like for ordering to the UK...
There is a company local to me that does banding on wheels but they don't supply rims. But their machines could weld rims together in the way yours has been. Yours look really nice.
Thanks
Roy
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Post by enigmas on Mar 21, 2017 21:27:15 GMT
Roy why not phone or email Neway wheels in Oz and speak to the owner/technician (it's a small company with a big family history). I'm sure there's nothing secretive about their source. Just add your international prefix to the phone contact in the link or try their Facebook Contact m.facebook.com/NewayWheelRepairsAddress: 11 Beatrice Ave, Heidelberg West. VIC. 3081 Hours: Opens 8AM Tue Phone: (03) 9457 3141 Tire Dealer & Repair Shop in Heidelberg West, Victoria. Australia. Automotive (steel, alloy and wire wheel), rim repair, Aircraft & Boat Repair Shop. |
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...I do a bit of speed reading on occasion too Warwick!
