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Post by Dean Hovland on Dec 19, 2013 9:10:15 GMT
Has anyone changed there old alternator for a more modern one , your views , pointers and tips please ?
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Post by Deleted on Dec 19, 2013 14:07:52 GMT
Has anyone changed there old alternator for a more modern one , your views , pointers and tips please ? The standard Lucas 11AC is more than adequate unless your car is highly modified with additional unnecessary electrical drains like halogen lights, electric fans etc etc. The 11AC is well tried and tested and easy to rebuild. Why change it?!
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Post by Steve P5b on Dec 19, 2013 18:12:52 GMT
Has anyone changed there old alternator for a more modern one , your views , pointers and tips please ? Not so much "modern" but this will do the job at a very reasonable cost, simple to fit and only minor changes to the wiring. Replacement Alternator Lucas ACR Replacement Alternator - available with 45amp, 60amp or 80amp output This alternator replaces the standard Lucas alternator fitted to most English vehicles from 1960s onwards These units are direct replacements complete with fan and pulleys and will not require any modification to the vehicle Lucas alternators were produced in 2 versions - Left Hand Fitting and Right Hand Fitting Right Hand Fitting (ie the attatchment bracket is on the right-hand of the alternator when you are looking at the front pulley wheel) eg Mini, MG Midget, Lotus Elan, Lotus Elite, Lotus Eclat, Triumph Spitfire, Triumph GT6, Jaguar XJ6 to 1981, Ford Crossflow, Jensen Healey, Morgan 4/4 etc Left Hand Fitting (ie the attatchment bracket is on the left-hand of the alternator when you are looking at the front pulley wheel) eg Ford Pinto, Ford V6, Ford Escort Rs2000, Triumph TR7 etc If you order the wrong hand then its very easy to convert a left-hand unit to a right hand unit and vice versa: 1) Loosen the 3 bolts that hold the casing on (the casing is just a cover, its not sprung - nothing will jump out) 2) Turn the body around (there are only 2 possible positions, left or right hand) while holding the plastic end cap (the plastic end cap must not rotate) 3) Retorque the casing bolts Dimensions: Internal distance between mounting lug holes 88mm, external distance between mounting holes 108mm, (lug width 10mm each), adjusting mount lug width 10mm, pitch circle diameter between mounting and adjusting lugs 145mm What output size do we recommend for your vehicle? When vehicle manufacturers were gradually moving to alternator fitments (rather than dynamos) in the 1960s then 28amp was a common fitment. Moving into the 1970s when cars were more likely to be fitted with increased creature comforts such as more powerful heaters, two speed wipers, better lights then a 36amp or 45amp was a more common fitment. There is no disadvantage in having a more powerful alternator than you think you may need (apart from the initial cost), due to internal regulation your battery wont be overcharged it will just re-charge quicker and drain less, and allowing peace-of-mind for restarts if you had previously been driving with heater, wipers, lights etc all on at once. In the space where the relays were you can fit a nice safe power fuse holder to protect the main supply to the whole of the electrical system.
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Post by harvey on Dec 19, 2013 18:20:45 GMT
The ACR was fitted to the later P6B's but needs a different mounting bracket and fanbelt to fit it to the P5B.
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Post by Phil Nottingham on Dec 19, 2013 19:21:15 GMT
....and plenty on search from those who have and those who do not need to
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Post by petervdvelde on Dec 19, 2013 22:33:40 GMT
on my MGB v8 conversion, a SD1 V8 is fitted with a P5B alternator bracket and a new alternator which i bought with the V8 conversion compagny in the UK. I can check if there a brand on the alternator, please let me know. Here's a picture although i saw that the pulley were not lined up yet Peter
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Post by Colin McA on Dec 19, 2013 23:59:07 GMT
It is really easy to do. There was a good article written by Jim Walker many years ago for take five (November 2000). My old 11AC was working ok until I stripped it as part of my restoration and damaged it. Faced with the replacement cost I went for the conversion it made sense after looking at the price of the other parts like the 3aw. I managed to get a new 55amp Lucas A127/133 under the maestro part number for £20 delivered. The only thing I did was rotate the casing to match the P5B bracket. It is up to you but plenty of people have upgraded and plenty haven't, personal choice. Colin ebay link to A133 unit
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Post by Warwick on Dec 20, 2013 3:24:13 GMT
Mine has a Mitsubishi alternator fitted, by the previous owner. It looks like a drop-in fit; apart from the wiring.
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Post by Dean Hovland on Dec 20, 2013 7:28:29 GMT
It is really easy to do. There was a good article written by Jim Walker many years ago for take five (November 2000). My old 11AC was working ok until I stripped it as part of my restoration and damaged it. Faced with the replacement cost I went for the conversion it made sense after looking at the price of the other parts like the 3aw. I managed to get a new 55amp Lucas A127/133 under the maestro part number for £20 delivered. The only thing I did was rotate the casing to match the P5B bracket. It is up to you but plenty of people have upgraded and plenty haven't, personal choice. Colin ebay link to A133 unitThanks Colin , i sent the Ebay seller a message requesting a price on postage.
