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Post by Deleted on Sept 26, 2014 14:42:16 GMT
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Post by Simon H on Sept 26, 2014 17:12:26 GMT
I'm fairly sure that these are the bearings. HERE They are certainly the ones sold by other Rover specialists on fleabay. The number 88128-r is what will make sense to bearing stockists. A lot of 50s/60s/70s Yank stuff seems to use the same bearings and as you'd expect they are cheap as chips over there. Obviously you'd still need to source spacers and seals... But if they are the same as early Series Landies there may be another, cheaper avenue to go down to find them... |
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Post by Deleted on Sept 26, 2014 20:28:32 GMT
I'm fairly sure that these are the bearings. HERE They are certainly the ones sold by other Rover specialists on fleabay. The number 88128-r is what will make sense to bearing stockists. A lot of 50s/60s/70s Yank stuff seems to use the same bearings and as you'd expect they are cheap as chips over there. Obviously you'd still need to source spacers and seals... But if they are the same as early Series Landies there may be another, cheaper avenue to go down to find them... Very likely and that's the sort of price I was thinking of. Once you know the serial numbers, it's easy to source a bearing thanks to the standardised international system of numbering and there are many very helpful bearing suppliers in the UK. To ask £190 for two bearings is outrageous and greedy but check out some of their other items to get the general idea. |
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Post by Simon H on Sept 26, 2014 22:20:27 GMT
I've already seen the stuff the £190 merchant sells. Bearings are just bearings. There are very, very few 'unique' bearings for cars before the 1980's. Same goes for oil seals. Spacers and collars may vary as they were easy and cheap to make...
When I played with Suzuki SJ jeeps in the 1990's rear wheel bearings were 'dealer only' items at about £35 apiece. I managed to remove one without breaking it and our local bearing supplier identified it as a 6207-r, (no ID numbers on the factory item) a very common standard bearing retailing at about £3... (then). The retaining collar that also forms the inner sealing surface for the oil seal turned out to be a standard size inner race for a needle roller bearing, also cheap as chips. I'm sure it will be the same for our Rovers if anyone cares to delve deep enough.
I accept that some 'new old stock' items are exactly that. And you have to pay the premium or do without. But to excessively inflate the price of everyday industrial items like bearings and advertise them as if they are the last ones on Earth is just wrong.
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Post by djm16 on Sept 27, 2014 2:48:10 GMT
I echo the feelings above. Take the bearing to a specialist bearing supplier and get a genuine Timken, SKF, Hardy Spicer (if it is a UJ).
The following does not apply to your usual Rover P4 / P5 parts suppliers, but when I used to run a Morris Minor I wasted a lot of time and money replacing rear wheel bearings and seals with "kits" from MM parts suppliers. They used to last 5,000 miles. The penny eventually dropped and when I replaced them with quality parts from a specialist shop I had no more trouble and parted with the car 95,000 miles later.
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Post by Smallfry on Sept 28, 2014 7:31:19 GMT
Always makes me laugh.......this sellers prices
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Post by Jens Munk on Sept 30, 2014 19:19:28 GMT
Always take eBay items with a grain of salt. Especially new items. There are always entrepreneurs who buy items at normal prices in normal stores and put them on eBay as super rare special deals. Always check regular suppliers, JRW, Amazon etc. I am normally very critical and careful myself but nevertheless recently fell in and bought a "bargain" set of NOS side marker lenses for my P5B on eBay. Well, after I received them I realised I could have gotten the full lights for the same price from JRW as I paid for just the lenses on eBay.  Jens. |
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Post by Deleted on Aug 12, 2015 20:00:09 GMT
I might be renewing a grumbling bearing in the future. Is it possible to change these without the rover special tools?.
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Post by petervdvelde on Aug 12, 2015 21:00:31 GMT
I replaced my rear wheel bearings with a press and acetylene torch for heating up the spacer during removal of the old spacer. A spare brake drum is helpful to avoid that the threads for the wheel nuts are being pushed out but i remember that Phil cracked a brake drum using it when pressing on a new collar.
Peter
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Post by Deleted on Aug 13, 2015 9:20:58 GMT
Thanks for the advice chaps. I dont have a press although i can borrow a 100 ton jobby at a pals garage. I might see if I can make something to do the job or even buy a couple of complete half shafts to practice on.
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Post by Deleted on Aug 13, 2015 17:01:53 GMT
Im not in the rover club.Ive decided to buy a complete shaft and make a puller.It wont be for some time,since I decided to work part time Ive never been so busy.
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Post by Phil Nottingham on Aug 13, 2015 18:06:31 GMT
Who is this "well known" Ebay supplier ie his real name? A 10 press will remove the collar with suitable press blocks. Note cold chisel marks where some bodge up mechanic had been before. The bearing failed Attachment Deleted |
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Post by Deleted on Aug 14, 2015 8:56:32 GMT
Thanks for the pic Phil.
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Post by gingerbeer62 on Aug 14, 2015 13:49:33 GMT
Who is this "well known" Ebay supplier ie his real name? A 10 press will remove the collar with suitable press blocks. Note cold chisel marks where some bodge up mechanic had been before. The bearing failed Jealous of your press. Having done a few bearings in my life I think you will find that the marks are metal "tear marks" not chisel. I have in the past resorted to angle grinding a bearing off the shaft by cutting the outer bit off and then grinding the inner race down until it's very thin. It will then split and you can knock it off. Cheers Colin |
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Post by Phil Nottingham on Aug 14, 2015 17:50:20 GMT
Attachment DeletedIf you are ultra careful you can grind through the collar BUT if you even touch the half shaft it will create a stress point which may cause it to fail ie break in two sometimes loosing the wheel. Rover used this system from 1938 and it is the same setup (and bearing) on our P2. It was used on S1 LR's and P3/P4's as well
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It's also a confusing sale as they seem to be suggesting that four bearings are needed for an axle set. There's only one bearing per side. 
