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Post by Jens Munk on Jun 21, 2017 6:13:19 GMT
I have just started to assemble my Rover V8 engine, and I wonder how tight the crankshaft rear rope seal is supposed to be. I have followed the instructions but the crank is pretty hard to turn. I.e. I can't turn it by hand but a spanner on the pulley bolt will do it. Is this too tight? Any particular tricks for the rope seal installation and fit?
Thanks,
Jens.
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Post by enigmas on Jun 21, 2017 7:46:40 GMT
Did you turn the fully assembled crankshaft before fitting the rope seal to ensure that nothing was binding. (The bearing caps have to be properly torqued when this is done, obviously with the bearings in place and oiled). If it spins freely, you then know it's OK to fit the rope seal. Any drag by the rope seal if 'correctly fitted' is not an issue, as it will conform to the journal once the engine is fired up. What you don't want is the rope seal standing/holding off the rear main bearing cap if it is not correctly fitted.
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Post by Jens Munk on Jun 21, 2017 9:25:34 GMT
No I didn't but it sounds like a healthy idea. However, it sounds difficult to subsequently install the rope seal with pistons and everything assembled without taking it all apart again. Is this what you suggest or just the crankshaft? I just have the crankshaft in now. Did you turn the fully assembled crankshaft before fitting the rope seal to ensure that nothing was binding. (The bearing caps have to be properly torqued when this is done, obviously with the bearings in place and oiled. If it spins freely, you then know it's OK to fit the rope seal. Any drag by the rope seal if 'correctly fitted' is not an issue, as it will conform to the journal once the engine is fired up. What you don't want is the rope seal standing/holding off the rear main bearing cap if it is not correctly fitted. |
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Post by enigmas on Jun 21, 2017 10:54:33 GMT
That's right...no rope seal, no rods and pistons...just the crankshaft main bearing caps in place. Torque it and turn it. You should always do this no matter what type of rear seal to check for free rotation. If the conrods and pistons are in place undo the big end caps and push the rods and pistons right up the bores. Then do the seal. The last video is an engine building shop a short distance from where I live. These guys have an excellent reputation in the industry. You might find these youtube vids of use. m.youtube.com/watch?v=1qXo9pW6nEom.youtube.com/watch?v=GqEHpxpZoQEm.youtube.com/watch?v=kSQWlnvAIbI |
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Post by lagain on Jun 21, 2017 21:09:59 GMT
The rope seal does not work - sorry ! It is one of those things that worked when the engine was assembled in the factory but never since. If the engine is apart a machine shop should be able to fit the later SD1 seal If the engine is not apart and you have to use the rope seal, good luck ! The problem is cutting the ends so that the seal is a tight fit. I think that I tried doing it about 3 times with a kit that came from the Isle of Wight, which I suppose should have been a warning  (apologies to the chairman and others who like the IOW) It was on the Isle of Wight that I developed a life long aversion to gambling, probably about 1968 and I had 4 old pence as holiday money. I lost all 4 in a diddler machine and have never gambled since. |
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Post by Simon H on Jun 24, 2017 15:09:58 GMT
I successfully fitted a rope oil seal to an engine I rebuilt many years ago. Unfortunately the WSM I was using (P6 iirc) had some confusing instructions. If a new rope oil seal had been fitted the engine rpm must not exceed 600rpm when first started. If a new cam shaft and followers had been fitted engine rpm must not fall below 1500rpm for the first 20 minutes on first starting. I'm working from memory here so these may not be the exact figures but you get the idea.
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(apologies to the chairman and others who like the IOW)
