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Post by Deleted on May 22, 2007 22:14:44 GMT
Has any one fitted a high volume oil pump kit i have just fitted one the gears seem to be to high with the spacer on and the oil light stays on at low revs. I have got all the engine back together it will not tick over only with the choke out and it seems to be missing when you rev it i can not find what it could be the timing is set up ok I have aii new plugs and plug leads any one have any idear what it can be
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Post by p5tgc on May 23, 2007 10:26:15 GMT
Don't like the sound of that bit about the gears, as I recall they should both be the same thickness and sit flush.
Your lack of idle could be an air leak on the induction side somewhere.
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Post by Phil Nottingham on May 23, 2007 15:55:33 GMT
They surely must be flush - the whole principle of the pump works on very fine tolerances.
Apart from the air leak are all plugs firing and in the right order? Has the dwell been accuratley set as with an 8 clinder only slight variances make a big difference - so could a worn dizzy/sticking advance mechanism
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Post by harvey on May 23, 2007 16:52:29 GMT
If you've just fitted new plugs and leads that would be where I would start looking, then if the plug gaps, leads and firing order are OK, I would check through all the normal items, starting with the dwell, although you say you've done the timing, and you can't set that without doing the dwell first.
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Post by Deleted on May 23, 2007 17:36:51 GMT
I think that you should take off the cover and see if it is scored. It could well be that it is pushing up the dizzy causing more problems. Dont run it till it is sorted. The gears should be dead level with the gasket giving the clearance. You can always return to the original system. Why change anyway?
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Post by Smallfry on May 23, 2007 22:20:34 GMT
I take it you have got both gaskets fitted ? If you leave one out, the gears will be high, and would bind up ?
Should be pump housing (front cover) gasket, spacer, gasket, pump cover.
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Post by Deleted on May 23, 2007 22:38:16 GMT
Thanks for all your help but how do you set the dwell Thiinking about it when the trouble started with the engine before i sripped it It started to tap loud and the engine was missing as well Now the tapping has gone but still missing I have changed the cam/tappets/pushrods/timing chain/sprockets/heads/and all new gaskets
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Post by Phil Nottingham on May 24, 2007 17:12:37 GMT
Use a good Dwell meter - feeler gauges are just no good with these dizzies
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Post by Smallfry on May 24, 2007 19:54:18 GMT
Yep, I would agree with that, but then, I would add an electronic ignition kit anyway !
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Post by Deleted on May 24, 2007 22:08:59 GMT
I have got electronic ignition fitted will make any diffance where can i get a dwell meter from
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Post by Keith - Portsmouth on May 24, 2007 22:16:55 GMT
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Post by Phil Nottingham on May 24, 2007 22:50:56 GMT
I have had two of these and they do not seem to last well! The analogue type is more durable but more difficult to use.
Try Ebay?
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Post by Deleted on May 27, 2007 23:26:45 GMT
I am haveing trouble with the oil pump i have packet with petrolem jelly put it back togerther and the oil light will not go out i have tested the oil switch and that is ok And all so do you have to set the dwell if you have got electronic ignition i have tried it and it is 31deg and will not change with adjustment
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Post by Kev on May 28, 2007 7:41:24 GMT
Not sure about your Oil pump? ? Have you got the correct spring in it,oil way blocked? Anyway,Dwell. Mine too was set with no adjustment possible on the dwell.I think the electronics do all the work needed. Big Kev.
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Post by Phil Nottingham on May 28, 2007 8:01:44 GMT
The pump has to be completely packed with the jelly.
Electronic set-ups usually have no dwelll adjustment only really expensive ones have this and its not really required.
The fact that this is at 31 deg proves why electronic gives a better spark as 28 deg is the max running dwell with points - any higher would mean the gap would be too small for proper operation and misfiring would occur
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Post by RichardF on May 28, 2007 18:15:31 GMT
The oil pump on my spare engine just would not prime, even after fully packing it with petroleum jelly. I resorted to removing the distributor and primed the oil pump with the use of an electric drill and a home made adaptor. Even that took some a couple of goes to succeed but, in the end it did prime. To make the check easier I jury rigged the oil light circuit with a bulb and two wires; one wire to the oil pressure switch and the other to battery feed off the fuse box, so no need for ignition. Funnily, once the oil pump primed, it worked perfectly after, even after not running for a week or two.
Richard Southampton
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Post by DanielSheard on May 29, 2007 15:23:11 GMT
I'm convinced it is easier to use a drill to prime the pump than the vaseline method. I took a piece of threaded studding and filed the end so that it would fit the slot. You can feel the drill slow when the pump is primed.
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Post by johnwp5bcoupe on May 29, 2007 16:20:03 GMT
I used the Drill method worked first time it saves a lot of messing about
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Post by Phil Nottingham on May 29, 2007 16:53:54 GMT
I think I will try this next time - it must be safer than trying to start it and then finding its not primed!
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Post by Deleted on May 31, 2007 21:25:02 GMT
Hi every one i have taken the new standard oil pump gears out could not get oil light to go out put back high volume pump gears oil light goes out at about 2000 revs but stays on when on tick over i have noticed that the oil pump gears top cover is badley scord would that have any thing to do with the oil light staying on
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Post by Phil Nottingham on May 31, 2007 22:22:58 GMT
Yes - it should be completely flat - the problem is what has happened to the material that scored it and where was it from?
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Post by Deleted on Jun 1, 2007 21:32:15 GMT
HI i tried it with the drill and adaptor the oil light went out so put it all together and started the engine and the oil light comes on on tick over
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Post by johnwp5bcoupe on Jun 2, 2007 6:15:42 GMT
On your rebuild did you remove the sump Vince? just wondered if you have a problem with a part blocked Oil Pickup I am a bit concerned about the scoring Perhaps it's a good idea to source another known good pump I know David Green has a couple of good runners
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Post by Deleted on Jun 3, 2007 22:43:21 GMT
hi yes i took of the sump cleaned it out and cleaned the oil pickup as well All so on start up the liffters are noisy till the oil light goes out after a run stop the engine wait 10 mins start up liffters noisy for about 30 seconds oil light still staying on till about 2000 revs then goes of then comes back on when revs drop
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Post by RichardF on Jun 4, 2007 13:56:07 GMT
Vince,
On my old engine I had a similar noise top end. It turned out that although the camshaft and followers were in excellent condition, the rockers and the shafts were extremely worn and took time to quiet down after each start-up. Changing these cured the problem. Trouble is you can only really see after dismantling one or two rocker arms. Richard Southampton
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