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Post by p5rover on Mar 22, 2015 20:09:51 GMT
Hi, I have a 1972 rover p5b that I have just recently bought, I 'm currently sorting out all the little faults. One of the faults is the gearbox, when going through the gears it seams to take to long to change up a gear, and when it does its not a very smooth change, but if i drive with a lead foot the gear change is a lot smoother. What could cause this?
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Post by harvey on Mar 22, 2015 20:28:43 GMT
Kickdown cable adjustment. It sounds as though the pressures are too high. If you can trigger the upshift by lifting off the throttle that would tend to confirm this, as would harsh engagement of drive, and a clonk on the 2-1 downshift with a closed throttle. You would need to wind the adjuster on the outer cable towards the carbs. (ie, upwards if it's got the short cable at the rear of the N/S cylinder head.
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Post by p5rover on Mar 22, 2015 21:45:42 GMT
Hi Harvey, annoyingly it does seam to change up when backing off the throttle some times, and it did clonk into 1st when stopping quickly today at traffic lights. I didn't realise that cable at the rear of the passenger side cylinder head was to do with the kick down! as before I took the car for its MOT I had a good look around making sure everything looked good and secure, and I remember that cable at the rear of the cylinder head was just loose and was not locked to its fixing bracket by the 2 locking nuts, at the time I just thought it was the choke cable and I just tightened the 2 nuts in any position. Are you saying I should move the 2 locking nuts as far as they will go to the end of there thread? to take as much slack out of the cable as possible?
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Post by harvey on Mar 22, 2015 22:27:42 GMT
You need to adjust the outer cable so that there is no slack on the inner cable, but it's not so tight that it holds the valve open inside the gearbox. (Which is what is happening as it is now).
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Post by p5rover on Mar 23, 2015 16:55:59 GMT
Thanks for your help, I have just tried to adjust the cable as you said, but there is a little brass bit crimped onto the cable which is holding the tension on the cable. Not sure what to do now, should I remove the brass bit to take the pressure off the cable?
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Post by harvey on Mar 23, 2015 16:59:27 GMT
If the crimp on the inner cable is resting on the top of the adjuster, then you won't be able to lower the pressure any further as it is, so if the problem is still there, you'll have to cut the crimp off. Most of the time, as it would appear to be in this case, the crimps get put on in the wrong place anyway.
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Post by p5rover on Mar 23, 2015 19:29:00 GMT
I removed the crimp from the cable but I also managed to damage the cable while doing it(cable was already a bit frayed) so now its binding badly in the casing and sticking, so it looks like I will have to order a new cable and try again! is it an easy job changing the cable? and where is the best place to get one from? Also when I take the sump off I will clean the oil filter while i'm at it, is the filter cleanable? or is it best to buy new?
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Post by harvey on Mar 23, 2015 19:47:51 GMT
I removed the crimp from the cable but I also managed to damage the cable while doing it(cable was already a bit frayed) so now its binding badly in the casing and sticking, so it looks like I will have to order a new cable and try again! is it an easy job changing the cable? and where is the best place to get one from? Also when I take the sump off I will clean the oil filter while i'm at it, is the filter cleanable? or is it best to buy new? If it was frayed already that's not so bad, it needed replacing anyway, and any fraying of the inner cable inside the outer sheath could be making it stick. J R Wadham does the cables, as do www.jpat.co.uk/ but they will want your one as a pattern. Fitting isn't too bad, it's fiddley, but do-able, just be careful not to crossthread the cable in the casing. You can set the new cable adjustment up while the sump is off. There are two types of filter, and you won't know what one you need until you can see it. They can be cleaned though, providing the gasket doesn't get damaged while you do it. If it does you might as well get a filter as well. |
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Post by p5rover on Mar 23, 2015 20:24:59 GMT
Thanks Harvey, I have just looked on the wadhams site and it looks like there is two different length cables, so I think my next job is to remove the cable and the oil filter to find out what I need.
