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Post by RichardF on Apr 8, 2007 19:57:43 GMT
I started to fit the auto box selector rods etc. back today which required stripping as they had been bent in the past for some unknown reason (maladjustment I guess). However, on checking the manual for dimensions of the rods (section EEE2-1), I find that my two horizontal rods are much longer than those quoted in the manual; each by about 2" or so. Is there later data available anywhere? I have managed to get them fitted after straightening and in fact am nearly there with the adjustment but it would be useful to have the correct dimensions if anyone has them. Richard Southampton
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Post by Phil Nottingham on Apr 8, 2007 20:53:08 GMT
No later data but I have some rods off both early and late cars so I can look them out to see if they are different. What I do know is that they have to be spot on to align with the selector stops and indicators scale never mond actually selecting the gears properly
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Post by jlalexander on Apr 9, 2007 8:19:15 GMT
The rods length given in the WS manual are wrong. There is a Technical bulletin about that. I'm sorry but I can't give you the good measurement as I am not at home (to be more precise, I am on an oil rig in the middle of the Persian Gulf) If you have access to an early P6 WS manual, you'll find the correct data in it (BW35)
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Post by p5tgc on Apr 9, 2007 11:45:50 GMT
The Service News Letter #32 (Feb 1972) confirms that the data in the Workshop Manual is wrong, as was an earlier letter (Vol 2 #30).
The corrected data is as follows: 1) Vertical rod = 197mm (7.750inches) [no change] 2) Tie Rod = 419.86mm (16.530inches) 3) Operating Rod = 543.81mm (21.410inches)
Hope this is of assistance.
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Post by harvey on Apr 9, 2007 12:14:42 GMT
Hope you enjoy trying to measure down to those last few hundredths of an inch. Just use those measurements as a starting point and adjust the linkage on the car. Make sure the sliding compensator is not seized.
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Post by RichardF on Apr 9, 2007 15:09:47 GMT
Guys,
Many thanks for the info - greatly appreciated. With the many niggling little problems encountered in this engine/gearbox change (joys of motoring?), I was beginning to think I was cursed when I measured my linkage rods up and they didn't tie up with manual.
jlalexander - In the Persian Gulf eh! I have fond (now anyway - purgatory at the time) memories of Muharraq(Barhain), Salalah, Masirah and Sharjah. Must be getting warm there now.
Thanks again all.
Richard Southampton
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Post by mcgill on Apr 20, 2010 19:00:56 GMT
thank god i found this thread ,yesterday and this morning i have been fiddling with it,i took it all off originally ,havent adjusted anything and thought it would go straight on,no is the answer to that.So grabbed the wsm,and was going to cut and shut the linkage to correct size......but found this thread...nearly had the gearshift where the ashtray was.. Is there a rule of thumb when adjusting these?like tie rod first?? etc etc. when i move the selector on the box,i get a reassuring click,when i put tunnel back and shifter,i end up with d2,d1,d,,with a certain click and the rest blurs together,getting harder to push up. before taking it off,they where all there....
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Post by cyf on Jul 7, 2010 20:51:02 GMT
Hi everyone,
My "oil seal for manual control shift" on my BW35 is leaking (part n°601009). Do you know where I can order a new one? I looked at JRW and found: "BW35 gearlever spherical bush" . Is it that part?
Thank you
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Post by Phil Nottingham on Jul 7, 2010 21:09:13 GMT
No!
The seal can leak and replacing it in-situ is awkward and may not work either
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Post by cyf on Jul 8, 2010 7:02:29 GMT
Hi Phil,
Do you mean I have to let it leak?
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Post by Phil Nottingham on Jul 8, 2010 17:38:03 GMT
Probably! It depends how bad it is - if its used more the level stays low and very much reduces seepage
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Post by cyf on Jul 9, 2010 7:01:19 GMT
It's amazing! I don't like to see fluidstain under the car. I thought it was a simple job: A leaking seal= order a new one and replace it....
