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Post by harvey on Apr 9, 2015 21:42:06 GMT
Why does the gearbox not change gear this nicely when driving normally? My very first post in this thread answering your original question: Kickdown cable adjustment.
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Post by enigmas on Apr 9, 2015 22:25:01 GMT
When you lift your foot off the throttle you're reducing pressure to the circuits...it's called "light footing", it's actually quite a good way to drive as it's gentle on the box. Driving with your foot hard into the throttle extends shifts and holds onto a particular gear (1st & 2nd) before a shift occurs. If it's clunking when you slowly drop the speed back to a 'walking' pace, there's too much pressure...so wind back the cable a couple of turns and test the car again. Fluid (ATF) temperature does affect the shift quality, so ensure the car and gearbox is properly warmed before making assessments, i.e., standardize your test procedures.
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Post by p5rover on Apr 12, 2015 19:31:46 GMT
Why does the gearbox not change gear this nicely when driving normally? My very first post in this thread answering your original question: Kickdown cable adjustment. Thanks Harvey, I thought that I may have another problem with the gearbox, as I have slackened off the cable and its still the same. I will try to slacken it off a bit more, can it cause any damage if I slacken it off to much?
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Post by harvey on Apr 12, 2015 19:54:43 GMT
can it cause any damage if I slacken it off to much? If it's too slack over a long period then it will cause problems, but in the short term (ie adjusting and testing) it shouldn't. If you want to prove the point you could disconnect the cable and roadtest it using very light throttle and you should find that it changes up really early. If it doesn't then it's a governor problem.
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Post by p5rover on Apr 23, 2015 20:54:41 GMT
I have adjusted the cable as best I can and have renewed the fluid and filter and have been using the car a lot more, the gear change does seem to be getting better, it now changes up at the right speed, the only thing I can fault is that the gear change into 2nd gear is not as nice as the change into 3rd. Is there any adjustment I can make to fix this?
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Post by harvey on Apr 23, 2015 21:54:03 GMT
the only thing I can fault is that the gear change into 2nd gear is not as nice as the change into 3rd. Is there any adjustment I can make to fix this? The only thing you could look at that might possibly improve just the 1-2 change would be to check the front band adjustment, but that would involve dropping the sump again.
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Post by p5rover on Apr 24, 2015 6:21:36 GMT
Think i will clock up a few more miles first and then drop the fluid/sump again. Any tips on adjusting the front band? is it easy to do? are there any special tools needed?
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Post by harvey on Apr 24, 2015 15:31:46 GMT
Think i will clock up a few more miles first and then drop the fluid/sump again. Any tips on adjusting the front band? is it easy to do? are there any special tools needed? Probably wise to get some miles under its belt before going back in again, it may cure itself with a bit of use. You may find you have a self adjusting front servo anyway, and unlike most self adjusting mechanisms they do work. If it's manually adjusted you'll need a very low reading torque wrench, or a 2" long spanner and a spring balance that goes 0-10lbs, as the setting is 10lb in, so you pull down to 5lbs on the 2" spanner. There should be a 1/4" spacer inserted before torqueing up, but you can torque up without it, and then back off the adjuster 4 full turns..
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Post by p5rover on Jul 20, 2015 19:20:56 GMT
Hi Harvey, I will be having a go at adjusting the front band within the next few days(if I get time) I have another question, if I find that I have a self adjusting front servo, is the adjusting procedure the same?
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Post by harvey on Jul 20, 2015 20:01:35 GMT
Hi Harvey, I will be having a go at adjusting the front band within the next few days(if I get time) I have another question, if I find that I have a self adjusting front servo, is the adjusting procedure the same? The setting procedure is the same, you just have to get the spring on the adjuster in the correct position so that it adjusts itself. I'd suggest a look in the WM manual as that will show and tell you how to position the spring better than I can. Basically the spring should be wound back from fully on by a couple of turns and the tail of the spring must be in the slider bracket groove.
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Post by p5rover on Jul 20, 2015 20:44:23 GMT
Thanks, I have looked in the workshop manual but could only see the adjusting procedure for the non self adjusting servo.
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Post by p5rover on Nov 7, 2015 17:31:16 GMT
Thought i would update this thread. After re building my carburettors and fitting them back on, my gear change is now perfect, I can hardly notice it changing through the gears! the only other thing I done was renew this bushing (mine was missing)
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