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Post by Dean Hovland on Dec 20, 2013 7:34:28 GMT
Has anyone changed there old alternator for a more modern one , your views , pointers and tips please ? Not so much "modern" but this will do the job at a very reasonable cost, simple to fit and only minor changes to the wiring. Replacement Alternator Lucas ACR Replacement Alternator - available with 45amp, 60amp or 80amp output This alternator replaces the standard Lucas alternator fitted to most English vehicles from 1960s onwards These units are direct replacements complete with fan and pulleys and will not require any modification to the vehicle Lucas alternators were produced in 2 versions - Left Hand Fitting and Right Hand Fitting Right Hand Fitting (ie the attatchment bracket is on the right-hand of the alternator when you are looking at the front pulley wheel) eg Mini, MG Midget, Lotus Elan, Lotus Elite, Lotus Eclat, Triumph Spitfire, Triumph GT6, Jaguar XJ6 to 1981, Ford Crossflow, Jensen Healey, Morgan 4/4 etc Left Hand Fitting (ie the attatchment bracket is on the left-hand of the alternator when you are looking at the front pulley wheel) eg Ford Pinto, Ford V6, Ford Escort Rs2000, Triumph TR7 etc If you order the wrong hand then its very easy to convert a left-hand unit to a right hand unit and vice versa: 1) Loosen the 3 bolts that hold the casing on (the casing is just a cover, its not sprung - nothing will jump out) 2) Turn the body around (there are only 2 possible positions, left or right hand) while holding the plastic end cap (the plastic end cap must not rotate) 3) Retorque the casing bolts Dimensions: Internal distance between mounting lug holes 88mm, external distance between mounting holes 108mm, (lug width 10mm each), adjusting mount lug width 10mm, pitch circle diameter between mounting and adjusting lugs 145mm What output size do we recommend for your vehicle? When vehicle manufacturers were gradually moving to alternator fitments (rather than dynamos) in the 1960s then 28amp was a common fitment. Moving into the 1970s when cars were more likely to be fitted with increased creature comforts such as more powerful heaters, two speed wipers, better lights then a 36amp or 45amp was a more common fitment. There is no disadvantage in having a more powerful alternator than you think you may need (apart from the initial cost), due to internal regulation your battery wont be overcharged it will just re-charge quicker and drain less, and allowing peace-of-mind for restarts if you had previously been driving with heater, wipers, lights etc all on at once. In the space where the relays were you can fit a nice safe power fuse holder to protect the main supply to the whole of the electrical system. Do you have this on your car Steve ?
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Post by Dean Hovland on Dec 20, 2013 8:38:13 GMT
Postage to Spain for the A133 alternator on EBAy ,, 21.50.
Dean
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Post by Steve P5b on Dec 20, 2013 8:46:13 GMT
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Post by Dean Hovland on Dec 20, 2013 12:44:12 GMT
Really nice job mate .
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Post by petervdvelde on Dec 21, 2013 12:30:52 GMT
Dean, Referring to your mail, hereby the specification from my Valeo alternator and the cars where this was fitted to. Its a alternator that i bought 16-17 years ago. Regards Peter
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Post by petervdvelde on Dec 21, 2013 12:32:05 GMT
Steve,
Very nice engine compartment!! Peter
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Post by Dean Hovland on Dec 22, 2013 8:13:51 GMT
Thank you Peter
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Post by vincentacres on Nov 30, 2014 9:39:42 GMT
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Post by Phil Nottingham on Nov 30, 2014 10:11:48 GMT
No experience about the A127 fitment but the regulators etc are just ignored and WL is wired direct by bridging the 3 pin square plug. The other 2 wire for the brushes at the old are just taped up out of the way or cut off
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Post by vincentacres on Nov 30, 2014 11:18:02 GMT
Thank you Phil. Pardon my ignorance but what is the best way to bridge the 3 pin square plug?
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Post by norvin on Nov 30, 2014 13:05:34 GMT
I would say it depends how you use your car if you use it only summer time and do not use the heater lights or any other electrical stuff that takes a lot of juice that you may have fitted then you may as well keep the standard set up.
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Post by Phil Nottingham on Nov 30, 2014 14:43:03 GMT
Either cut the plug off and join the coloured 2 wires together (ie NOT the the black) or fit an lead with male LUCAR ends across the 2 terminals
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Post by Colin McA on Dec 1, 2014 21:41:28 GMT
I removed all the redundant wiring as I have no intention on going back to an 11ac.
The fitting is very easy. with the warning liht all you need is the 12v coming from the alternator to the the warning light on the dash board.
You can use a multi meter to test the wire at the alternator to the warning light unit (ohms/continuity tets) you can also do the same with the wire to the dash board and earth.
Colin
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