First start in a while !

[Sam Bee]

Last Friday I started my car engine for the first time since 1994. Only that was not then the correct engine; that came with the car thank goodness, having been replaced by one from a P6B some time between 1990 and 1992. The original has been rebuilt as per photo - in reality all that remains is the block, with correct numbers, crankshaft, cranks, timing cover and oil pump. Sam

[lagain]

Glad it went well. When I had my engine done about 30 years ago I took it to a so called specialist near Oxford. When I re fitted it and started it water and oil came squirting out and I had to take the engine out and take it all the way back to Oxford. They had not fitted the heads properly, possibly by getting the bolts in the wrong holes and they had fitted a damaged core plug between the engine and gearbox.
Once it was back in the car again there was still an oil leak from one of the heads
Within a year a head gasket had blown and I had to get a mobile mechanic that I knew to come and fit lower compression pistons and skim the heads again.

[Sam Bee]

Interesting comments about heads George. Talking with the lads at the local Land Rover agents they use 80ft/lbs with composite gaskets, preferably with studs not bolts. I have used ARP studs , and likewise my P6B.

[Sam Bee]

I have discovered that I can only start the engine in 'P' and not 'N', the opposite from everyone else, seemingly !

[Phil Nottingham]

Dec 1, 2022 19:05:54 GMT Sam Bee said:

I have discovered that I can only start the engine in 'P' and not 'N', the opposite from everyone else, seemingly !

That is how it should be

[eightofthem (Andy)]

Incorrectly set inhibit switch.
When set correctly it SHOULD start in both "P" and "N" . That is why it is called the PARK and NEUTRAL start / REVERSE Light switch

[Sam Bee]

Thanks Andy, confirmed what I thought. It's a new inhibitor switch fitter by the firm who overhauled the gearbox. I will have to reset it.

[eightofthem (Andy)]

I know who built yours and if I were a betting man I would say it's a cheap Chinese copy.

[Sam Bee]

Andy, you could be correct!

[enigmas]

If the selector linkage adjustment is also slightly "out" Sam, you'll find the current issue occurring with a bona fide switch. So it's worth checking that again before deep-sixing the current switch.

[Phil Nottingham]

Note that later inhibitor switches (incl. cheap copies) are not adjustable but the proper ones do seal better. Adjustable ones have a locknut and these can leak as the converter drains when standing a long time. (easily sorted jus by using it the car more!). Adjustment is very fine on the adjustable versions as the threads are coarse so a test lamp is needed to get it spot on

[Sam Bee]

The saga continues! I obtained an original type inhibitor switch, said to be NOS - hmm..! Now fitted and set up with a test light and the gear lever linkage reset. The latter seemed difficult to get right as per WM procedure so put the operating lever on the gearbox fully clockwise (Park) and checked that the car could not be moved, thus proving the parking pawl. Having set the gear lever fully forward, the vertical linkage rod was adjusted and connected. Electrics reconnected and gear settings checked with the gear lever - result - out of Park the car can be moved, next notch, Reverse, the reverse light comes on, next notch light out and starter functions, in Drive it will not start, all checked again going forward. All functioning except starter won't engage in Park, and the panel warning lights go out as the key is operated to the start position, which does not happen in Neutral. Any suggestions chaps?

[enigmas]

Sounds like fun Sam! (Not) It can all be very frustrating. Try this. As you have the mechanical aspects of the gear linkage and selection correct, ie, P R N D 2 1 or however it goes with your valve body, select Park, connect only 2 wires to the switch, power in from when the ignition switch is activated (check this with a test light and by turning the key on and off), and the output wire that activates the starter solenoid. Touching these two wires directly together with the ignition on in the start position should crank the engine. Once the wires are identified, mark them.

Now that you know which wires to use (for engine cranking), turn the trans safety switch either in or out incrementally until it functions appropriately in the Park position. Mark the terminals. This is your primary "start" position. If your selected the correct terminals and wires, reverse and neutral should also function. If not try exchanging terminals until you obtain the correct result.

If neutral start fails to function due to some anomaly in the switch, does it really matter!

As for the panel lights activating...that's a separate electrical issue. Sort one issue at a time, when that's corrected, go to the next problem. Bundling them together just adds to the confusion.

Good luck.

[Phil Nottingham]

Are you sure that N position is actually neutral? Try moving the lever slightly back and forward whilst trying to start it as the intermediate linkage lengths may not be quite correct or the nylon spherical bush at the base of the floor is breaking up

 

[Sam Bee]

Thank you both.

Phil, It starts in Neutral but not in Park. I'll have another fiddle with the inhibitor switch, as suggested. The sperical bush is in good condition as I had all apart and inspected, I have a new spare if needs be.

[Phil Nottingham]

The switch adjustment (if the early adjustable version) is critical to 1/8 turn. The later type (which are more oil tight) must be screwed fully in say 1/8" turn tight

[eightofthem (Andy)]

Sam you mentioned this in one of your replies .... "The saga continues! I obtained an original type inhibitor switch, said to be NOS - hmm "

What makes you think hmmm?
N.O.S switches are reliable and more so than the " new " ones out there.
I have a particular way I set mine ( off the car though ) and they work spot on every time.

What I can suggest is that N.O.S switches have the tendency for the plunger to stick, whip it out and give the plunger a work out with a little ATF.
Red + white wires are P+N start
Green / brown are reverse

When set correctly the splayed terminals of the switch should be at the 3 and 9 o clock positions, P+ N will be at 12 + 6 o clock.

[Sam Bee]

Thanks Andy, useful stuff. The 'hmm' was my doubt about it actually being NOS. It's finding a genuine old one that is problem.

[eightofthem (Andy)]

Very true, you need to find someone who specialises in the Borg Warner

[johnwp5bcoupe]

Jan 21, 2023 19:09:24 GMT eightofthem (Andy) said:

Very true, you need to find someone who specialises in the Borg Warner

This guy is great link

[Sam Bee]

Thanks John.

[Sam Bee]

Thanks to Andy I have an original inhibitor switch fitted. After a minor tweak or two to the gear change linkage the system is now operating exactly as it should. THanks for all the advice chaps.