rover3l123
Rover Fanatic
Originally from Llangollen area North Wales and relocated to the US in 1995 with the P5
Posts: 174
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Post by rover3l123 on Oct 7, 2020 20:27:58 GMT
Does anyone know of a source of repair videos for our P5's?. I am searching in particular for something on overhauling the rear brakes. I have found videos for the front brakes but not the rears.
My rears are currently seized due to standing for a long time, a leaking cylinder and the handbrake slider in the drum is seized also. I have ordered new cylinders and shoes and plan to do an overhaul, but it would be great to learn of any tips, tricks and pitfalls from those more experienced.
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Post by lagain on Oct 8, 2020 15:48:23 GMT
I find that the most difficult thing with the rear brakes is bleeding them afterwards to get all the air out, it lurks somewhere and rather than waste fluid it is best to leave it for a few days, possibly give it a run and then bleed again. The last time I replaced the seals, last winter, I had to have 3 or 4 goes at it. Do not know of any videos, always rely on the workshop manual.
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Post by Phil Nottingham on Oct 8, 2020 17:30:40 GMT
Does anyone know of a source of repair videos for our P5's?. I am searching in particular for something on overhauling the rear brakes. I have found videos for the front brakes but not the rears. My rears are currently seized due to standing for a long time, a leaking cylinder and the handbrake slider in the drum is seized also. I have ordered new cylinders and shoes and plan to do an overhaul, but it would be great to learn of any tips, tricks and pitfalls from those more experienced. Quite a lot info on SEARCH re the rear brakes - the key is that the cylinders must float on the backplate ie slide up and down without tipping and NOT bolted hard up. Everything else is standard brake work outlined also in the WSM. Make sure you note how and where the shoe springs go and how the shoes are oriented to the adjuster. Take photos
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Post by Ken Nelson on Oct 9, 2020 23:35:38 GMT
Hello David, greetings from Grand Rapids, Michigan. We met briefly at an MG meet at Lake Delavan in Wisconsin several years ago. I hope all is well with you and your wife. I have just finished a Volvo power steering box conversion on my car and am working on re-aligning the front end after. Ken
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rover3l123
Rover Fanatic
Originally from Llangollen area North Wales and relocated to the US in 1995 with the P5
Posts: 174
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Post by rover3l123 on Oct 16, 2020 14:00:11 GMT
Hi Ken good to hear from you and great to hear you still have the P5. We are both fine here but going a little stir crazy as I am sure everyone else is with the Covid situation. No doubt you have read that Wisconsin is having a tough time at the present.
So how do you like the steering box change? Does it change the feel of the steering?
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rover3l123
Rover Fanatic
Originally from Llangollen area North Wales and relocated to the US in 1995 with the P5
Posts: 174
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Post by rover3l123 on Oct 16, 2020 14:10:11 GMT
Does anyone know of a source of repair videos for our P5's?. I am searching in particular for something on overhauling the rear brakes. I have found videos for the front brakes but not the rears. My rears are currently seized due to standing for a long time, a leaking cylinder and the handbrake slider in the drum is seized also. I have ordered new cylinders and shoes and plan to do an overhaul, but it would be great to learn of any tips, tricks and pitfalls from those more experienced. Quite a lot info on SEARCH re the rear brakes - the key is that the cylinders must float on the backplate ie slide up and down without tipping and NOT bolted hard up. Everything else is standard brake work outlined also in the WSM. Make sure you note how and where the shoe springs go and how the shoes are oriented to the adjuster. Take photos Thank you for the advice. I do have some further questions and please excuse my ignorance of these matters. When replacing the master cylinder, is it acceptable to re-use the Thackery washers and can you confirm that the procedure is to tighten the bolts solid and then back off a full 360 degrees? Should I used brake grease between the back plate and the wheel cylinder and how important is the condition of the surface of the back plate. In the Work Shop manual on page 10 of section N, there are two springs shown as items 17 and 24. Should these be replaced with new ones or do people generally use the old ones For the handbrake mechanism which needs to be disturbed to replace the wheel cylinder, is it acceptable to re-use the rollers and tappets and is there anything to look for in terms of wear of these components or the draw link. Should the draw link and tappets be sanded smooth? After replacing the shoes and the cylinders on both sides, is it necessary to adjust the handbrake linkage or should I leave well alone.
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Post by Phil Nottingham on Oct 16, 2020 15:35:41 GMT
You mean the Wheel cylinders? The nut should be be backed off only sufficient to allow them to slide - use anti-seize grease. A full turn will be too much and you can reuse the washers is fit to do so ie not flat and still have spring in them.