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Post by harvey on Mar 23, 2015 20:27:21 GMT
Thanks Harvey, I have just looked on the wadhams site and it looks like there is two different length cables, so I think my next job is to remove the cable and the oil filter to find out what I need. If the cable goes to the bracket on the rear of the head, you need the short cable. |
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Post by p5rover on Mar 23, 2015 20:52:24 GMT
That's music to my ears, because the shorter one is about £20 less  I will still remove the cable tomorrow before I order anything just to make sure. |
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Post by p5rover on Mar 25, 2015 21:14:28 GMT
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Post by harvey on Mar 25, 2015 21:50:00 GMT
You need the right cable for the car. You could take your old one off and send it to JPAT and they will make one to match.
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Post by p5rover on Mar 25, 2015 22:13:54 GMT
Will the fact that I have removed the crimp make any difference? as I am guessing the reason you have to send your old one in, is so they can put the crimp in the same position?
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Post by harvey on Mar 25, 2015 22:17:35 GMT
Forget the crimp. The only reason they need the old cable is to match the lengths of the inner and outer cables, and the end fittings. You can't set the crimp until the cable is fitted. Give them a call and see what they say.
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Post by p5rover on Mar 25, 2015 22:36:32 GMT
Thanks, will give them a call tomorrow.
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Post by richardlamsdale on Mar 26, 2015 23:19:04 GMT
I've never fully understood the purpose of the crimp - is it just a reference for setting the cable adjuster, or does it perform some other function as well? My crimp fell off, but kick-down seems to work perfectly.
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Post by eightofthem (Andy) on Mar 27, 2015 7:03:04 GMT
The crimp is set to take the slack out of the inner cable, to set it correctly, you have to see the kick down cam, which means taking off the sump.
It stops cable that does not need to go back into the outer sleeve from going backwards any further, in other words the kick down cam is just at the point where any outward movement of the inner cable will start to move the kick down cam, without any slack being taken up first which would effect performance.
You can do it by feel, basically it allows optimum performance of the kick down cable and cam,and throttle valve, but it will only be as good as the rest of the throttle links and bushes.
Think of it like adjusting your handbrake, you need the shoes at a point where they do not bind on the drum, but close enough to impact on the drum when you operate the handbrake lever.
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Post by Warwick on Mar 27, 2015 7:17:35 GMT
Thanks Andy. Nicely explained.
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Post by p5rover on Mar 29, 2015 17:48:29 GMT
I tried to remove the old kick down cable today, as I will be sending it off to get a new one made, but I could not undo it where it screws into the gearbox case, I could not seem to get any spanner to fit!(doing this on my back) and the fact that I don't know what size the nut is makes it even harder! I also could not remove the cable where it joins the linkage under the bonnet, I could not see any clip holding it on, but it would not come out. |
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Post by p5rover on Mar 29, 2015 18:56:59 GMT
Just removed the cable from the engine bay end, just gave it a good smack and it popped out, was only held in with rust! just need to know the size of the nut at the gearbox end if anyone knows?
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Post by eightofthem (Andy) on Mar 29, 2015 19:06:05 GMT
3/4 .
You might need to bend one a bit.
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Post by p5rover on Mar 29, 2015 20:15:56 GMT
Thanks, I will have another go at it tomorrow.
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Post by p5rover on Apr 1, 2015 12:48:44 GMT
I now have my new cable  but i have just tried fitting it and I can't get it back on! due to the angle you have to hold the cable at when trying to screw it back into the gearbox, is there any easy way of doing this? |
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Post by p5rover on Apr 1, 2015 19:41:22 GMT
Also I noticed when fitting the sump back on that the pipes in the gearbox touch the bottom of the sump, should this happen? or do I need a thicker gasket. |
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I will still remove the cable tomorrow before I order anything just to make sure.
but i have just tried fitting it and I can't get it back on! due to the angle you have to hold the cable at when trying to screw it back into the gearbox, is there any easy way of doing this?