Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Nov 10, 2006 15:14:40 GMT
Ok ive got a list of things i want to over the next few months and i was just after a bit of advice from your good selves really 1 Put electronic igniction in instead of points and condensor 2 Put an electronic fuel pump on 3 a new cam ive found this place that do them. www.jrwadhams.co.uk/home.htmthere are a choice of 2 the Standard cam OR a Uprated cam which is cheaper and give it a extra 20bhp 4 A Performance coil or should i just stick with a normall one? im not trying to make my p5 a racing car it just seams silly to get standerd stuff when you can get better and cheaper. Also i was doing a service and took the air filters off and found a hole in the right hand filter housing. when i look at it its been cut out because the heater control sits in this space!! so whats moved??? the enging to far back (carn't see that) or has the heter box and controlls been played with?? Im guessing this is not like it on all V8's is it Thankyou in advance
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Post by johnwp5bcoupe on Nov 10, 2006 16:46:37 GMT
I am sure you will get a few ideas about pumps! I mounted my Facet Pump on the cross member see pic :- i88.photobucket.com/albums/k163/johnwp5bcoupe/P1010150-2.jpgI fitted a SD1 timing cover which gave me the choice of two electronic distributors and coil change with the advantage of the higher output oil pump which if you are going to make the engine work harder is not a bad idea! you can fit a ignitor module in a standard distributor the choice is yours. I don't know why you want the extra BHP less fuel to the gallon more load on the engine! also where in the rev band will you achieve the extra BHP? not crusing at 50 to 70 mph! The last question I am lost on
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Post by Phil Nottingham on Nov 10, 2006 17:07:17 GMT
You should have a moulded rubber bung which seals the hole - if the cut out was not there the filter can could rattle on the heater valve in certain running conditions
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Nov 10, 2006 19:06:36 GMT
it does look like something was glued there at some point. i will have to have a look round and see if i can get anythuing to fit.
As for changing the cam i dont no what rpm it comes in at and i was only looking at the up rated one because its £50 cheaper.
As for the oil pump i will be doing that anyway it really need an engine flush then the sump removing and cleaning so will be doing the pump at the same time.
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Post by johnwp5bcoupe on Nov 10, 2006 19:39:52 GMT
The pump is not in the sump it's part of the timing cover the pickup and strainer are in the sump. I would be dubious about a re-profiled cam without knowing when it will be of use to you if at all? I would rather have a standard known cam as often when the cams are re-profiled they remove the rear of the lobe to achieve the lift at whatever point and case harden the cam! properly? maybe? is a good question, worth the extra £50 for a standard cam? for me yes.
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Post by stantondavies on Nov 10, 2006 23:27:35 GMT
What's the difference in the timings on the cams? Presumably the up-rated cam increases the time the valves are open giving more power but making the engine less torquey and more "lumpy" in the process. I assume it must come from another variant of the V8 engine and may be cheaper because it is in mass production? Do you know its provenance? Depends what you want in the end, more power or a smoother engine with more torque. Don't forget the insurance implications with a modified engine.
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Post by johnwp5bcoupe on Nov 11, 2006 8:26:38 GMT
Normally the increase in power is gained at the top of the rev range which is where you don't really want it with the valves staying open longer with more lift possibly so many variations! depending on how the lobes are cut? your correct Stanton with a P5b torque is more of an advantage to the old girls than extra umph at high revs.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Nov 12, 2006 9:43:40 GMT
well thanx for all your help lads. So u guess the out come really is :
Do the fuel pump no prob, the coil and the electronic iginction but just put a standerd Cam back in her.
Thas cool
thanx for your help again.
tony
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Post by jimjam on Nov 28, 2006 19:59:36 GMT
Sorry to but in on this thread but the camshaft in the standard Rover V8 as fitted to the P5b is a very conservative item in both lift and duration. Remember that the Rover was in it's infancy back then and a lot of people have spent a lot of time in producing new grinds since.
You can move the torque and power bands all over the place with a change of cam so a replacement can be a big benefit in say the mid-range. I'm sure if it's being offered by a Rover specialist it'll be a cam designed to improve the torque characteristic of the engine not 20bhp at 7,000rpm! Most of the aftermarket cams were designed to be used in Range Rovers.
What you do need to consider is whether you need to upgrade any of the other valve gear. If I were you i'd talk to someone like RPI (www.rpiv8.com) as they have vast experience in this area.
Remember to get the most out of a cam change you should also look at getting your carbs tuned as well.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Nov 28, 2006 22:46:00 GMT
thanx for the advice Jimjam u will contact ripv8 in the week.
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10mpg
Rover Rookie
Posts: 65
Location: Bradfield berkshire
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Post by 10mpg on Nov 30, 2006 19:55:04 GMT
Sorry to but in on this thread but the camshaft in the standard Rover V8 as fitted to the P5b is a very conservative item in both lift and duration. Remember that the Rover was in it's infancy back then and a lot of people have spent a lot of time in producing new grinds since. You can move the torque and power bands all over the place with a change of cam so a replacement can be a big benefit in say the mid-range. I'm sure if it's being offered by a Rover specialist it'll be a cam designed to improve the torque characteristic of the engine not 20bhp at 7,000rpm! Most of the aftermarket cams were designed to be used in Range Rovers. What you do need to consider is whether you need to upgrade any of the other valve gear. If I were you i'd talk to someone like RPI (www.rpiv8.com) as they have vast experience in this area. Remember to get the most out of a cam change you should also look at getting your carbs tuned as well. Definatly agree with all the above ask and check what you are told about the chacteristics of the cam, the stadard cam as said is very conservative and you can go a log way into performance cams befor you get a 'cammy' engine and a bad idle. I would go for a cam that suits your usage best work out at what speed your car is used most and get a cam that gives peak torque at that RPM. The cam you are being offered I might take a guess at being a 3.9 item as it fits straight in and gives you a little more grunt (more like 10bhp in the real world) and yes these are often cheaper than the 3.5 item. and will not detract from the sweet running of your engine one iota.
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Post by PatMcCoy on Dec 1, 2006 2:15:54 GMT
Don't forget to try Real Steel Very helpfull and It aint far from you
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