All parts can be reused except rubbers if in fit condition - if in doubt replace. Do not adjust the handbrake linkage unless someone has messed it up. The small pull-off springs for the tappets can be dispensed with as only fitted to early cars. The rollers and tappets are hardened and generally do not wear much if well greased
Please post specific queries in future to the respective section for the 3 litres as it makes future searches simpler and answers faster
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rover3l123
Rover Fanatic
Originally from Llangollen area North Wales and relocated to the US in 1995 with the P5
Posts: 174
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Post by rover3l123 on Oct 17, 2020 2:27:02 GMT
Phil thank you for the extra clarifications and yes I did mean wheel cylinder I am not sure what I did wrong with the posting as I thought I had posted this in the P5 mechanical section. Did it not show up there or is there some where else I should post questions about the brake system?
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Post by Phil Nottingham on Oct 17, 2020 5:08:54 GMT
Sorry to have confused you - I was trying to help your query move along better
When a new topic or question is opened it really needs to be the relevant section with a very specific title.
Your question appeared to be a general one entitled "Repair Videos" but was actually about brakes and went on later to several ones about the rear brakes. "Rear Brakes overhaul (or videos)" is better
Long threads containing several different questions on different topics will often be left unanswered partly or fully or become repetitive and rambling and then often ignored (this is a big issue with Facebook Groups) Some forum members have good knowledge and experience of very specific areas and shy away from others
Where a thread is started about a restoration project it is a good idea to keep it as just the one but even with then it is useful to divide it into say bodywork, mechanicals, electrical etc. Any specific question arising needs its own new post in the relevant section.
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rover3l123
Rover Fanatic
Originally from Llangollen area North Wales and relocated to the US in 1995 with the P5
Posts: 174
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Post by rover3l123 on Oct 17, 2020 12:54:22 GMT
Sorry to have confused you - I was trying to help your query move along better When a new topic or question is opened it really needs to be the relevant section with a very specific title. Your question appeared to be a general one entitled "Repair Videos" but was actually about brakes and went on later to several ones about the rear brakes. "Rear Brakes overhaul (or videos)" is better Long threads containing several different questions on different topics will often be left unanswered partly or fully or become repetitive and rambling and then often ignored (this is a big issue with Facebook Groups) Some forum members have good knowledge and experience of very specific areas and shy away from others Where a thread is started about a restoration project it is a good idea to keep it as just the one but even with then it is useful to divide it into say bodywork, mechanicals, electrical etc. Any specific question arising needs its own new post in the relevant section. Ok got it - Your explanation makes perfect sense and for folks like me with limited experience / mechanical knowledge, I really appreciate the time and input of the highly knowledgeable members.
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Post by Phil Nottingham on Oct 17, 2020 13:24:58 GMT
That is what this forum is for but I also recommend you join the club if you have not already.
Note the Workshop Manual is for time served professional mechanics from 50 years ago. It assumes a lot of basic workshop practice and essential steps may be missing as they apply to all vehicles. The manual also has some errors in narrative and drawings.
Do not hold back in asking a question - it will have been asked before
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rover3l123
Rover Fanatic
Originally from Llangollen area North Wales and relocated to the US in 1995 with the P5
Posts: 174
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Post by rover3l123 on Oct 17, 2020 14:53:25 GMT
That is what this forum is for but I also recommend you join the club if you have not already. Note the Workshop Manual is for time served professional mechanics from 50 years ago. It assumes a lot of basic workshop practice and essential steps may be missing as they apply to all vehicles. The manual also has some errors in narrative and drawings. Do not hold back in asking a question - it will have been asked before Thank you Phil I have been a P5 Owners Club member since about 1989 and living in the USA, really look forward to receiving my magazine every other month. I have recently retired and after a busy work life am starting to pay more attention to the P5. I will no doubt be posting a bit more frequently as I work through various tasks.
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Post by Phil Nottingham on Oct 17, 2020 15:39:31 GMT
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Post by Eric R on Oct 17, 2020 17:14:40 GMT
Im envious of your garage space Phil!
