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Post by Deleted on Oct 6, 2007 15:25:47 GMT
correct me if i'm wrong, the autobox changes up very quickly through the gears and is usually in top before you know it.
as such, she runs fine.
however, she won't kickdown.
under the accelerator pedal are two 'fixings'. one adjusts how far the pedal will travel (like a stopper), correct? the other looks at present like the end of an empty tube (??). should this not have some sort of button on/in it, that actuates the 'kickdown' when the pedal is fully depressed?
what the devil's happened to it?
thank you once again folks!
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Post by johnwp5bcoupe on Oct 6, 2007 15:49:13 GMT
Your barking up the wrong tree in some respects you should have a spring loaded pedal stop when the butterflies are at the fully open position the pedal should be just touching the top of the pedal stop the kick down is activated by the accelerator cable in combination with the kick down cable best get a manual and have a read could be lots of reasons why the kick down is not working If you need another pedal stop try David Green david@greenp5.fsnet.co.uk.
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Post by Phil Nottingham on Oct 6, 2007 17:14:43 GMT
They should change up to top very quickly but if you are not getting kickdown it is probable that teh cable needs adjtsing or the nylon bush at the end of the cylinder head has worn away unless its a very early model with the carb bracket.
The plunger has lost its end!
Get a w/s manual from the club before messing about with things
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Post by Deleted on Oct 6, 2007 17:41:18 GMT
I thought that the stop bracket was irellevant to the V8 and was a relic from the 3 Litre.
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Post by johnwp5bcoupe on Oct 6, 2007 17:45:05 GMT
As far as I know they are fitted as standard could be wrong but I know at least 3 that have them fitted
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Post by Phil Nottingham on Oct 6, 2007 19:52:14 GMT
Quite correct John - Definitily they have the stop, in fact some 3 Litres with the DG auoto-box did not have this - it was actually a relic from overdrive P4/P5 cars that was used with the BW 35 boxes as you described
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Post by Warwick (Ozcoupe) on Oct 7, 2007 4:33:49 GMT
Very interesting.
This is another of those things that has puzzled me too, but I decided not to think or ask about it since I wasn't ready to do anything about it. Getting the car back on the road being the first priority.
Mine looks like lachleaves has described too. A thing that looks like a small rubber stop and a hollow nipple sort of thing. No spring. And the kickdown doesn't work.
I'll worry about it later but keep an eye on this thread.
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Post by Warwick (Ozcoupe) on Oct 9, 2007 0:56:56 GMT
Is this what yours looks like Lachleaves? I was obviously mistaken about the rubber end on the bolt-head. Just shows how little I know this car yet. Any comments Phil and John W? I don't suppose you have any good photos of what it should look like John? Warwick.
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Post by johnwp5bcoupe on Oct 9, 2007 6:11:33 GMT
I will take one today Warwick
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Post by johnwp5bcoupe on Oct 9, 2007 7:56:44 GMT
There you go Warwick
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Post by Warwick (Ozcoupe) on Oct 9, 2007 8:09:02 GMT
Ah ha! It all becomes clear! Thanks John.
So the thing sticking out of the hollow nipple is a spring-loaded plunger which gives resistance past which you must push to get kick-down.
The adjustable bolt is the pedal stop that presumably is set at a point that stops the plunger bottoming out.
Have I got all that right? I'll have a close look at the pedal next weekend. I took the photo in the dark last night. Not sure if it's a trick of the light, but the pedal looks bent as if it's been pushed very hard and bent around the stop.
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Post by johnwp5bcoupe on Oct 9, 2007 9:14:18 GMT
Yes you got the function right Warwick and yes your pedal looks a liitle too bent they do have a slight bend
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Post by Phil Nottingham on Oct 9, 2007 16:26:19 GMT
Nice pictures John!
The pedal is bent!
I had problems once with it jamming on on kick-down, it turned out that careless jacking by a PO had pushed up the drivers floor pan. A good whack with a lump hammer in the middle soon sorted it!
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Post by Warwick (Ozcoupe) on Oct 10, 2007 0:21:29 GMT
Thanks John and Phil. (I'll get the lump hammer onto the pedal - Might remove it first perhaps!)
So much to learn - so much to do. Spring is here, the sun is shining, the grass needs mowing, the car is still stuck in the shed and I'm still stuck in the office gazing out the window and getting fidgetty to go for a long drive.
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Post by dorsetflyer on Oct 12, 2007 18:59:30 GMT
Some people don't realise how lucky they are.
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Post by johnwp5bcoupe on Oct 12, 2007 20:24:47 GMT
I know what you mean John rain frost rain fog
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Post by Warwick (Ozcoupe) on Oct 12, 2007 23:59:15 GMT
Gee thanks you two. (JW and J of W). Nice work.