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Post by Warwick on Jul 9, 2010 7:51:42 GMT
It's amazing! I don't like to see fluidstain under the car. I thought it was a simple job: A leaking seal= order a new one and replace it.... Cyf, It's a sad fact, but old British cars and bikes leak oil. It's when they stop leaking that we get worried, as it means that it has all gone.
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Post by cyf on Jul 9, 2010 8:53:46 GMT
Hi Warwick,
Yes I know, as we only have British cars at home, from '72 to '95. I don't mind oil leaks coming from the engine, PAS or manual gearbox as they all have. But the P5 is the only car we have with an autobox and it seems to me that a leak on the Auto box is more annoying, but may be I worried too much
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Post by Phil Nottingham on Jul 9, 2010 18:20:01 GMT
You are!
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Post by johnwp5bcoupe on Jul 9, 2010 18:58:59 GMT
Hi Warwick, Yes I know, as we only have British cars at home, from '72 to '95. I don't mind oil leaks coming from the engine, PAS or manual gearbox as they all have. But the P5 is the only car we have with an autobox and it seems to me that a leak on the Auto box is more annoying, but may be I worried too much I think it's called "The Constant Loss System" just keep an eye on the fluids.
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Post by cyf on Jul 10, 2010 5:58:33 GMT
Thank you for the advices Phil and John. I'll let it leaks with an eye on the level.
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Post by viking on Apr 12, 2012 16:21:51 GMT
Hi. New to the club. Repairing my v8 coupe. Selector shaft feels like a Renualt 4. Closer inspection. The Compensator block is worn. The there is movement in "shaft and lever for compensator as well. Each of the Ball Joint for tie rods have rubber olive type washers placed on each one which don't appear in the work shop manual? Can you buy the ties and compensator blocks. Looked in JRW no joy.
Hope someone can suggest where i can get new ones.
Many thanks Viking
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Post by harvey on Apr 12, 2012 16:30:47 GMT
Thick rubbers on the ball joints are standard fitment. The block in the compensator can wear, as I suppose the bellcrank could wear away the hole in the block too. I'd say it was pretty rare though.
I think you should remove it as one unit and see what bits are worn, but I doubt the compensators are available new, but it would be nice if I was wrong on that. I have good used for most of that.
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Post by Phil Nottingham on Apr 12, 2012 17:42:06 GMT
Block is unlikley to be available new but phone/email Wadhams or Andrew Bailey or Barry Kent. Otherwise s/h from David Green - the rubbers can be made or improvised from foam etc but are not really essential
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Post by davidg on Apr 12, 2012 18:12:36 GMT
Viking,
I have a second hand one green.david10@sky.com
David Green
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Post by viking on Apr 12, 2012 19:59:00 GMT
Thanks everyone. What a great club to be a member of. Spoke to Glyn Davies. Said the rubbers may be used to put tension on tie bolts. Rubbers aren't in my manual. Confused.com
Will remove and have a look.
Viking
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Post by knapp19491956 on Nov 8, 2013 11:50:56 GMT
Hi Warwick, Yes I know, as we only have British cars at home, from '72 to '95. I don't mind oil leaks coming from the engine, PAS or manual gearbox as they all have. But the P5 is the only car we have with an autobox and it seems to me that a leak on the Auto box is more annoying, but may be I worried too much I think it's called "The Constant Loss System" just keep an eye on the fluids.
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Post by knapp19491956 on Nov 8, 2013 12:15:42 GMT
Hi Warwick...New boy here, I am having the same problem but with smoke when engine starting get worm, this from the fluid dripping on to the exhaust pipe then when hot it`s smelly so we have to ride with the windows closed are we talking the same problem. stu
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Post by Warwick on Nov 11, 2013 2:10:31 GMT
Hi Stu, Have you had a look to see which part of the exhaust system it's landing on, and where it's dripping from? It might be a matter of waiting until it occurs and then turn the engine off and let it cool. With luck the oil will still drip after the pipe has cooled enough not to vaporise it, and you can see the location.
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