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Post by Phil Nottingham on Oct 17, 2020 17:29:25 GMT
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Post by harvey on Oct 17, 2020 17:54:20 GMT
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Post by Ken Nelson on Oct 17, 2020 18:27:41 GMT
Philip, what is the 3rd car in your garage? And David, yes I have kept my P5 Rover and it is an enjoyable challenge still! The Volvo power steering box has transformed the steering on the car to a much firmer and more secure feeling. Turning circle seems identical. Slightly harder to turn for parking but not at all a problem. It was somewhat difficult making the mating plate to fit proper dimensions since the holes had to line up quite correctly and it is very difficult to get down into the area with the engine in place. But all seems OK now. The exhaust pipe for a LHD 3-litre is rather tight in there as well and has to be remade. The biggest problem of all though might be to find a used Volvo 164 box from the 1970s. They seem quite rare, and Volvo 140s and old Ford pickups also seem to want them to improve their steering as well. But I suspect the LHD ones may be more plentiful than RHD.
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Post by Phil Nottingham on Oct 17, 2020 21:17:42 GMT
Philip, what is the 3rd car in your garage? And David, yes I have kept my P5 Rover and it is an enjoyable challenge still! The Volvo power steering box has transformed the steering on the car to a much firmer and more secure feeling. Turning circle seems identical. Slightly harder to turn for parking but not at all a problem. It was somewhat difficult making the mating plate to fit proper dimensions since the holes had to line up quite correctly and it is very difficult to get down into the area with the engine in place. But all seems OK now. The exhaust pipe for a LHD 3-litre is rather tight in there as well and has to be remade. The biggest problem of all though might be to find a used Volvo 164 box from the 1970s. They seem quite rare, and Volvo 140s and old Ford pickups also seem to want them to improve their steering as well. But I suspect the LHD ones may be more plentiful than RHD. Hi Ken - You should not have asked! If you mean our current 3 car garage from 2002 - its a 1961 Rover 100 P4. This is the immediate ancestor launched in 1950 to the 3 Litre P5. It was based on the Studebaker bodywork of the same period and was very modern compared to other UK cars then especially Rovers! This one is on of the last iterations and the best P4 IMHO with the 2.6L IOE 7 bearing engine with disk brakes and it was also used in the the Mk1 and Mk1a P5s but bored out to 3 litres. This one I sourced in 1994 for my late father in law who had just retired. He always bought slightly used second-hand cars and ran them into the ground and only took them into the garage for repairs if they broke down. He never washed one down. In consideration for free haircuts (he was an old fashioned barber) I used to look after them to keep them going. When he retired in 1994 I said if he wanted a newer modern car he would have have it serviced by a garage. I said if he wanted a P5 we had a spare P5B he could use and I would look after it. He could not cope with the then big size, power steering and automatic box. So I thought he could manage a P4 with nothing complicated. I would look after this for him. I sourced a tidy but not concourse one locally. This did indeed suit him very well and reflected his retired country gent image (old man's car!) and everyone assumed he had bought it new! Eventually a muscular disease meant the steering became too heavy for him and he considered giving up driving in 1999. However at that time a few owners club members in the same position had a ZF power steering conversion done by a P4 expert. (the P5 box is no good as it worked in the opposite direction) This was carried out but in 2008 at almost 80 decided to give up driving and gifted it to us. I accepted as much of my blood and toil had gone into it over the last 14 years. At that time I still thought it an old man's car and thought it would have to go. He passed way 6 months later. My own long term health problem worsened soon after and post more nasty surgery the P4 was the only car I could get into after the ops for several weeks and that was only on the rear seat. I could not even drive anything for several months so both our P5 P5B P4 and P2 had to be driven by my wife. Now we still have the P4 and I used it to commute to work most weeks and we toured Ireland in it a couple of times. Having now fully retired early this and with C19 lockdown etc its not used much and it may have to go but not yet as I have aged into its image and its an heirloom now! It goes to to supermarket every few weeks and will again go to car rallies when they one day return. My late father in law with it 15 years ago www.dropbox.com/s/0wt8xg6ya498yi4/2005-12-25%2011.58.40.jpg?dl=0
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Post by Ken Nelson on Oct 18, 2020 0:35:58 GMT
Well Phil, a very nice story, and a very nice looking car. From the back it looks almost as big as a P5, with very nice lines to it. I didn't recognize it as a P4 at first. Shortly after I obtained my P5 Coupe (along with a Saloon as parts car) and before I had it roadworthy I had a chance to buy a P4 (can't remember which iteration) with 28,000 original miles in very good running condition except for a sloppy steering box. I went back the next day to make an offer and it sold to a lady who parked it in her garage for several years and never even learned how to drive it. So it was back to fixing up the P5! Here's a picture of the parts car. The Coupe was probably in slightly worse condition.
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