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Post by cyf on May 12, 2013 19:50:01 GMT
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Post by Dean Hovland on May 13, 2013 2:29:08 GMT
Hi Cyf
Are the fuel lines both rubber ? Do you have a picture of the clubs fuel pump service kit ?
my fuel pump has the numbers AC 22J3 0335 . Does anyone know , what size valves it would have ?
What causes vapour lock ?
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Post by cyf on May 13, 2013 6:59:05 GMT
Hi Dean,
When you say "both" fuel lines, you mean the hoses which go in and out of the pump?
I have n picture of the service kit, I didn't order one yet, but you can find it in the dedicated section
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Post by Dean Hovland on May 13, 2013 9:39:48 GMT
Yes both pipes , i believe one is supply and one fuel return.
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Post by Pete Collins on May 15, 2013 18:57:16 GMT
Hi Cyf
Yes reuse the rubber, should not be a problem.
What causes vapour lock ?
New fuel, petrol has changed over the years and is a lot more volitile than the fuel from the 60s and 70s.
Cyf, any questions about club parts just send me an email. I might miss a post on the forum.
Pete Collins
Club Spares
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Post by cyf on May 15, 2013 20:29:07 GMT
Thank you P5Pete
How do you remove the valves?
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Post by barryr on May 15, 2013 23:25:32 GMT
Cyf I think they are what we call "staked".
A small amount of metal is forced down to lock them in place. You would need to remove this with a grinder or some kind of scraper to free the valves. And you would need to re- stake afterwards with a sharp chisel or similar.
I remember looking at mine when I rebuilt it using the club supplied kit. As only the diaphragm had failed I decided to replace that only!
My only experience of staked joints was on a hardy-spicer prop uj many years ago. I did manage to replace it but said I'd never do it again!,
There are many wise men on here who may know otherwise but I think that's what I noted on mine.
Best regards
Barry
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Post by cyf on May 16, 2013 10:53:45 GMT
Thanks Barry,
When I looked at the WSM, I understood that it was the thing to do, but Ididn't understand how
Seems tricky to do. Does anyone have pictures of the process?
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Post by barryr on May 16, 2013 20:47:35 GMT
Hi Cyf, a very quick check on you tube reveals several staked in uj videos.
Maybe they would help?
I have to say I'm a big fan of you tube. Some videos are excellent and its like having your own training academy! Some are very bad as well though!
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Post by Pete Collins on May 17, 2013 5:46:35 GMT
Cyf I think they are what we call "staked". A small amount of metal is forced down to lock them in place. You would need to remove this with a grinder or some kind of scraper to free the valves. And you would need to re- stake afterwards with a sharp chisel or similar. I remember looking at mine when I rebuilt it using the club supplied kit. As only the diaphragm had failed I decided to replace that only! My only experience of staked joints was on a hardy-spicer prop uj many years ago. I did manage to replace it but said I'd never do it again!, There are many wise men on here who may know otherwise but I think that's what I noted on mine. Best regards Barry Barry is right, I have used a scraper to get the valves out but most people just replace the black oil seal as in photo 16 and and the bellows in photo's 13 and 14. |
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Post by cyf on May 20, 2013 13:55:44 GMT
Well, too bad to have them in the kit, pump open and not replace them, no?
watched some videos and understand how to do. Will I dare?
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Post by Welsh Warlock on May 20, 2013 14:42:19 GMT
Nothing to lose by having a go Cyf.
Compared to your engine building expoits it shouldn't play too much on your nerves.
Worst scenario: replace it with an electric pump.
ETA: Mke sure you check for wear on the botton of the rocker arm although if it was working alright when you took it off it should be OK especially with a new cam.
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Post by harvey on May 20, 2013 15:30:46 GMT
it should be OK especially with a new cam. It may be a new camshaft, but I doubt it will be a new fuel pump cam, as they're separate to the camshaft so it will most likely be the old one going on there. |
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Post by Welsh Warlock on May 20, 2013 20:00:57 GMT
Didn't know that Harvey. Thanks
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Post by guidedog on May 21, 2013 7:12:02 GMT
Hi Cyf Two years ago I rebuilt my fuel pump and there was no orange rubber washer in the repair kit. I asked Pete about them,. but there was no further comment about them. I ended up making a washer. The centre bolt I used a tap washer.
As it stands I think the repair from the club is incomplete. Good luck with you project I follow it with great interest.
Bob
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Post by johnwp5bcoupe on May 21, 2013 7:28:03 GMT
If it were me Cyf I wouldn't bother with a mechanical pump  |
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Post by norvin on May 21, 2013 8:13:19 GMT
cyf I agree with John fit an electric pump, this is mine that I fitted some time ago.  |
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Deleted Member
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Post by Deleted on May 21, 2013 10:10:57 GMT
I imported some pump overhaul kits a couple of years ago,they didn't include the large round bottom seal (orange in pics) either.Maybe they're not considered a service replacement part by the kit makers.
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Post by cyf on May 21, 2013 10:14:52 GMT
Thank you for your comments. In fact, the engine I 'm rebuilding already had an electric fuel pump, it's when Dean asked for pictures of the mechanic pump that I came to dismantled it and therefore rebuilding it, just for the fun of it I would say. Mechanic becomes a hobby  For eastmidsrep, here's a picture of the "teethed wheel" (I have not the right term) which operate the pump, it's at the end of the camshaft  |
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Post by Dean Hovland on May 21, 2013 10:37:32 GMT
Ive finally taken the fuel pump off my car the valves are 19mm so ive ordered a new service kit from JRW .
The mistakes i made ; i should have isolated the fuel supply from the tank . pulling the reserve tank lever didnt reduce the amount of fuel that came out.
Cyf how did you separate the bottom half of the fuel pump ,,, the part with gasket and spring?
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Post by norvin on May 21, 2013 11:09:50 GMT
cyf we must pay more ATTENTION.
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Post by petervdvelde on May 21, 2013 11:10:18 GMT
Norvin,
I see you fitted the Facet pump in the engine bay. Facet says "for best results mount the pump close to the fuel tank"
Because the fuel tank in a P5 is mounted rather high, fitting the pump in the engine bay may not have a negative impact
Regards
Peter
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Post by norvin on May 21, 2013 11:17:00 GMT
Peter that is correct what you say as the tank is so high up in the boot the petrol will siphon to the pump and the pump is low down.
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Post by cyf on May 21, 2013 13:39:28 GMT
Dean, I draw a little sketch  You have to: - compress the spring (green) A- prevent the arm to lift B with a screw driver SD- then try to put the valve (red) away from the hook (blue)  |
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Post by Dean Hovland on May 21, 2013 17:38:11 GMT
Thanks Cyf your a star .
How did you work that out ?
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