I don't know how you managed it, but it's gone cold again. It hailed last night as I was about to go home; it's been freezing cold and rainy since; and it snowed in the nearby mountains last night!
Thanks a lot.
Now, could I ask another Kickdown question please? I don't know if any other novices get confused by the long cable and the short cable; not to mention the various changes made to the BW35. I've read James Taylor and I've done the 600 days searches, but I'm still slightly confused.
My car was built in March 1970, according to BMIHT. The kickdown cable terminates at the rear of the block on the passenger side, pointing directly upwards. It is operated by a lever on a long shaft that extends horizontally rearwards from beneath the LH SU. I presume that this is the short cable.
The gear selector has markings the same as just about every other automatic car I know. 1 2 D N R P
Is all that as it should be?
And one last question. (Until next time)
Can anyone tell me please on which page of the reproduced original parts manual (Brookland Books & P5 Club) is the drawing showing the kickdown linkage and SU interconnecting linkages? I must be going blind or senile. I just don't seem to be able to find any drawings of carby-related linkages that aren't actually part of the carby.
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Post by johnwp5bcoupe on Oct 13, 2007 5:49:13 GMT
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Post by Warwick (Ozcoupe) on Oct 13, 2007 7:14:02 GMT
Aren't digital cameras wonderful!! Imagine what this "conversation" would have been like 25 years ago using a teleprinter, and having to keep explaining politely to the punch-tape operator in the typing pool that "No, you can't abreviate that or it won't make sense."
I thought something didn't add up. If this photo is your car John, then I don't know what I have on mine. I can see you sitting there banging your head on the keyboard and muttering in Geordie "Haven't I answered this already!!"
My description was probably confusing. I'll try again. My cable ends facing straight up behind the engine between the back of the block and the bulkhead. It's behind the rear end of the LH cylinder head. Very difficult to see unless I remove the air-cleaner and LH intake elbow. It pulls down on a lever on the end of a shaft that runs forward along the top of the inlet manifold and parallel with the inside edge of the LH rocker-cover. The forward end of that shaft is about where your cable clevis is in your photo.
Does that then mean I have a long cable if yours is the short one? And if that is the case, why does the long one end closer to the gearbox?
And when does "late model" start?
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Post by johnwp5bcoupe on Oct 13, 2007 7:26:35 GMT
OHHHH Boy as far as I know Warwick the long cable is connected on the driver side via some linkage with a plastic bush which wears out!! I cant comment as I haven't seen one and there is the short one like mine as per the picture and as far as I know this was the only way the short one was fitted I am trying to picture your installation it's a bit like turning your back to the blackboard and asking someone to draw a picture the cable should pull up not down or at least pull somehow
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Post by Deleted on Oct 13, 2007 7:44:12 GMT
You are all wrong. The SHORT cable goes to the rear of the head and the LONG one goes to the carb. This is indicated in the door pillar body number prefix. A, Long , B, Short . There may be a C as well. The engine might have the same letter as a suffix.
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Post by Warwick (Ozcoupe) on Oct 13, 2007 7:45:02 GMT
Ah, now we're getting somewhere. I don't feel like I'm slow on the up-take now. I'm allowed to be confused if you're confused.
I must have one of the rare Morris Marina conversions carried out by Leyland Australia when they were trying to empty their parts bins.
There's only one solution. I'll remove the aircleaner in the morning and take some photos.
Thanks.
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Post by Warwick (Ozcoupe) on Oct 13, 2007 7:51:28 GMT
Ah ha! Thanks Humphrey.
Is there a chassis number prefix? Another thing to check tomorrow. My chassis suffix is D and the engine suffix is C.
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Post by Phil Nottingham on Oct 13, 2007 8:22:44 GMT
Note that there are two lengths of the later short cable that terminates at the back of the block. Its best to get the cable that matches the gearbox type lable 7FU etc on side of box
The problem with auto boxes is that PO's or their garages do not always fit what was there before.
Even Rover in early 70's fitted different parts, including valves bodies with the more common D21 shift with the 2 position that kept the box in 1or 2 depending on load/speed instead of lockup.
Harvey is correct as is John - yours should have the short cables with nylon bush that causes a lot of trouble when it disppears
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Post by Warwick (Ozcoupe) on Oct 13, 2007 8:48:52 GMT
Thanks Phil. I can easily find and check the bushes in the morning, and get some photos. The label on the box can wait until I can get under the car. The new shed still has a loose dirt floor.
No wonder I was confused reading all the previous posts.
I presume PO is previous owner.
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